EuroDat

Hi Mike, It makes sense to me, Id be interested in the standard Z nose covers. I have always wanted them, but have not dared to take the plunge on a 30year old set for 1000 bucks. All plastics deteriorate through UV and age. A repro set wouldnt have that problem. Chas

Mike. There is a company making SS bumpers for the 240z. I have spoke to them in the UK, but they dont make the Bumperettes and dont plan to. Bumperettes are hard to come by nowadays and there probably would be a market for that. Chas

Victor reinz gasket material will do fine. Just dont use the thick sheets like 2.5 en 3.2mm. The 1.0mm is best for the diff cover gasket. Chas

Its easy to make with good quality gasket paper. Just fix the cover using the mustache bar studs in a bench vice (with jaw gaurds). Use the ball of a hammer and gently tap around the holes and inside of the cover. The sharp edges of the cover will cut through the paper material. The excess on the outside can be cleanly cut off when the cover is mounted. That should get you on your way. Sucess with your project.

Hi again, Like Stieunseen mentioned in post #42. The resistor tweak in the temp sensor loop is a great way to adjust the fuel air ratio on the OEM efi. Some people play with the spring in the AFM to richen the mixture. It works well a low to medium air flows but leans out when the flap fully opens too early and you haven't reached full throttle. Unfortunately your problem is a rich mixture and the resistor tweak is to compensate a lean mixture. THe injector open time decreases as the resistance decreases. Therefore if you increase resistance you will increase injection time and richen the mixture. You will need to find the problem first and then use this mod to fine tune your mixture to pass smog. Chas

Hi Samson, Just a quick run down on how the fuel pressure works. The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel pressure by reading the vacuum. That way the injectors always have the right differential pressure over the nozzles. Eg: At idle you have high vacuum and therfore you need lower fuel pressure, at full throttle / full load you have very little vacuum and therefore higher pressure in the fuel system. The system wants to maintain around 35 psi across the injector nozzles. The ecu works on a time basis pulsing the injectors. A higher differential pressure will give more fuel, but the ecu cant calulate this because it doesnt read the fuel and vacuum pressure. Thats why you do an initial test with vacuum hose disconnected or turn ignition on and open the afm via the aircleaner the simulate air flow. The pump will then run and should read around 36 psi. Chas

Hi Ben, Ouch, thats a dam pricey paper weight. Hope you have better luck with the P90A. Its a pitty youcan not get the hydraulic units for the P90A head. They ran very quiet and smooth. Goodluck with it, maybe 2013 is your lucky year Chas

Hi Mike, Like I said, Im still in the research phase of things. I Still have some test lenses in a bucket with a uv lamp to check if its long term uv stable. My pressure chamber is coming along ok, just tweaking the temperature and pressure control. Originally its was my intention to produce one set, but to make extra lenses for others in the Z community wont be a problem. When the time comes, Ill start a post. Looking at the headlight lens covers. Id be interested in a set. Always wanted them, but cant justify the $1200 plus for good condition and sometimes even slighlty damaged. Chas

Hey Hardway, Seen this post and thought of your effort straight away, but you already beat me to it. Your effort with the trees in post#17 is priceless;) Bonus points for making do and Ingenuity:bulb: Chas

I have made the JDM taillight lenses for my 280Z. When I pulled the lenses apart to do the LED mod I decided to try to make a lens. Now thinking about changing to 240Z taillights. After a lot of trying and improving I got the technique up to the quality I wanted. It was a long road getting there and almost the same cost as a set on ebay. Vacuum pump, heated pressure chamber for post curing and all the resins and dud moulds. I have not really thought about making more as yet.

Maybe the fusable link holder. You can get the covers, but the black plastic holder is no longer available. If fusable link spade terminals get corroded they get heat the terminal and melt part of the plastic (like mine). The rubber insulators on the fuel/brake line under the car. I have not seen them in a long while.

Hi Tom, I discovered, after the first couple of bushes, was to just heat the outside metal while holding and trying to turn the inner tube with vice grips until the rubber lets go. They came out almost clean. Worked a charm on the lower control arm bushes. Very little smoke and fumes. Chas

Like they say, Practice makes perfect. In your case, it wiil be a perfect Z;) Its part of hobbying. I think we have all been there somewhere in the restoration process.

Ouch, looks like he was trying to make some sort of home made camber adjustment. If you dont want to go over to adjustable camber plates you could restore the original settings. Maybe something wrong with the camber and he done that to correct it? I would then make three plates (3mm) big enough to cover the holes with the correct hole (9.0mm) for the stud. Fit them on the studs and assemble it with the big washers temporary on top. The plates under the frame and the washers on top. Then get the wheel alignment (camber) checked. Once thats done, while the car is on the ground, remove one nut/big washer at a time and tack the plate with a welder. Repeat this on all three studs and then the other strut. Drop the struts and fill the groove made by the PO with weld and grind it back smooth. Make sure you drop the struts away from the area you want to weld otherwise you will burn the insulator on the strut. Its a bit of work, but you will have the correct camber and be back to original. Chas

Spindle pins; I think the Datsun engineersmade them off ceter just to annoy home mechanics. As for Haynes manual. The bin I say. I had one with a photo of a gear in a tranny and I was sure it went the other way only to realise long after I was right and the manual was wrong.

Firkin was an old english fluid measurement. Back in the nighties there was a botique brewery called Firkin and they had a string of pubs all with names ending with Firkin and a catchy jingle to go with it Frog & Firkin: Frog god sake get me another Firkin pint Phoenix & Firkin: Phoenix my pint Ill Firkin thump him And so it goes The brewery has closed and the pubs have all changed names in Londen. You do find the names in other countries though. Like I said, times gone by. We where in Londen and a project extending the Jubilee line from Charing Cross under the Themes to Elephant & Castle back to the Docklands light railway. Spending most of my money enjoying Londen.

Blue, Diseazd, Why did you guys buy two of them? Wasnt the first one bad enough?:stupid: Looking at the photo, she must of went with a bang. Your lucky it didnt damage anything else while it was disintegrating.

Its going back awhile but we use to grab fish & chips with vinigar (rapped in a newspaper) in a pub called "the spotted dog" in Wilsden Green before heading of to the Frog & Firkin in Bristol. Ive heard the Frog is now a Russian restaurant called Babushka or something like that. Good old times living in Londen. Chas

If you are running standard OEM fuel injection you would be better off rebuilding your own engine. Not much point changing to a big cam and such without going aftermarket FI like MegaSquirt II etc. Just my 2 cents worth.

Read this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105897-l28s-from-datsun-parts-ebay-store/?hl=datsun+parts+llc#entry991666 Then its up to you, I would look elsewhere. Chas

I second rcb280z. Otherwise you can get seriously bogged down in the "while Im at it" scenario, Unless your planning a ground-up rebuild ofcource. It can be hard to ignore the old line when you see the new ones next to them. Youdid a great job on bending the tubing. Looks spot on. Chas

Good to hear your making progress and goodluck with your finals:classic: Like to see your photos. I post my photos in my album in my profile. In the forum they seem to get lost amongst all the other post and hard to find.

I dont know why poeple replace fusable links with fuses, unless the base holder is melted or damaged in some way. They ar still available and I carry spares (old originals and extra new set) just in case. If you did change to fuses then you should use "slow blow" or also commonly known as anti-surge fuses. I have a 77 280Z. Like the photo in the atlanticz link in post #1 my sticker is ??? ( IGN (G). Anyone know where you can get these "fusable link holder" stickers? Chas

My left side was weeping a bit so I just popped them out and replaced them. It will look good when its finished. I finishec my rear end a couple of months ago and now buzy with the front and the 240Z bumpers. Chas

Just seen your foto on the alternator question (E) . The White/red wire goes on the terminal marked Active (A) on later models its (BAT). The Black wire goes to the ground (E) Earth terminal. The photo with the starter motor, I think that is question (G) is a ground wire for the chassis. You need to check the Coil wiring. The balast resistor is not wired correctly. Its a lot different to the 280Z. Have you tried the FSM. You can download it from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html. That should help you with the wiring. Looking at the photo of the starter motor. The car looks really good from what I can see. Can you post more photos?