EuroDat

Your question G) about the check valve. The check valve is there to hold vacuum in the brake booster when under full throttle and heavy loads. Thats when the engine manifold has little vacuum. This way it can maintain regular high vacuum under different engine manifold vacuum conditions. The arrow should point to the engine. Thats the direction of flow. Chas

The T5 is considered the better of the two. I went for a 300ZX © transmission and change the bell housing to fit it to the L28. That is a third option, but its a little more work and you need to dismantle the transmissions to do so or have it done. Here is a blog explaining about it. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 Chas

"Nice dent in the quarter - a neighbor kicked it when I had it out of the garage when I was moving a few years ago. Lame." Was he angry because you where leaving and he would miss his neighbor? Looks like a nice car to start with. They all have something at this stage in life. A car cant be around for 40 odd years and not show some sign of wear and tear. How are the floors and wheel well for rust. Thats the places where water can sit and do its dirty work. Good luck with your contest Chas

Blue, Shame on you. Didnt you know that Zeds are becoming an endangered spieces and the ones that still survive do so because they have learned to hibinate in winter. Now give that poor Z a nice warm garage to sleep in or we will have to report you for cruelty to Zeds.LOLLOL Now all jokes aside; Merry christmas to everyone and enjoy the festive season. Dont like talking about the weather, but since you guys downunder are braggin about it. Here its rainy, dark, cold and muddy. Thats the price for living 1 metre under sea level, I guess. Chas

Nice chrissy pres for your Z. Ps, like the grubby ford ad under the diffLOL Merry christmas Chas

My sentiments exactly. At work I can make the trim in stainless steel and polish it to 0,4 uM, but the very thin clear plastic is hard to duplicate with any quality.:mad: I have been trying to make taillight lenses, but the results are not up to what I want. Now working on a pressure chamber to post cue the PU 4barG @70degC for 6 hours. Also have a lens in a bucket with a uv lamp from a pond filter unit to simulate years of uv exposure. Its been two months and holding well. But like you said, I would have spent less just buying the euro taillights. Its a hobby, maybe ill post my results when Im finished playing around:D

Nice covers, but one is damage. Cant believe he is asking $925. Are these thing that rare? http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-432-HEADLIGHT-COVERS-CHROME-TRIM-RINGS-OEM-BRE-/150921862476?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2323a4dd4c&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Original-JDM-OEM-Datsun-s30-240Z-260Z-280Z-Headlight-Cover-Chrome-Trimmed-/390504626665?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aebe3b9e9&vxp=mtr

Great videos . When he was finished he probably felt like he done a days work on a jackhammer. Dam bumpy ride.

Welcome to the club ragt20. You will find the members friendly and always helpfull especially when you start looking for a new hobby (Z project) There are a threw guys from the UK on this forum. This club (forum) is a lot more active than the clubs in the UK and Europe. Enjoy Chas

Looks like they had a lot of series I parts over when they started the series II and used the parts until stock was finished. Or maybe the parts supliers didnt have the new parts ready in time through logistical or communication issues bla bla.

Zed, you beat me to it. I was just going to post the length of my shaft at 565mm. Thats the long one. Chas

I wouldnt touch the inside. One thing to keep in mind, the filter is a bypass filter. You will probably dislodge a lot of sludge. Once the engine speeds up its starts bypassing the filter even more. The higher volume of oil sucks in the sludge and stuff in and that can bypass the filter and go straight thru the bearings. NOT good. What your trying to do is mostly cosmetic and the damage could outweigh the benifit. Sludge often builds up like that because the engine has been used for short runs and hasnt warmed up enough to remove the condense in the engine. A good diesel oil is probably your best option to clean the inside. Just change it and the filter regulary. Chas

Good news with your diff. Did you change the side seals and the cover gasket on the diff? Just looking at the first photo, looks like its weeping from the seals or cover gasket. They are simple to replace now its out of the car. I cant remember the price exactly but it was less than €20 at the nissan dealer for 2 seals, gasket & new breather. I would not do the front seal, it looks good in the photo, no leaks. If you replace it, you can mess up the pre-load on the pinion bearings. Chas

You have a series II. The series I stopped in jan 71. You will need to find a driveshaft out of a seires I or shorten your shaft. Follow the link I posted in #3. Its a good blog with info about the driveshafts. Chas

Like Diseazd said; you got the short shaf already. In the series I 240Z the diff sat 35mm forward. You can move the diff back to the series II position and use the driveshaft. I think there are issues with the tunnel not clearing the gearbox on the early models. The rear gearbox mount needs to be modified because the 5sp is 50mm longer. This is a good blog on the swap http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482 Chas

Do you mean the thermotime switch? If you disconnect it the cold start valve will not activate in cold conditions and when the coolant temperature is somewhere under 20degC (70degF), cant remember exact temp, but its in the FSM. If its always above 20 degC where you live it should not be a problem. The two hoses you are talking about go to the vacuum switch for the EGR control circuit. The switch is a thermal valve that opens around 45degC (105degF). Without them you effectivly disable your EGR system. They also have a second use and that is to warm up the AAV (Advanced Air Valve) in nissan it called the air regulator bypass. It has a bimetal element that operates the throttle bypass valve for fast idle when cold. This vavle will work up to 80degC. The valve is heated two ways or a combination of both to be more precise. The coolant heats the bimetal and the elctrical circuit heats the bimetal. If the water is disconnected the electrical circuit will take much longer to heat it and therfore giving the engine a faster idle until the bimetal element heats up. Someone has probably disconnected the coolant line to disable the EGR and excepting the possible fast idle for a short time after the engine warms up. Chas

Sorry to hear about your back. Can be really painful, especially when you want do get around a bit. Hope it improves for you now christmas is apon us. If you dont mind using unions and replacing the pipes in sections, it should be a quick job getting it replaced. Five hours for a shop is than too long IMO. Replacing it in one section can take a lot more effort and you often have to remove other stuff to fit it or you have to bend it all up to g it in there and then try and straighten it:cry: One thing for sure, if the pipes are rusty, I would not hestate to replace them. Brakes are your only true way of stopping the car without damaging it;) Chas

One hour seems to me to be pretty short for a propper job. Im not Familiar with the Taurus, but if you want to replace the lines in one piece it can be difficult With all the suspension and drive train in place. Ive done one on an Escort and it took about 3 hours including bending the pipe, flaring the ends, refitting, bleeding the system and test drive. That was working with the car on ramps which made working under the car slow. A hoist would make this work quicker. Hope it helps, Chas

What sort of LED setup are you using. Im using standard LED replacements and they work excellent. See http://www.abc-led.nl/webshop/led-autoverlichting/ but Im sue you can get these in the states. Chas

Have you done anything to the brake before this started happening? Like already said, the handbrake will not overtighten the brakes. If everything is working right its just not possible. Things that could also cause binding rear brakes is missing or damages shoes retainer clips, a distorted drum or a seized wheel cylinder (rust and gunk behind the piston). I would check the bleeder as olzed described. It could be the master cylinder or proportioning valve sticking. The rubbers can swell up and block return ports and such things as refilling with differant brake fluid without cleaning the system of old fluid. Synthetic and normal brake fluid can cause this, they dont mix. Chas

Have you done anything to the brake before this started happening? Like already said, the handbrake will not overtighten the brakes. If everything is working right its just not possible. Things that could also cause binding rear brakes is missing or damages shoes retainer clips, a distorted drum or a seized wheel cylinder (rust and gunk behind the piston). I would check the bleeder as olzed described. It could be the master cylinder or proportioning valve sticking. The rubbers can swell up and block return ports and such things as refilling with differant brake fluid without cleaning the system of old fluid. Synthetic and normal brake fluid can cause this, they dont mix.

Well OJ, if thats a december pic, it must be pretty warm were you live;)

I removed mine and cleaned them with Cif, hot water and a kitchen scrubbing pad. They are zinc coated so you need to be careful otherwise you will remove the zinc coating.

Nils, Thats a serious repair you have planned. It will be inteesting to see how this all comes back together. My Z is completly rust free, but the rails have had a hard life and are all dented and bent. Ill probably change them. Chas

Tom, Good tittle, much better. One piece of advice about the diff. Looks like the diff back cover gasket is leaking most of the oil. I would replace it and the half shaft seals (half shafts just pop out with a good pull or carefully wedge something between the flange and diff housing). Dont touch the front pinion seal unless you really know what your doing. If the geometry is off the diff will whine and drive you crazy. I have done a couple with a friend that worked in a transmission shop and I have to admit if it wasnt for him it wouldnt of been a happy end. Chas