EuroDat

Here is my two cents worth, for all its worth;). If you need a manual for the carbs try downloading the fsm on http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html You might be frustrated now, but you made the right move. The round tops are the better units. Flat tops are commonly known as emmision carbs and therefore less performance. Goodluck with it. Chas

I know what you mean by previous resto jobs. Mine had a nice suprise for me. The back passenger side tail light didn't look right. The mounting frame behind the tail light was all bent up. They just hammered it in so they could get the light to fit and filled the rest with filler. It cost me two days to get it back to (almost) normal, but its still not perfect. I want to eventually repaint the car and will probably have to cut the section out and replace it. Chas

Nathan, Both flywheels are standard 10kg. The only differance is the size of the pressure plate and diameter of the clutch disc. I was just wondering thats all. Chas

A little info on Blues photo's. Its an interesting drawing. Have not seen a Z flywheel lightened like that. They have taken metal off almost every unused surface. The flywheel with the holes is a Kameari chromoly steel flywheel (based on cs1.0619 steel alloy). Its around 4.3kg and very thin due to the high grade metal used to make it. Even so thin as they are they dont easly get heat spots. Again the metal used distributes the heat better. If your driving on the street its no option. You can't get a standard flywheel down to this weight because the metal is just not strong enough and the flywheel would fly apart. Flex could also be a problem when engaging the clutch and cause fatigue. The left photo is a machine shop job, but its not quite as light as the drawing. The drawing looks like it would be another 25 to 35% less weight again. Chas

It look like a good straight car thats been neglected for a very long time in someones backyard. Except for the funky paintwork;) the body looks good for its age. It will be nice to watch your progress. Goodluck Chas

When the Z's first came out, oil had ZDDP (zinc). That greatly reduced in new oils, but still availably in Valvoline VR1 en Mobile 1. The zinc helps protect old engines. They were designed for before the EPA cracked down on emmisions in the 80's. http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf Chas

Hi Blue, Interesting to know how heavy the flywheel is? I take it the photos are first removing the back section and then complete with holes. My flywheel has 18 holes against the 21 holes in the photo and ended up about 7.8kg. It started at just a fraction over 10kg. Cheers cahs

A good shop will ultrasonic clean them, replace the small inlet filter and the plastic tip. Flow test them at different speeds. They can't recondition them because they can not be dismantled. If they measure coil leakage in the injector the only option is a new one. Same goes if the needle does'nt seal properly after cleaning. Check the link I posted above to the Hiperformancestore. If you scroll down the page you will find the section on injectors. It gives you a good idea what you can do with your injectors. A quick test you can do at home to see what spray pattern they have: Connect about a metre of 5/16" fuel hose to the injector and fit a air hose coupling. Use about 15 to 30psi pressure. Connect a 9 volt battery to the terminals to activate the injector. Let is spray into a clear container to see the patern. You can also time how long it takes to empty the hose and repeat the procedure for each injector. Its a rough test, but gives you an idea of what the injectors condition is. Dont use 12 volts on the injector. That will probably burn the coil an render the injector useless. When they are on the car they pulse and that averages out at about 7.5volts. A 9 volt battery for +/-10 seconds wont cause any problems. Cheers Chas

Is it a flywheel out of a 2+2 or turbo mobel? Then your using the 240mm clutch. Thats a good strong 780lb (10kn/m) clucth. The coupes used the 225mm 550lb (7.5kn/m) clutch. Both are 10kg standard. Aftermarket aluminium flywheels are around 4kg and not suitable for street use. If you lighten your own flywheel, don't go under 7.5kg. That way you can still drive in traffic without stalling the engine. It will rev easier (about 25% faster) and idle a little rougher. My flywheel has 3 sets of 6 holes machined in the outer section. I cant remember the size, but i think they were 15mm in diameter. The flywheel was 7.75kg with ringgear. The engine reacts much faster and its still drivable. I am glad I did it. Hope it helps you. Chas

Gratz on getting them out without damaging them. I would get them serviced by a serious injector service center. They can replace the tips, seals and small inlet filter and then flow trst them.

If you want to play around with it, you can try these checks: Check the coil resistance. CHeck the resistence over the two terminals. Should be less than 2.0 ohms for OEM coils. Check the air gap between pick-up and the reluctor. Should be 0.2 to 0.4mm. If the gap is to wide the pick-up will not read the reluctor and no spark. Check the resistance in the pick-up. Mine is 730 ohm. Im not sure but I think the spec is 700 to 740 Ohm. You can measure it from the terminal block just in front of the coil. Your getting power to the resistor, but are you getting it at the coil. You can disconnect the + wire from the coil (white with black strip) and check if your getting power there. If this all checks OK. Then it looks like its a problem with the transistor unit or the wiring to it. Connect a voltmeter to the - side of the coil and ground on the car. Turn ignition on. Check if you see battery voltage. If so move onto the transistor unit. Checks at the Transistor unit: Its located at the passengers side under dash. Disconnect the plugs and do the following tests. Check if its getting power. That is the Black wire with white strip and the black wire on the small plug. They should have battery voltage. The long plug has a power wire as well. Check the resistance between the green an red wire from the pick-up. Should be the same as before at the terminal block in front of the coil. Remove the plug to the cold start valve so you can crank the engine without pumping to much fuel in it. Set you multimeter to AC voltage as low a scale you can go and crank the engine. You should see it bump a little. It won't be much, about 0.5volts, depends on your meters response. Every time the reluctor passes the pick-up it will pulse. Good luck Chas

Hey guys, the figure 2.5/32 Is that 5/64 or am I reading it wrong?:stupid:

I used Gates automotive multi fuel 8mm and 13mm clamps http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-INJECTION-HOSE-CLAMPS-5-16-HOSE-SIZE-AUTOMOTIVE-WHOLESALE-PRICING-/380417962705. Don't use worn drive clamps with slots in the band for the screw. They tend to cut into the hose. Remember you can't replace the hose section of the injector. Chas

Hi no.never. Read this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46931.html It will give you a good run down on how to get them out. DON'T cut the hoses to the injectors. You can not replace them, they are part of the injector. The o-ring are not really o-ring, but two square sectioned rings. See my second photo in the thread above. There is a small one at the tip and one under the aluminium bracket where the screw go through. You can replace the screws with bolts. The part numbers are also in the thread above. Just go to your local nisan dealer. I never had any luck with the gaskets at the dealer, but you can get them at Black Dragon, MSA or even ebay. If the screws wont come loose, try tapping the back of the screwdriver when turning it. The impact often helps release the screws. Then replace them with Hex screw part #01121-02981. You need 12, $.61 each so $7.32. They are stuffed anyway. You can get to them with a small pair of vice grips, but you need to remove all the fuel piping first. Its hard to get to but its do-able. Be careful not to damage the injectors. Might be a good time to service the injectors while you got them out. Be carfull when selecting an injector service shop. They are old and dont like the new injector cleaning fluid much. Okinjectors does old injectors. http://hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm Scroll down to the section where he talks about injectors. Interesting. Last piece of advice is to download the fuel injection manual from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html It has a good dianostic section. Goodluck Chas

OMG. Thats the Mechanics version of Ty from Extreme home makeoverLOL

You dont need the dist. cap or the rotor button to do that test. Just use the HT lead from the coil to an old spark plug and crank the engine. I dont think the problem is in the dist.cap or rotor button. Its probably in the pickup under the rotor button. It has two wires (red and green) they go to a terminal block just in front of the coil. Check that nothing is loose and disconnect. Then the wiring to the coil. Check the resistor under the coil. It could be your problem. Are your getting power to the resistor? EuroDat (Chas)

Thanks Diseazd, good to hear its still holding up Grats on the top job cajunz. Looks really good. I have a cap on mine and now very tempted to try this resto. Chas

Have you downloaded the fsm and gone through the trouble shooting section? http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Sounds like its in the electronics in your distribitor or your not getting power to the coil. I take it its just ohms and not 1.2k ohms? The resistance over the distribitor cap and rotor button is not your problem then. You can check it by pulling the coil lead out of the distributor and use a spark plug to see if your get spark there. Good luck with it.

Grats on finding the problem. It had me stumped what it could be, only in reverse mmm? Reading your solution it seems quiet obvious, but thats happen often. Rotating sounds can be misleading. Thats what makes it fun to have a classic otherwise it would be boring and just a regular ride like most cars on the road.

I thought the tanks were stamp out of zinc plated sheet metal. I know ford australia use to do that in the seventies to try and prevent rust.

I have a piece of paper glued in the back of my Fsm with production dates for the Z series. I dont know were it came from, it was in the manualwhen it came with the car. 240z. 10/69 - 05/70. 000013 - 021000. 1970 240z. 01/71 - 08/71. 021001 - 046000. 1971 240z. 09/71 - 06/72. 046001 - 120000. 1972 differential repositioned 35mm to the back. 240z. 07/72 - 07/73. 120001 - 172732. 1973 260z. 08/73 - 08/74. 000001 - 060000. 1974 260z. 09/74 - 11/74. 060001 - 200000. 1974 Federal 5 mph bumper regulations. 280z .... The list goes through to the 280zxt 06/83. 737691 The numbers fit for my 280z. For the 77 280z its correct. Hope that helps

throttle open or closed does not matter with fuel ratio. Its the plunger that keeps discharging extra fuel for acceleration. That happens ever time you pump the gas peddle. Engines with downdrafts are effected most because gravity helps the fuel flow to the engine. Sidedrafts have less trouble because they dont have the velocity to pull the fuel into the engine when cranking.

My 280Z has between 160 and 170psi with 131k miles on the original motor. The General rules I follow for all engines I have tested: 1: Run the engine to operating temp and then remove all spark plugs. 2: Hold the throttle full open. That makes a differance by preventing vacuum buildup. 3: Non EFI; Don't keep pumping the gas peddle between tests. If its a carby model the fuel can dilute oil around the piston rings, which can lower the compression reading. 4: Crank engine 6 to 8 revolutions per cylinder test (always do the same amount of revolutions). The figures you get depend on several thing. Compression ratio, age of the engine, NA or turbo all have an effect. All the figures should be are around 5% of each other. EuroDat

Its a mild "drivable" street cam. You would notice a small increase in power. I have one with a similar grind and it make for a good daily driver. See link for more general info on crane cams. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ I tend to agree with his method of thought, but then again I don't race my car. I did know a guy using a "hot" cam and he was proud about it, but the car was a shocker to drive on the street under 4000rpm. Dam thing kept stalling and running rough. He never raced it so I never saw to point in it. Its not just a question of putting a cam in and driving it. Everything has to match or it wont work to full potential.

Wow. Prices are all over the place. Would not like to be the person who paid $1500 and then come across that ad.