EuroDat

I don'tknow if you can still find them, but the part numbers are: Reusable "flat" tye with barb for fastening on body is 24210-N4600 The one with round holes and dowl peg for fastening onto body is 24220-S5000 (old part no. was 24220-89937) In the parts list they mention 7 flat type and 13 round type for the engine bay. I posted a foto of the flat type in Ben's Engine rebuild thread. If have not has any luck finding new ones. Good luck hunting.

I brought mine 6 months ago for $400. Just have not got round to mounting them yet. When I seen the price I went to the garage to see it they where ok. Thought I maybe bought a dud set, but there ok.

Looking good Jason. Nice to see a workshop just as tidy and organised as mineLOL You mentioned its hard getting LHD parts over here. You can just say "parts". Just about everything I want is in the US. Buying it is generally not the problem, its getting it over here. Then the taxes and import duties on the price and shipping. A lot of e-bayers dont want to send overseas and then they send it UPSS. But then Im just winging because Im jelous of the guys over there;) Looking forward to watching it develop. Eurodat

Bidding finished at $1500.

that the ones I had all the trouble with. One refused to release, so I cut the line to get it out. Ended up making new lines out of other hard piping I had. I was replacing the wheel cylinders and new SS braided hoses. Good luck with it

It might sound a little stupid:stupid: I know, but are you turning it the right direction? It wont be the first time that has happened. People make that mistake with gearbox shafts because they are left hand threads, but here you are bent over the brake drum and everything is upside down. Are you also having this much trouble with the hard lines on the backing plate?

Looks like a good solid car. The door latch is puzzling... "Replace all hoses, wiring, you name it". I would like to see that money tree you got growing in your backyardLOL Restorations can get pretty expensive if you let it get out of hand. Are you planning to race with the car or are the brakes a cosmetic upgrade. For street use the Z brakes are fine. I'd spend the money on a 5sp © transmission out of a 240SX or a ( from a 280ZX. Goodluck with the resto:)

Your last resort will be the vice grips. You can replace the hard line it the fitting is badly damaged. Its not that hard to remove. Both rear lines connect to a T-piece between the diff and fuel tank. Its thats a bit of fiddling around to get to it, but the T-piece is brass and away form all the road grime, so it should "normally" release without usung vice grips. I totally agree with the advice above. Sucess really depends on the tools you use. Snap-on is the best imo. The jaws on the vices grips need to bite in hard the first time, otherwise you will just tear all the metal off. Then you really need to replace the hardlines. Goodluck

Hi all, Im having trouble getting Fast System started. The other three programs work OK, but Fast System keeps giving Error code 53 when starting up. Normally I dont have any problems with this since I only use the E-FAST System and Parts Manager, but now Im looking for a distributor cap and rotor button for a S15 Silvia 2001 with SR20DE engine. E-FAST only goes to 1978. The distributor has a part number: 22100 65F12. The manufacture is Mistubishi. Does anyone know the part numbers for the distributor cap and rotor button. Any help is much appreciated.

My gauge is 0 - 90psig in 1977 280Z. It seems to work fine, so Im leaving it at that. Ive got to many other projects to begin playing with the gauges. Cheers

Hi, I have not tried to adjust the gauges on a Z yet, but I have done it on old MK1 & MK2 escorts. One thing is important to remember; the gauges work on resistance caused by the sender, but also in the old wiring. With that in mind I calibrated the gauges in the car using the wiring in the car as follows: 1: Dismatled the dash to access the gauge adjustment screws 2: Removed the senders from the block and used a jumper cable to earth the gauges to the car. 3: Simulated oil pressure with a compressor and accurate pressure gauge. The Z only has 0 and 90 psi maximum. 4: If you want accuacy, I used a 1/2 round disc of paper and marked every tien psi to maximum. Then scanned it in and made a sticker for the gauge. We wanted to know what was going on with the oil and not just a ball park figure in the middle somewhere. Took a couple of goes to get the colour and scale right with the sicker. I only adjusted maximum pressure, since the sicker would show the rest. 5: The temp sender was a little harder. Then I followed steps 1 & 2 and used a cup of water and a thermometer taped to the sensor to read the temp. Don't just hang the thermometer in the cup. Reading can be off. I used this up to 65degC and then used a nut roaster (small oil deep fryer). That way I could go about boiling point. I had to be really carefull with the oil fryer and ended up using foam to support it between the engine an chassis of the car. Then I followed the same procedure in step 4. Might not be what you had in mind, but it worked find in the escort. Nice accurate gauges

You can try this guy. He might have what your looking for. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-HEAD-LIGHT-/250828476848?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a668ad1b0&vxp=mtr Or make an offer on this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/74-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-GAS-PEDAL-/251160263804?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7a517c7c&vxp=mtr

Hi Bruce, You did these repairs 6 years ago. We are all wondering how the repairs are holding up after all that time? Would be nice to hear your input. The results you had were amazing. Thanks

Can you take a photo of the "blocks"? Not really sure what you mean here. My cable was dry and dragging a lot which made the handbrake work poorly. I removed the cable and cleaned it in diesel and degreaser, Re-oiled it and put it back in. The only thing I had to feed the cable through was the rubber straps behind the diff which hold the cable up away from the diff.

You could try the hose for the 280zx 1980 model. You will need to block the extra side hose nozzle. MSA sell them, I think. Looks like your model is no longer stocked. Could be because it change over to the 1980 model soon after intro and therefore too little demond nowdays. I could order mine, for a 280Z 1977 model here in the Netherland last june no problems. Thats another type again. MSA Check MSA. They list them all, but yours is no longer available. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SFC03A

Did you find out wat was causing the drag on the clutch? Interesting to know what was causing it.

You could also give your local Nissan dealer a try. Part no. 16578-P7100. I ordered other parts for the intake on a 280Z 1977 no problems and not to much price difference with nissanpartszone. Goodluck searching

You can also try NissanPartsZone http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=280ZX&ModelYear=1979&ModelSeries=S130&FileType=268&SelectConditions=(1%3d2S%3b2%3dL28E%3b4%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b6%3dC%3b)&ShowConditions=(1%3d2S%3b2%3dL28E%3b4%3dMT%3b5%3dF5%3b6%3dC%3b)&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=B&ComponentsNo=165 They have is for $28.72 aftermarket. I made a couple of screen shots. You can order on-line. Sucess.

Im with conedodger. Stop doing that to yourself and go cruising with your friends, more enjoyment with poeple that understand what effort you put into your car to get where it is. PS. OJ, your so entertaining. You get first prize for enthusiasmLOL Cheers

Ill probably cop a lot of slack from my last post. Ive noticed in over forums that some poeple have strong opinions about what can and cant be done with regrinding and lash geometry. Wahat I was trying to say is the more lift (above standard) you want the more you need to take of the base circles to achieve it. The more you take off the more you need to compensate with larger lash pads. And calculating the size is a pain:stupid: WTH, i jumped out in the open, shoot me then :dead:

You dont need a P90 cam. You can also use one out of a head with internal oil system (N47, P79) and regrind. If your not going huge lift, the base circles should be alright with standard lash pads and maintain the right geometry. Make sure its a original nissan billet. You can see by "japan" stamped on the end. Goodluck searching.

I have nether heard of anyone using the repo taillights. The japanese company made 100, the first 20 or so had blemishes and the rest were ok. Don't know how they stand up to UV over time. I looked into making my own. One thing is certain, its a lot of work to make them and a lot of trial and error. The chromed plastic pieces can cost up to $200 a set just to get chromed. It could be a good option in the future since the originals are now around 40 years old and supply is running out. These ones on ebay look dam good for their age. They Came from a car that was looked after a lot, probably always in the garage or under cover. I wonder way they still not on the car? There is a company in Aust. making the lenses, but he doesnt have a price on his website. Again the quality of the plastic is unknown and how it would hold up to the UV over time http://www.streetlens.com/japanese.html

The bidding has just hit $920. At that price you could consider using the jdm taillights from http://jdm-car-parts.com/category/item-for-sale/page/13/ Anyone seen these taillights? Just wondering if the colours are close to original.

I was wondering how you got on with your bearings. Good to hear that problem is solved. Sounds like a dodgy repair shop you are using. Id steer clear of them and find another shop in future. Did you have any luck with another Cam?

Hi HS30-H, I cleaned all the rods and castings in a parts washer, it even removed the shoddy red paint. I then turned the eyes 180 so I could fill the cavity with grease. The castings are also greased and assembled. The 3 rubbers are definetly rubber and not felt. Maybe someone changed them in the past? Ill look at the option of using felt. That would also stop the rattle. Thanks