EuroDat

Zcurves advies on the fenders is spot on. Even leaning on them wil dent the crap out of them:angry: I learnt the hard way. Luckly the car needed repaintng. Your project is looking good. Looking forward to see how you go with the L28 ZXT upgrade. Dont forget to step back, take a moment and enjoy what you are creating:classic:

Looking good. It will be a great ride when your finished. Nice chisel set, I came to the same conclusion when I was almost finished on another car. Like they say; right tools for thr right job. Cheers

Just remebered something else. Dont know if its possible in a z. He replaced the clutch disc back to front. It may a noise that would scare the hell out of you when you disengaged the clutch. But that was a english 1972 Hillman Hunter.

I would say its a problem with your spigot bearing. The noise is coming from the inputshaft slipping in the spigot bearing, because the bearing is siezed. Only way to check is remove the tranny:( Do you feel any vibrations through your clutch pedal. A bad throw-out bearing can sometimes vibrate the pedal through the hydraulic fluid. I had a problem with another car that was standing a long time and the clutch disc was sticking to the input shaft. That way it would drag on the flywheel. I dont think thats your problem, because of the noise. Must be frustrating stopping the engine to used reverse all the time. I know it was for me. Good luck hunting it down.

Hi, regarding the oil. You might want to read the article on the site http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/ about 3/4 down the page under title Lubrication.

The EFI FSM Has a great trouble shooting section. That should help you find the problem. You can download it on http://www.xenons30.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf oK Injectors has a webpage with step by step instruction to test the bosch Ljetronic injection system http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm Goodluck

You can try and fing theproblem with your EFI. It is a basic system and generally simple to diagnose. You can also use the instructions on http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm. Could save you a lot of money and if the rings are shot, you can use the money on an engine rebuild. I ended up lifting my injectors and cranking the engine (without the spark plugs) and found nr3 and nr 4 injectors clogged. There is a recent post about testing the injectors in the fuel injection forum http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46931.html. If you read that it might help. Cheers and goodluck

Hi Larry, If he goes down that road, will he also need to upgrade the MC to an early 280ZX model? I was just wondering because the fluid capacity (surface area) of the rear calipers is more than the drum cylinders. The pedal travel would increase considerable.

I fiddled around trying to get it out, but ended up dropping the tank. That was a pain because I just tanked the car the a couple of days before I decided to remove the 280Z bumpers. On my car the panel above the rear bumper was spot welded to the rear body panel. Paint work is also something to consider when changing the bumpers. Ill be respraying anyway so its not a problem. Strange; Ive nether read about this in the forums.

Check the information on http://www.xenons30.com/cams.html. See Comp cams at bottom of page. They come close to what you have. One thing is certain, its not for normal street use. Duration is to long for that. Its more a performance street cam. The long duration and low Lift makes it suitable for standard springs and reduces valves float at high revs. One thing Ive learned over time is when deciding between two cams (for street use) always go for the milder cam. I dont know what cam you are now using, but if its close to standard you will have to change your driving style with this cam.

A quick background on the differences between the N42 and N47 heads: The N42 head come out on the 1975-76 280Z and had larger steel valves, soft brass seats and square exhaust ports. The head in standard form is only suitable for leaded fuel or additive. Begin 1977 datsun changed over to the N47 head to comply with Californian emmisions. This head was also used on the Fed models. The N47 head used steel seats and a liner in the exhaust port. The exhaust port is also diamond shaped. I think the ports are the same as the P79 but not sure on that?

You might want to check if you are getting fuel to the carbs. Could be a dry fuel pump which can take a long time cracking to get fuel back up to the cabs. Good luck, take your time and dont give up;)

I agree. If you can lock up your tyres, your already at 100% braking capacity. The only thing you achieve is less force on the peddle to reach 100%. Seems a lot of effort and money to do that. I was thinking of upgrading but in the end I just kept my standard set up with some small mods: new MSA slotted rotors, rebuild my calipers myself, new cylinder and brake shoes for the rear and SS braided hoses all round. Braking has improved out of sight (for regular street use).

The setup I have seen used the standard proprtioning valve with an extra in the rear brake line behind the engine. Front had toyota S13-8 with slotted non vented rotors. He also upgraded the rear brakes with a 240sx (S13) setup. Dont know if he used an MSA brackat or fabricated his own. Master cylinder was a 1" willawood. He estimated 50% more braking power.

Im not sure what swaybar you are using (aftermarket or OEM), but here are some pics of a 280z setup.

If you are thinking of going original colour, you might want to investigate http://www.datsunparts.com/1255 Good luck with the rebuild. We all go through hard patches when restoring:cry: I bought a maxima tranny and it was worse then what i already had. 5th gear was stuffed. Im afraid thats the risks you take. Looking forward to seeing the finished result.

I never tried that. Learn something new everyday:bulb: Might be why I had problems with XP SP2? It works find on my old computer with win XP (SP1) I dont use it all that much so Ill leave it until the the old computer give up and I need to upgrade to Windows 7 Cheers

I just checked my version of Fast. Version 4.15 A1/3-2003. Probably why Im having trouble in Windows 7. Anyone know where I can download a later version? Thanks

Im running window 7 on my laptop and im not nerdy enough to get the dam thing running in any usable fashion:cry:. It works on my old pc running windows xp sp1. Dont install xp sp2. I did that and Nissan Fast freaked and wouldnt search the database. Sucess:finger:

Grats on the good result. Looks nice and clean. I done a Ford escort MKII and they where wrinkled for the first week. After a couple of days in the sun they looked great until an idiot ran a red light and T-boned me. Not quite shaw which way to go with the 280Z. The leathers ones are tempting.

Ben just remindered me. If its an early model and has a master cylinder with horizontal bolt patern. Save it too. Its a direct bolt in on the S30 when u do a big brake upgrade or rear disc upgrade:classic:

I agree, I would take the engine, even if i was'nt planning to use it. Its such a shame to scrap a F54 block. With only 120k its probably still original and not oversized. The P79 head is one of the better heads on the L series. A lot of people prefer them over the N42/47 because of the high squench chambers.

Check out www.thezstore.com they have a lot of stock and performance parts for the Z &ZX models. www.blackdragonauto.com. has a wide range of stock and performance parts and you can order a hard copy catalogue online. See www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01C02 for stock mechanical rear suspension stuff.

If its something to do with the fuel injection you could try the system check by okinjectors at http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm. The instructions are for an alfa romeo, but the injection system is more or less the same and the step by step instructions are clear and easy to follow.

Thanks Zed, Your tips are great and de links you posted are very helpfull. Ive seen the atlanticz techtips before, thats what brought me up on the idea. Its just that everyone talks about swapping with the 240SX. My tranny is a FS5W71B with the brass syncro on 5th (see photo). Probably out of a maxima? Nigel's photo blog is top. The difference between the two transmissions is well documented. Cheers