EuroDat

I think the 4 screws changed about mid 71, so he should be looking for the for screw version with an E46 manifold. They were Hitachi HJG-46W ***. I think the three stars referred to a version code. And the 3 screw version was Hitachi HJL-46W. I found that in a Hitachi parts manual a long time ago. It refered to those numbers for the Datsun 240Z (North America). I don't have the manual and it was long before mobile phones so I wrote it down. It mentioned the flat tops as HMB-46W. The letters and numbers probably mean something, just like the transmission code, but I'm not sure what.

Hi, I would do a little more research before buying any parts. Is it just first gear or all gears will not engage? If it suddenly failed, you should be able to find a cause easily. To work one moment and then not work sounds mechanical. Hydraulic issues generally give warnings signs like spongy pedal or hard to engage 1st and reverse. It could be something other than the master or slave cylinder. Are all the linkages in place. Is the slace cylinder still bolted in position and pushrod attached? Do you still have fluid in the small clutch reservoir next the the brake booster? Hydraulic fluid leaking on the floor? Broken hose to the slave cylinder? Can you have someone work the clutch pedal while you chack the slave cylinder is working? This could mean you have a problem inside the bellhousing. Something like a broken clutch fork. I also had a clutch disc fall apart and get lodged in the pressure plate. It was instant and I could not engage any gear. The slave cylinder pushrod should move at least 20mm when you push the pedal tothe floor. Can you check if it does that? You could buy the master and slave cylinders and find the problem is something else.

Double post.

Good to hear you have solved your leak. The omega bushing works in the 71B 5 speeds, I know that for a fact as I used it in 2012 and it is still working fine. Looks like it's a good replacement for the 71B 4 speed. Thanks for the feedback.

The proppeler shaft should have a uni-joint center of cup to center of cup measurement 575mm. The shorter version should be 525mm., give or take a couple mm. I took these measurements with a tape measure. The 280Z with non servicable uni-joints is 565mm and the 2+2 is 865mm. Looking at the screen shot Zed Head made, I don't think you have the short one. It doesn't look like you can get another 50mm between yoke and tranny housing. You can see where the seal was in the my photo's.

The biggest problem with garage kept old tryes is with aging comes hardening. Mine are always garage kept on blocks placed under the suspension keeping the wheels 2 cm off the ground for most of the year. I know they are hard and will not have good grip in the wet, but my zed never goes out in the rain. I would like to buy new tyres, but finding anything suitable for this period in 14" is hard. If they are not showing any cracks, they should be ok for dry weather. They will under perform in the wet so be carefull in wet weather. Specially if your daily is a modern car, you can quickly forget the situation you are in amnd then it's too late.

The play in the bush looks excessive in your video, but you shake it up and down so fast, it's hard to judge how much. It could also be showing movement in the transmission mount. The fact that it is making noise when you shake it is also a sign you have too much clearance somewhere. One theory. It could very well be causing your leak even with the correct sized seal. Nothing is absolute. Everything we design has tolerances. Same rule for the balance of the proppeller shaft. It will sling out towards its heaviest point. That in turn will push the seal lip away from centre as the slinger motion moves around the rotation. At high speeds this action pushes the seal lip out, but the lips reaction time is not fast enough to return and maintain a seal on the opposite side of the slinger. If you have 1mm play in the bush, the seal will move 1mm in and out every revolution. At slow speeds the reaction time will keep up, but at higher speed the reaction time of the seal can't keep up. If this is happening, you should notice a vibration in the gearshift knob. Not saying this is the cause, but I have seen this on variable speed feed pumps on a pasteuriser. No leak at low speed, but leaked at hidh speed and vibrated until we changed all the bearings. I would strongly reccomend using an original Nissan seal for your next attempt. Try to eliminate variables. The Nissan part number 32136-U010A is specified for this application, where the National could be a seal that fits a range specification and you could be near the limit for the seal. Add a couple of tolerance here and there and you have a leak. The seal size should be 35/50x11mm. Metric.

I think it was something most European counties demanded. Demark and Switzerland also had the front indicators above the bumper. They looked like an afterthought. Looks like something the local dealer would use. "We have these units for farm tractor mudgaurds. Maybe they will fit". Funny thing is if you import a 240Z from the USA with the indicators under the front bumper and the original number plate light above the number plate, you don't need to change it to the Dutch standard to pass the roadworthy inspection. You only need to disconnect the side indicators and change the headlamps.

I don't know anything about the lead time for whitehead performance, but I like what you are doing with your restoration. Ingenuitive rotisserie, the workmanship and colour looks great.

And the english version is "penny wise, pound foolish"

The famous 92mm height measurement is based on several conditions that need to be the same through all the pressure plate manufactures. The diaphragm releases to a certain height. That is determined by pivot point of the diaphragm and inner radius of the clutch cover where the diaphragm contacts. I had a 350 chevy engine with a saginaw close ratio box and a webber (different company) performance clutch / throw out bearing collar. The old and new pressure plate heights were competely different, I can't remeber what they were going back 34 years, but once I bolted them to the flywheels (new clutch had a lightened flywheel), they were the same height. It will be interesting to see what the assembled condition height is. It is the only relavent measurement.

This company "SW Motorsports" is the one I was talking about for the porsche type synchro rings. I think he was moding the porsche rings at one stage, but thats going back a threw years now. I think he use to race skylines at Amaroo park back in the good old days of Mark Skaife and Jim Ricards.

Steve mentioned two possabilities before you added the a post saying it idled for 5 seconds and sounds rough. I think that points to fuel delivery. With the ignition switch the engine should die immediately when the key goes from Start to ON. No power to the fuel pump will mean the engine dies slowly after about 5 seconds of rough idle. You might want to invest in a simple pressure guage to measure fuel pressure 0-50psi. You could have very poor fuel pressure and where it starts on the Cold Start Vavle, which is basically a large injector, and then doesn't have enough pressure to run on the normal injectors.

Not sure if all these parts will interchange with the FS5C71 transmissions. The synchros are completly different (porsche servo type) design. I have read of people actually using modified porche synchros in the FS5C71 transmission, but never seen it done. There is a guy in Australia that did the mod for the skylines. I have his address (website) somewhere.

I made a list of all the parts I used to rebuild my FS5W71B back in 2012. All the bearings, seals and o-ring sizes are there including the original Nissan p/n.

Hi DuckManNK, The bush was replaceable it the 4 speed and had a slightly larger outside diameter iirc. The 5 speeds had a thinner bush and was no longer considered a replaceable item. Worn bush meant replace the rear extension housing. The bush you are quoting is for the later FS5W71C transmissions used in the later 4 cylinder Z series engines (Z22 & Z24 etc.) The transmission is a stubby version, meaning shorter rear extension housing and the propellor shaft is also shorter and some fitted with a two piece shaft and center bearing. This all reduces the stress and wear on this bush. The bush is therefore the same outer and inner diameter, but much shorter in length. It will work, but it will wear out faster than the original FS5W71B 5 speed bush. Search for Omega Machine Tool 71411. That bush is almost identical. The dimensions are the same, just slightly different lubrication groove. https://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm It's also a lot cheaper than the Nis 62.

Unless you can crack it open and visually inspect it, it will be a gamble. Maybe the owner will let you do that. I paid a guy €25 once to let me open it first. Then I could inspect the synchros and gears. If I didn't buy it, I would bolt it back together afterwards and he could keep the €25. I'd rather spend €25 than end up spending €300 on a dud transmission. Zed head has already given you some good tips to try. The problem is such a test could identify a shot centre bearing and put you off buying it, but a centre bearing is readily available and easy to replace. The rotation test will not find a worn synchro ring or selector. There is simply not enough force on the gears for it to jump out of gear or create noise.

Hi Doug, Koni started making their shocks for the 280Z again in 2019. There is a thread here all about it. You could get in contact with The Z store. See page 4 in the thread for their post on the 280Z shocks. They showcthe 280Z shocks on the site. @Joseph@TheZStore

If the L24 is still ok and servicable, I would put it back together and run it like that until you know what you want to do. Like @Zed Head said, doing one mod without the other will not do much, but empty your wallet. I'd drive it around for a while, enjot it, and think about what you want from the engine. Then gather all the parts for an engine project. You could use the L26 as a starting point. I think the biggest buss for your money is a lightened flywheel. It doesn't add any horsepower, but it certainly gives a standard engine kick in the a$$ response. Very revvy and a little touches at the traffic lights, but managable once you get use to it. My wife keeps stalling mine, but then she refuses to drive it because it's got no power steering, no power windows, no power mirrors, blue tooth or navigation, this list goes on. Looks like you are having fun restoring it so far. It's your project, so you can do what you want when you. Just my 2 eurocents.

Yes indeed, I'm very experienced.

I used a simple drill bit, but didn't go all the way through. Rolled the drill around while drilling to mill the spot weld away. Then pushing the sight shield up and down until it broke loose. No photos of that, but I do have some photos of the front 280Z turn signal brackets.

Those support tabs on the sight shield have three and one tab even had four not so evenly spaced spot welds. I managed to remove mine without too much damage too it. I took some photos of mine a while back to help someone with removing the shield. Another interesting thing about the mounting of this shield is the dimples in the valance on the body. You can see their mark on the photo 2214. They are about 20mm in diameter and 2mm high. Located at every spot weld.

I know this is essentually focused on the 240z, but a part that is becoming extreemly hard to fine in any condition is the 280Z bumper ends July 1976 onwards. Front right being the hardest to find 62850-N4700 and left side 62851-N4700. Right rear bumper end 85350-N4700 and left 85351-N4700

Hi Joost, The difference between the models 280Z is Non-California model distributors up to July 76: Manual, D6F4-01, dual pickups. Auto, D6F4-02, dual pickups, same as 01, but has a different vacuum advance pot. There is a 6 degree phase difference between the pickups that is activated by a temperature switch. California model distributor: Manual & Auto use the D6F4-03, both with a single pickup. When the temperature switch activates the TIU changes from one pickup to the other to retard or advance the timing. If you use this distributor with the HEI module, then connect the red and brown or brown and green. The brown is the common wire between the two pickups. Connecting the red and green to the HEI will give you a dubble wave 6 degrees apart. After July 76 they all used the single pickup distributor and matching TIU. The 78 model uses a connector plug in the TIU and a 12 volt coil, no ballast resistor. I'm not sure what the resistor value is in the 78 tacho. Being a 12volt coil, it could have a higher resistance.

Congrats, looks like a bargin. All depends what youwant to do about the seats. If you want to keep it original then you will ned to know the build date to fine the right seats. I wonder what the insurance company will consider as "cover". If you want originality, that can cost a lot. This site has a lot of options and if you call them, they should be able to help you. https://zcarsource.com/datsun-240z-parts/datsun-240z-interior-parts/240z-seats-upholstery/ A call out here in the wanted sections could find you a member wanting to part with a set.