EuroDat

I just got my 280Z Arbath system with resonator. One of those while Im at it projects. Had the downpipe off to weld in an adapter for the O2 sensor for the new ECU. It will be a couple of weeks or more before I can fit it and see how it sounds.

Some good options here. Really wasn't looking forward to wrapping the new ecu harness with adhesive tape. Especially if I go from single a canister coil to wasted spark and need access to the wiring loom. I was thinking of using spiral wrap, but the non adhesive tape and woven wrap look like better alternatives. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spiral-wrap

It should work fine. I was thinking of using something like this, but first I want to get it running with as little extra mods as possible. I would like to go with a wasted spark system eventually.

Haven't been very active the last months. Personel issues getting in the way. The ECU is fitted in the position where the original was. Removing a lot of parts not needed for the new ecu, lke the AFM, TIU, CSV, AAR. Still working out what to do with the fuel pump relay. The ECU has a system where it runs the pump for five seconds when the key is turned on and stops the pump when the distributor signal falls away. I started tinkering with the exhaust downpipe last weekend and made an adapter for the bosch 4 wire lamba sensor. That ws a challenge getting the three bolts out without breaking any off. Ill try to get the adapter welded in on the weekend and the new exhaust all fitted up. I'll take some photo's of my progress this weekend. A nice surprise came in today. Ad was so kind to drop off the new Abarth exhaust personally and say hello. Nice present for my birthday. It's been on my "wanna have list" for a long time. Unfortunatly I'll only have the weekend to work on it, as next week I'm back off to Aus.

I have a very simple trick to disable the coil. Run a wire from the cigarette lighter to the tiu and connect it to the wire goint to the coil. When you press the cig lighter, the coil trigger goes to ground through the lighter. If you are concerned with the lighter popping out over a long period of cranking then you can fill the lighter element with solder. No extra wires by the coil to indicate some kind of anti theft device and running a hot wire directly to the coil positive won't help them either. When I leave the car, I just simply push the cig lighter in.

You should be able to drill out the rivits and fit the correct bracket for your situation. The rivit holes should line up. I would try aluminium rivits because the vertical bars are aluminium and hard steel can distort the hole. And now some pictures of the finished job;)

Hi Mark, Unfortunatly I don't have that section. Only have sections of the engine, cooling system, transmission and suspension. I think you can workout the principle function from Mart's diagram. I know a guy in my village who is restoring an american import 280ZX, but I think he has an european rust bucket he is driving around.

The parts are on the way. You should have them over a week.

Here is a photo of the two you need and one of the type you have now. If you want them, they are yours. Pm me.

You have the wrong 240Z grille for your 240Z. Yes they are different. You have one with the short middle horizontal bar and you should have the one with four long bars at the top and three middle length bars. That grille has the vertical locating tabs on the outer lower mount. You can see them in my photos. The second type is a little difficult to see clearly because a 280Z grille is laying on top. I can post some better photos of the two ypes later. I have the brackets if you want them. Just drill out the rivits and replace the bottom mounts.

Wow, member since aug-2005 and this is your first post. Looks neat. I wouldn't know what its worth, but goodluck selling/trading.

Im with you Captain, don't think I would survive it either.

Hi Cliff, The photo on amazon looks like a vented disc, maybe just a generic photo. You are running non ventsd with the standard caliper right? You are right, they look nice and kind of put the rear drums to shame. Thats what is holding me back. Once u start, where do u end.... Merry christmas

That has hit a rough patch. I don't have the time to work on it atm. With family and flying back and forth to my father is starting to take its toll. I hope to get some quality time on the Zed between christmas en new year. Your engine bay is really going to look nice when its done, judging by the work you have done so far and what you are gathering. Real eye candy. Take care and enjoy chrissy/new year with the family. Chas

Hi Mark, Its ben a while since I checked in on your project. Nice stuff you are gatherong, looking goods as always. Keep the photos coming. Chas

I would be very carefull with these tables on the internet. Everyone does there best to be helpfull, but some of the information is poorly sourced. If I remember correctly that part number for the 240mm was still in use until recently and many other models used it. They don't cost much so I would just ordr it and then you know it will work. Are you going to lighten it like in the drawing in the link I posted (ID:2)? It won't be as light as the findanza, but you should get it down to about 16lbs. You will notice it, I did

Nice work Jason. Looks good and fits well. The 240Z bumpers should work better on the 260Z because they have the side recesses for the bumper like the 240Z. The 280Z rear quarter doesn't have them which then pushes the bumper out a bit. Chas

Arrh, be carefull buying the flywheel. It is for the 240mm clutch, that is clear, but they do not mention the weight in your link. The 225mm flywheel are all 23ibs, but the 240mm came in 23 and 28lbs. The 28lbs was used in the trucks. Why not go for the Findanza aluminium flywheel with the standard 240mm clutch. That will give you about 10lbs weight reduction over the standard 225mm setup. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fiz-143281/overview/year/1983/make/nissan/model/280zx BTW: The standard 240mm flywheel and clutch will increase the weight a little over 2lbs compared to the 225mm setup, because of the heavier pressure plate has more metal/surface area. Chas

If you are just swapping the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing collar, you will have no problem. They are basically the same except for the early series I 240Z. I don't know which ywar your 240Z is, but the series I had a different height pressure plate and throw out bearing collar so you can not mix parts. Here is a little background on the different types per model.

Hi Dave, Im with Zed Head on giving incorrect advice. Never accured to me the csv would fire just on the starter function. I thought it needed AFM or oil presure to activate. I think I might need to read the fsm too I replaced all my fuel lines with new rubber and used a rubber line the the csv so I could test it when I was looking for my leak down. that way I could clamp it shut with vice grips and two pieces of aluminium strip. My leakdown was in the check valve in the fuel pump. Your problem would frustrate the crape out of me. Nothing worse then problems that come and go. I have a problem with my ECU. I have three of them, but they all make the engine run differently, feels different to drive and they all have problems. One works really well and its in the car now, but it starts playing up every now and them. It even left me standed on the side of the road. That is why Im playing with an aftermarket system, just don't have the time to work on it atm. Goodluck with your search.

Dave, You said you check the fuel injectors on the fuel rail. So they are not leaking, but could it be a leaking csv. That could create an over rich condition that would that time to clear and get theengine to fire up. Its not leaking at a fast amount so you wouldn't notice it undr normal driving, but standing still it could puddle and vapourise and stay in the intake until you crank it over. You could unscrew it and do a visual check. Another thing to scratch off the list.

OMG, its the frigging hobby tractor with the snow chains again My garage is just as bad. The Zed is in for the winter and hidden behind all the other junk and garden furniture. Not that I had much room to start with. Mark, Your project is looking great. A lot of work going on here for sure, but when it's finished you will know it's a solid car and a car to be proud of.

Sounds like it could be something getting stuck in the check vavle at the pump and then clearing or something like that. Are you running a filter between the tank and pump? That might stop it from hapening again. Loosing fuel pressure is not a big problem, as long as it not through the injectors, csv or leaking externally. Its just irritating and takes longer to start the engine. Some people wire a switch to activate the pump and manually prime it before starting.

Hi Dave. I made this procedure for testing different sections of the fuel system. It might help you narrow it dowm. If you find any misstakes, let me know. Ill correct then and update it. Instruction - Fuel Pressure Test 280Z RevA.pdf

WOW, thats your solution to the running rich problem. Me like. Looks like a neat job. Can you tell us a little more about the swap? You can't leave us hanging like that