EuroDat

They where probably experimenting with more than just LSD. Some sort of wierd Ned Kelly Datsun come Landrover ad. Some poor bloke has probably bought that Z and is now wondering why he can't get more than 15000 miles out of a set of tyres and he for the life of him just can't get those dam doors to shut right.... BGM, man you must have a lot of time on your hands to watch this vintage materialLOL I not sure this falls under the category "Cool videos", could I might be alone on this one;) Chas

I stand corrected. I didn't know the 3.9 came out in the US models. Thought it was only in the non US 5speeds. Learning something new all the time when it comes to these cars. But I did quote the early 71B 4speed as the same as the 280Z 4speed, which it is not. The 240Z used a similar ratio setup as the 720 trucks in the 80's had in the 5 speeds. Anyways if he has the other ratio (3.364) then he would end up with a 12.1 ratio compared to the 11.2 he would of had with the original 4speed. Chas

Excellent work. Thanks for the quick update.

A little clarity. Regarding the pre August 79 or 2+2 engine transmission combination. The ratios 1st through to 4th will be the same as what you now have, but then you will have an extra 5th gear for highway cruising. Its after 79 when they changed to the close ratio 71B transmissions. Those have a high 1st gear specially when used with the 240Z difff ratio. Chas

Do you know when in 79? The transmission could be the same as the 280Z which had the same ratios as the 72 240Z , but with the 5th gear. They changed over around August 79 I think. Another point, if it came from a 280ZX 2+2 it will be the same as the 280Z, but with the heavy duty clutch.

I noticed a crossed wire in the Illumination circuit for the Water temperature/Oil pressure gauge a while back. Didnt think it was worth mentioning, but if there is a revision, then it can be added. This colour wiring diagram is truly awsome. Thanks for all the effort Wayne. I printed it on an extended A1 format and it hangs on the wall of my garage. So much better than the FSM. Chas

Just to add to djwarner post. You can get the o-rings from the local Subaru dealer. They only cost about $4.50ea. Its rare that they leak though because they are static gaskets and they are not exposed to any load forces like the diff cover gasket.

An option could be the aluminium 240mm fidanza flywheel with the standard 240mm pressure plate and clutch disc. It would be about 11lbs lighter than the standard clutch. That is around 30% weight reduction on the standard 225mm flywheel and clutch at 37lbs. It can handle 50% increased torque and still have the standard clutch peddle feel.

The so called "240mm" flywheels were fitted to a wide variety of datsuns/nissans like the Z 2+2, ZX turbo, 200SX, 240SX, 300ZX and 720 trucks etc. The 240mm used in the Z(X)2+2 and ZX turbo used a 23lb flywheel with 9 pressure plate bolts and the 3 dowels are closer to the outer bolts. If you have a 240mm flywheel and it has 6 bolts, then you probably have the 720 truck flywheel used on the L and Z series engines. I have never seen one of these, but I have seen specs with the weigh around 29lbs. Pressure plate with disc weighs about 18.5lbs for the 240mm and around 14.5lbs for the 260Z, 280Z & ZX coupe. The early 240Z had a thinner pressure plate which was lighter again. Clutch clamping pressure 240mm - 750lbs 225mm - 550lbs Chas

Welcome to the club GW. Your car looks nice and clean in the photo. Like you said, members here are friendly and willing to help. I have a 77 as well that is pretty much stock and Im slowly restoring between other projects. Enjoy Chas

Going by photo 6 looks like Mitchell 10km north of Camberra. It a pity to see a project stop have way. Good luck with the sale.

I have never done it, but I remember reading in a threw threads that they dropped the pan and remove the oil pick up (two M8 bolts) before they could get the pan off. It seems to make sense because its a lot lower than the crankshaft. You will know soon enough once you dropped the pan. You don't need to remove the swaybar unless you plan to remove the oil pump. The steering rack will hit before the swaybar because its a fraction higher than the cross member. My experience while changing engine mounts. Things to check while lifting: Your top radiator hose and the heater hose to the back of the block will be points to check when lifting the motor. The back heater hose can really strain the fittings in the cabin if its tilted a lot. Its short and makes it less fleaxible compared to the one going to the front of the engine. The bottom radiator hose is generally long enough to move 1". The fan shroud on the radiator gets in the way if you move the engine more than 1/2" or more. I had to unbolt the shroud.

Jon, I did more or less the same thing you are planning to do. I used a Z jack so it wouldn't take up too much room and rope from both strut towers stop the engine moving around. Chas

I seen this 240Z 72 today when I was at the Nissan dealer next to them. http://www.erclassics.com/Datsun-240Z-classic-car-for-sale-931.phpn I don't think there is not a panel without a dint in it of some kind. Maybe the roof. Seats have been recovered and all the rubber is old and brittle. Might of been a Cal car before it came to Europe. At €9900 he is asking a lot imo. Chas Chas

A bit of bad luck. Looks like it was dislodged when you did the head and popped out with the first startup. Probably that click sound you heard. Here is a thread over on Ratsun Timing Chain Wedge - Engine - Ratsun Forums. Post #3 has a good photo of what has happened. Chas

That photo looks firmiliar

Do you have the FSM (Factory Service Manual) and the Fuel Injection Supplement? You can download them here XenonS30. The Fuel injection supplement in down in the other guides section. It has some great diagrams showing where things are located and how they are connecte. From your discription sound like you have an aftermarket fuel rail, maybe the Pallnet fuel rail and may need to be drilled for the CSV fitting. Here is a thread from rossiz with some good photos of the fuel rail and CSV. See the first post http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/52515-refreshing-intake.html Chas

I dont know what quality bearings BD use, but all the bearing are still available through Nissan except the pilot bearing. They would have to measure it when they remove it or if its in good condition reuse it. The four available bearings will cost about $230 IIRC. If you are thinking of a rebuild, this would be probably the minimum: Side bearings: 38440-N3100 (2) Pilot bearing: 38335-N3100 NLA Pinion bearing: 38120-13201 (front) Pinion bearing : 38120-61000 (back) Front seal: 38189-N3100 Pinion shaft nut: 38216-N3100 Side seals: 38342-N3100 (2) Diff cover gasket: 38352-N3100 Breather: 38352-78600 Chas

I am with Jeff in post #8. I find is a hassle to use and therefore don't use it. If it moves to the forum, then I would like to in a separate section like: Cars, Racing & History, Products & Services etc. I can understand why Hybridz made the move to only financial contributing members selling. Stops the one offs trying to make a quick sell and never come back. The site forum is about members helping each other, not making it easier for an outsider to make a buck. My 2 cents Chas

Incorrect pinion and crown wheel contact is the main cause of diff whine. If bearings are gone than the pinion and crown will need work as well. Might be better off looking for a new diff. You can use "bearing blue" or the red stuff, can't think of its name right now, to check the contact patern and refer to fsm. Its a lot of hassle getting it right if you don't have the right special tools to measure pinion height etc. A diff specialist would have a better chance getting it adjusted. Chas

73 E88 has the emmision chambers. I think they changed around July or August 72. There was an E88 as good as identical to the E31, then they modified it and dropped the cr a little around September 71. lt is suggested that the way the E88 is stamped (type font) may be related to the different versions. I have read the the US version are different to the other markets as well after August 72. Whether that is true or not mmmm Im no expert on E88s and there is a lot of woffle on the interent. Like madkawsaid, that cam looks really nice. Cant be too long ago that it was rebuild by "Birmingham CylinderHead Service". Chas

They are NLA through Nisan and I have not heard of an aftermarket product. If they are in good condition, you should have no trouble selling. Goodluck Chas

They are NLA through Nisan and I have not heard of an aftermarket product. If they are in good condition, you should have no trouble selling. Goodluck Chas

Aluminium adapter plate good indication its from a 200SX. I don't think the trucks had the aluminium adapters, but could be. If its from the 200SX and thats stil the original bell housing, it will bolt up to a "L" series motor, but the transmission will be slanted 10degrees to the right and will cause problems with the rear transmission mount, gear stick in passengers seat, speedo cable hanging down low and and... The Z motor had the same bellhousing, but the motors were slanted to reduce height. Any 4 or 5 speed 71B bell housing will work. Chas

Welcome to the club. A couple of places you can look through to gain knowledge. Carl Becks site. Lots of good reading there. http://www.zhome.com/ And AtlanticZ is also a good place to read up on Zeds http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html I ended up with a 280Z not because I was really looking for a 280Z, but because it was the "most rust free" Zed I could find. Yes, even rust free Zeds have rust. Im not setup anymore to do major body work. The first places I look for rust are: Under the battery tray, frame rails both sides of the engine, reserve wheel tub, rear hatch deck, in behind front fender just in front of the door, rocker panel and doglegs behind door, floor pans and frame rails under the floor.. The 280Z has a primative EFI system which can be touchy if everthing is not working well. It doesn't have the "brains" of a mordern system to think for itself and compensate for failing sensors. Having said that, its a system that is easy to work on an can be reliable if you want to put the time into it. Lots of members here that like to tinker on this system and willing to offer advice. I would try to find something that is driving ok, needs some work and as little rust a possible. No strange noises from the engine. Avoid someone elses abandoned project. Well that a start. Others will pitch in;) Chas