EuroDat

Guy, Thats a neat looking engine. You going to tease us with a video when its running?

I think they will fit but the wiring connector is different and the 280Z has the extra wiring for the brake switch warning light. The 240Km faces are really rare these days. Most 240Z's I have seen here come from the states and have the Miles faces. You will need to find a European or maybe Australian Z and those markets were small compared to the US. Chas

Hi Ray, Grats to you. Thats a really "rare" find you have there. Looking at the photos it looks in great condition. The front yard special doesnt look that bad either except for the rust in the lower panel area. Now a good hoarder would have it up on blocks with grass growing up through the bonnet. Chas

Hi Herman, Great job you doing restoring the dash. The step for step photos show how much work it is to get a good result. Looking forward to seeing the progress. Im thinking of doing this job now winter is almost here. I still have a full cap on my dash and not sure what the condition of my dash is. My concerns are: - It has a cap so its probably bad or worse than yours. - How brittle are the "good" sections. If you push hard on it with your thumb, will it crack and form a crater? - and the same concerns as Zedyone although mine is always in a garage so the aging process will be slower. Keep posting the results. I dont think any other job beats a dash restoration for time and money spent to "Bling factor" results. Chas

Hi Chris, The controller in your link has a built in 70Amp relay, but that doesnt mean your fan will pull that much. RelaYs have an over capacity to help prevent the contacts burning. You need a fuse to suit the fan your using. Do you have and specs for the fan your planning to use? Chas

Yer, Vintage Rubber is the way to go. I have had seals from them and they fitted like the original. By far the best IMHO. Chas

Hi Jeff, Sad to see you sell after all that good work you have done. Curtis sold me some taillight and stuff a while back. He went out of his way to help. Your car has gone to a good home. Goodluck with your search for a replacement. Chas

I have a photo of me and Jim somewhere. Its was taken back when he reaced his JPS BMW. He always tried to take the time to chat to fans. At that speed the kangaroe didnt come of to well. Altough Jim Richards hit a kangaroe on the mountain in the 90's and it hopped away and he limped back to the pits. The cameraman filmed the roe hopping away in the distance. Chas

Thats a bit of bad luck with the stud, but at least your taking the right approach to fix it. Chas

Yer, the two great rivals (Holden and Ford) against each other to the bitter end. I loved watching Goerge Fury and Allen Moffat battle it out on the mountain in the Nissan bluebird and RX7. http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=allan%20moffat%20rx7&source=web&cd=6&ved=0CDwQtwIwBQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DTbzcTkkiYS4&ei=cm1aUpviAenx4QSqgIHQDg&usg=AFQjCNGG8ipmPKT1CjEp9gZGS-6JIYnunQ&bvm=bv.53899372,d.bGE Nissan started winning a lot with Fury, Richards, Schaife and Seaton in the Skyline GT-R until 1992 when the rules changed and Nissan could no longer comply until now with there V8 powered Altima. In 1992 they Richards and Schaife won when the races was stopped due to really bad weather. Their car was crashed on the mountain and still won. Not really the way Nissan wanted to end, but thats racing. Bathurst Great Moments: 1992 When Jim Richards called them a pack of... - YouTube Nissan Altima V8 Supercar unveiled |Â CarAdvice

Thats a strange noise or my smartphone is distorting it. Does it make this noise when you drive it? The reason Im asking is Im just trying to eliminate things like the needle bearing between the input and output shafts. If it does not make the noise in 4th, that could be it. If the flywheel is loose, depressing the clutch will push it back against the crankshaft and reduce or stop the noise. Sounds feasable. You could check it by taking the starter out and checking the flywheel for movement. Rotate the engine to different positons. If some bolts are still tight you might miss it. Chas

Just seen the spectacular finish of the Bathurst 1000 in Australia. Mark Winterbottom won it in a Ford with only 0.47 seconds lead on second place. Nissan entered 4 cars with the best ending 18th. One Nissan did not finish, Todd Kelly and David Russel's Nissan hit a kangaroe and had limped back to the pits. http://www.foxsports.com.au/motor-sports/v8-supercars/live-blog-all-the-v8-supercars-action-from-the-supercheap-auto-bathurst-1000/story-fn2ms9um-1226738973134 No Cookies | Herald Sun http://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=bathurst%201000%20preview%20highlights%20reel&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CC4QtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DvJWW1G8cCSs&ei=aVdaUqKkF5CV0QXV7oHQBw&usg=AFQjCNFL_s7F842K0ANcYpZOj4ORx1PjmA&bvm=bv.53899372,d.d2k Chas

Hi David, Welcome to the club. I'm not going to carry on about costs. Its been handled already by other posters and with good reason. You can find a good design utility to help find interchangeable parts in the L series engines here: Engine Design Utility Good luck and above all have fun Chas

Hey OJ, I thought you fell of the planetLOL Long time no see.

That paint job is nothing short of brilliant? Hats off to the painter. Not to mention all the prep you did to enable him to achieve it.

Bart, Enjoy it while you can. I have a feeling winter will hit us shortly. Have fun in the rally. Chas

The lens comes out as a whole unit. Its glued into the taillight housing (white back section) with a glue something like windscreen sealer. To change the amber section only, you will need to dismantle the lens itself. Its in three sections and glue with compisite resin. With the plastic being so old the chances of getting it apart and not breaking or damaging the other red and clear sections is not good. The repro sets looks nice, but I cant use them here because they make them without the reflector section in the parking light lens. They wont pass the roadworthy check here or you need an inspector that does'nt happen notice it;) Chas

Its good to hear you found one in such good condition. I didnt like that old 260 one much. Captain. Thanks for the info. I didnt know about the AC Delco ones, but I had seen them on another car and the owner didnt know the brand. All his bushes were red except these on the TC rod. He said the PO changed them. I ended up using a set of original rubbers for the back side. It certainly made it flexible compared to the original PU bushes I had. Chas

Captain. Did you buy this setup as is or is it made up from two sets? I have not seem them like this before, but I have seen them with two of the black ones. Your set up looks like it solves the stiffness problem. The black rubber with the deep grooves will allow it to flex when needed and its on the back so it wont alter the alignment geomentry. Chas

That one looks pretty bad. I would do my best to find another. You would think they were common because people change them for performance rods. Goodluck searching. Chas

I removed mine lenses by soaking the taillight in a bucket of really hot water. The hot water heats it evenly and them I could use a screwdriver to gently lever it out. It didnt put up much resistance after all the years aging the glue. Take your time and be gentle, dont force it. Getting the glue out took time and repeatedly immersing the taillight in hot water and scrapping the glue out. I have also heard of people using a heat gun, but I found it difficult to get the heat evenly around the lens without running the risk of melting or burning it. The chrome strip has one of those slip over spring washers with barbs. They are hard to get off without damaging the strip. I used an o-ring pick to work the ring off. After that it comes of easy. Chas

If you have not played with the order of things, I cant see how the bush did anything. I think the PO might have assembled it wrong which could explain the failure. Is the other side assembled like his? I had those same PU bushes you are/were using. They affected the steering in bumpy corners when cornering hard. The car seemed to skip over the bumps. When I had them out, I fitted one TC rod without connecting it to the control arm. It was so stiff, there was almost no flex in it at all. The rod did most of the flexing. The PU bushes have a small groove around the outside. The deeper the groove the more flex and less stress on the TC rod. I ended up changing to the T/C rod kit form MSA Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts. On the back side I used a standard bushing kit. Just need one kit to do both side because you only use half of the kit per rod Motorsport! Tension Rod Bushing, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts. The flex was a lot better and the car now steers better. I have seen kits with the TC bushes that have grooves 8mm and even deeper. I dont know if they are any better than the original, since most of the rubber has been removed at that point meaning all the forces transfer through a smaller area of rubber. Chas

Now thats uncanny. Two poeple looking for auto tranny cooling lines. Dont see that often. Esprist is right. It should not be hard to fabricate a new one. A brake/clutch service centre could make one easy if you show him your exampe. Or you could try your local car wreckers for a japanese auto and adapt it. Chas

like you mentioned. I think everyone throws them away. Your probaby a loner doen a reverse conversion. My I ask why you are changing the 5spd for an auto? You might be better off making new ones. The originals often rub against each other an becaome very thin to the point where they can leak and thats 35 years of rubbing. Goodluck with the swap Chas

That looks a lot better now. The age old saying; practice makes perfect. Ill probably nether get enough practice to quote that for myself;) Chas