CNIXZGO
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Everything posted by CNIXZGO
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Whats a good way to test the ignition coil? I'm trying to eliminate it as a cause for poor accelaration which seems to be worsening each day. So far I have eliminated the pcv, vacuum leaks, AFM is a year old, injectors seem to be firing fine using the screwdriver test, My suspect list: 1. Coil, i want to replace it anyway, it looks like the darn original! 2. clogged fuel screen in filter 3. shot vacuum advance I already have a new dist. cap and new NGK plug wires whichi will replace this week. thanks
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in my tailight harness and Chloe at Midwest Z got me a used harness for 10 bucks! Takes about 10 minutes to take out the old harness and reinstall. One of my sockets had melted and couldnt make contact anymore.
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How much they charge for all the work?
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front bumper ends on Ebay a couple days ago. You're gonna need at least one new one on the passemger side. Sorry to see/hear about your baby. It looks totally fixablre to me.
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this past summer. Is it in the shock area? Do you hear it when you go over any slight bump? It might be the same problem i had: a loose gland nut on your strut. Remedy: Jack up the car ever so slightly until the tire is just off the ground. then look through the spring and you should see where the gland nut screws into the housing. you will prob have to lift up the strut boot. Get Channel Lock pliers and grab the nut, it'll be hard to do and you may have to adjust the jack to get to it. turn and tighten as much as you can and you should be good to go.
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Awesome Tooch! When you get to Nebraska, tell us what it's like there as far as registration price, gas prices, etc. -
The Tire Rack dot com has them for 37 bucks for KYBs, at least they did this summer when i bought some.
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I switched wheels from the turbine type to the mags, tell me what you think, Nick
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If you're tired of that dul charcoal looking rear panel, here's what i did, I first sanded the whole panel with varying degrees of sandpaper, i then masked off the taillights, their chrome, the whole bumper and all the hatch area that you dont want overspray on. Then use short quick sprays of enamel paint. I used Duplo's Black Matte from Auto Zone. i let it dry really well for 2 hrs or so. then i carefully rermoved the masking material. Peel it off slowly. You may have to touch up a bit around the taillights. Viola, it looks a lot better and you dont have to remove the tailights and the delicate chrome-like trim. I buffed out the chrome after the paint process. -
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for giving bad readings. My original unit even LEAKED oil. You can order them from Auto Zone for about 25 bucks or get a Nissan brand one for about 40 or so. Depends on what you want to get. As long as you KNOW you have oil in there and its not leaking, you should be OK. Or like the others said, get a mechanical gauge to ease your mind.
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about the outer tie rods? if you are, then its ok if threads show, mine have some showing on either side when installed, when you get a front end alignment, they'll be adjusted.
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I really cant complain but I think you would have MUCH better luck if you guys lived a driveable distnace from them, it seems like all the complaints i hear are from people who deal with them stricly on the Internet or phone. I dont doubt those stories though! I'm just saying better to deal with them in person as I've always done, Plus i believe they still give a 10 percent discount for 240z.org members. I get mine thru Group Z!
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all my old Bosch's with NGKs and my Z runs like new! It's a HUGE Difference!
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Page 30 of the latest MSA catalog, you can get them with either logos or NO logos, 64.95 and 74.95, Nick
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Window Channel felt? I see it all the time on Ebay for 50 bucks for a whole roll that is supposed to do both windows
