CNIXZGO

Thats an excellent question, can anyone answer this one?

remove the entire console and feed the radio thru the back of the slots in the console. i dont think it'll fit through the front. not sure if you have a CD set or an older model with posts. If you have a posts model, just secure it in the console with the retaining nuts on the post

I'm looking for a harness for my left rear tailight. The one i have has a one socket in which the spring is broken and does not make good contact with the bulb. Thanks

this is closed now! about 2 yrs ago: Wizard of Z's 3185 Chicago Avenue Riverside CA 92507- Phone Number: (909) 787-0267 Order Phone: Fax Number: Have most Z parts. Specializes in parts and accessories. No catalog. Can help find hard-to-find used parts

like the alternator to me. I had this happen in my 1973 240z once on the freeway. all lights went dimmer dimmer dimmer then nothing! alternator was shot.

Just wondering since u come from calif

in Whittier where Iused to take my 240 called Mike's Z Shop, It's of painter Ave. theyre pretty good and reasonable. I dont know if you want to come that far east though.

use some weatherstrip cement to attach the boot to the firewall, Worked great on my 280z, plus when youre removing the linkage, remember to use constant, contrrolled pressure on the ball and link or else it might snap off. it'll be tough at first but it WILL come off.

I'm figuring the gland nut too, OK, so do i have to take the whole freaking assmbly apart or can i tighten it through the springs?

Thursday morning : Well I have narrowed it down to either the spring seat or the strut top mounting insulator. Every time i go over a bump I get this clunk from atop the strut tower in the rear. My question is Do these parts wear out or come loose? I also might suspect the gland nut has come loose on me and it needs to be tightened. I've already tightened the top strut nut. Does anyone know what might be making this sound??? Maybe it needs new bump spots, i dont remem ber having those installed when I had the KYB installed.....My car is a 78 280z

Well Victor, i think i have the same problem as you just described. Today I took off the cover in the interior that goes over the strut housing. I then held my finger on the nut to see if I could feel any kind of vibration while I drove down the street. Well it does sound loose and i can feel the vibration of the clunk when i go over a bump. i didnt take it to work Sunday for fear of that strut totally busting on me. I'm going to take it back to where i got them installed because I need to have the spindle pins replaced anyway. hopefully it's something that just needs to be tightnened and i'm glad it's not a bad bushing or bad diff. mount

pushing down on the rear bumper also and i CANT reproduce the sound. I'm going to check the strut area anyways on sunday and see if i can find anything else.

Ok, this noise started last weekend in my 1978 280z. I think I went too fast over a speed bump at work and now i have a "clunk" noise when i go over bumps. right now it only does it when i go over any kind of bump, i got under the car today because I thought a nut came loose on my diffy, or mustache bar, everything looks OK and tight. I just got new KYB struts so i dont think that's it. I thought maybe it's a bushing that went bad, maybe in the mustache bar or front diff. i visually inspected those areas too and it looks ok, this noise is only on the passenger side, in the rear. can any one know what elsei i can check and have this problem before? thanks Nick

those turn signals seem awfully low and crooked!!!

it comes to radio installation. I found a small mom and pop car stereo place here in MV which installed my new Kenwood (with the old fashioned posts). They charged me 120 for the unit and 40 for the install. and they did very quickly and to my satisfaction. If there's one thing i would not tackle in my 280 is radio installation, that's all i need is to blow out my brand new unit because i screwed up the wiring! haha. Later i had them do my automatic antenna. 100 bucks installed. works very nicely and it's all guaranteed!

in his writeup doesnt make sense. Like how is the 1973 model more valuable than any of the others early 70 models? Personally I'd rather have a 70 or 71 model rather than a 73. It reads like a overzealous dealer is hyping this car. Not worth more than 3,000 bucks in my eyes. and 38,000 miles???? cmon! and how can he say the seats "might be leather"?????? any idiot knows they are vinyl!!!

what I did on my 280 is remove the two sprayers and I boiled them on the stove top for about 10 minutes, that got all the gunk out of them. I then blew on both ends until I could get a nice stream of water going through them. It took about 30 minutes with one that was very clogged with who knows what. As for the tubing, I was going to get one of those expensive kits that are sold on Ebay but I just went to my local Pep Boys and bought some clear vinyl turbing and aftermarket conectors for like 10 bucks. Now i have a great washing system like new. Luckily my motor pumped strong still!!!! Nick

It sounds like you have bad bushings, ball joints and outer tie rods. Luckily I found a Z expert at my local Nissan dealer and he did a FREE 40 point inspection right after i bought my 280. See if you can get something like that, it might save you from replacing parts unnecessairly. You can buy ball joints and outer tie rods and rack bushings on Ebay real cheap! Nick

Styx's Paradise Theater, turn it up real loud!!!!

Thoughts and prayers from your buds in Calif. are with you, fstr, as you recover from your injuries. JUst stay in bed and lounge around. I can imagine it might even be hard to sit at the computer right now. Sorry about your 240 but thats replaceable and YOU are not. while you recover: Here's 3 good places to start lookin' 1) Recycler.com 2) http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/ 3) the zcar.com classifieds. let us know how u are doing ! Nick

on the market for at least eight months because i remember that car from when i was shopping for my Z back in late September. It was listed at the same price...guess his price is firm and no one wants to pay it!!!

the shaking is caused from warped rotors. I had bad shaking like yours when braking and i took it in to have the brakes looked at first. The culprit was indeed very warped rotors. Had them replaced and it took about 85 percent of the shaking away. I also had the steering rack bushings replaced and it tightened it up very nicely. Now my steering wanders a bit still but I am planning on replacing both ball joints, outer tie rods ends and TR bushings. that should take away all the shaking!

are we meeting anywhere special Sunday morning or should we just ask the parking attendants where the Group Z bunch is when we get to MSA? Nick

Why do we need to know that?