CNIXZGO

even make the screw-on ones anymore. MSA hasnt carried them in years and mine look terrible. Guess I'll have to get them redone . Gotta go with the push-on ones.

OK it looks like the XR700 will work with the 240Z whether it's MT or AT. I was thinking about the Pertronix system but that is not compatible at all with an AT.

I have searched on this subject but never really saw a solid answer. I need to switch to electronic ignition on my 1972 240Z , it has automatic transmission. Can i use the XR700 for this Z even if it has dual points or will I run into complications? Also, will my tach no longer work if I install this system? I've heard it will no longer work. And, lastly, do I need to upgrade the stock coil if I use the XR700? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Nick

He says "these are the very last ones" and he's been selling these for 3-4 years now! And that Canadian shipping is a JOKE! 110.00 bucks??? gimme a break!

i posted some pics on cardomain, most of the body work is done now and it came out pretty well. My bro in law helped me immensely as he ground out all the rust and used the slide hammer to get this body back to normal looking. The rear hatch was the most difficult to get right. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3071198

they made a gray set of NGK wires. When i bought a set about 3 years ago for my 280z, i just bought the blue wires and thought that was stock. I kinda of like the blue color, makes them stand out a bit. :cheeky:

wow I complain because I have to get up at 4 a.m. on Show Day to get ready for the 40-mile drive to Oak Canyon Park, but I guess I have it much better than anyone who is coming from out of state! I admire you guys who take a whole week or two to come out here to Cali. That's true Z love!

I emailed Charlie about another part a few weeks ago and he mentioned that he was going on vacation for the month of March but should be back by April 1. So dont fret if you havent heard from him yet. As far as that part goes. I searched far and wide for that part and came up with nothing. Banzai said they dont make that part anymore and yes Z man is a little high. I just went in another direction on my 240z and got some POR15 body filler and rust converter and went over that area very very carefully. I poked and prodded and basically rebuilt that area or as best i could. It's much better than it was and it seems very firm. Got underneath all the caulked part and tore all that our and rebuilt it with more Por15 filler. Hardens like stone and it looks pretty good.

I'm going to be undertaking this task in the next week or so! Hope mine comes out as yours did well!

when you drive your Z into a Nissan dealer (i occasionally do for an oil change) and they don't even know what kind of car it is. I mean some of the salesmen weren't even born yet when the 280zs came into the market. They do give lots of compliments though, but still look befuddled.

I really need a set of louvers that dont require drilling into the hatch. They are hard to find good used ones. I thnk I'll just bite the bullet and buy new ones from MSA. I really lke the louvers look but if you poll all the guys here, it'll probably be 60-40 against Louvers!

Hagerty's was very inexpensve but it was just too restrictive. Before purchasing a policy, I even called them to ask if I could drive it to work for a ONE day a week and they said well if I did I wouldnt be covered. Plus they do have mileage restrictions so you better check the fine print on your policy. I can understand their concern for keepng it in a locked garage that is ATTACHED to the house. Those were other requirements. I can just see me getting a Hagerty's insurance policy and then me having a fender bender going to work or running down to the 7-11 2 miles away and tryng to come wth a story for that one. It's just not the risk. I finally found a broker named Pollman's Insurance Agency (562-493-4411) in Orange County. They have hooked me up with American Modern Home Ins. Co. $8000 agreed value, NO mileage limits, and I can drive as much as i want and whereever i want. I just need to keep it locked up in the garage at ALL tims when not driven. lFor this I think it was like $180 a year and that includes a broker fee. It's money well spent because they do all the legwork for me!

I just wanted to second the use of this company in Canada. My strut was worthless also and it wouldn't hold even a 5-lb hatch up! I read this thread and figured why not? They completely rebuilt the insides and regassed it and sanded it down and painted the tube and bracket for me. Looks and works lke new! $127 well spent. Guy at MSA wanted $255 for a new Nissan strut! I said um yeaaahhhh let me get back to you on that one. Now my hatch stays put and it keeps that originality. Nick

and whoever thought of it is a genius! I bought two six-pound blocks at my local ice store. 99 cents a pound. I used one block for the drivers side and one on the passenger side. I placed the blocks in between newspapers and gently smashed them into smal chunks. I then picked up the newspaper and sprinkled it carefully on the tar. Immediately you could hear the snap, crackle and pop of it releasing itself from the floor pan. About an hour later, it was all done and i just carefully peeled it off in LARGE chunks! no rust-through, just small amts of surface rust and they seem pretty solid. Next up: a nice coat of POR 15 after treatment.

Yea a 92% feedback definitely makes me suspicious. The leaking coolant which is visible on the driveway also makes me suspicious. Good luck to whoever bought it with the BIN!

Well i emailed Mike McGinnis from Banzai MS and he said he no longer has the rear deck panel available. Rather than wait for him to make/get more in i've decided to tackle this rear deck area with some Power-Mesh on the hole and POR15 on the top. I've already done a Rust Converter treatment on the problem areas and it already looks 100 percent better than it did. Structurally the deck is very strong. Ive removed the TL finisher, the tail light assembles and interior cover and I can see no other rust problems on the rear panel itself, which would be directly under the deck panel. I can fill the rest of this small pinholes that you can see on the deck panel. Has anyone used POR's RestoGRIP product? it says you can use this stuff to rebuild small holes. I figure if i use that and some power mesh, i could get this looking good.

Thanks for posting those Jim. You're right, yours wasn't as bad as mine is now. My whole bottom lip on the hatch area is eaten away as you can see. I think it would take a hell a lot of POR/Bondo to maybe fix it. I think the best route is to remove the whole sill and weld in the new panel. Thanks again

I would just leave it original. But that's just me! I dont think these cars don't look very good with 16s. Welcome

Thanks for the advice guys. Well today I took off the rear finisher and tail- light asemblies to investigate further. I'm happy to say I did NOT find any other rust issues outside of this hatch sill from hell. I looked inside and out on the rear panel and i found nothing but solid metal. I'm going to go ahead and order the new panel from Banzai Motorsports. I figure $110 is a cheap price to pay for knowing the rust is totally gone from that area.

Thanks for the comments, the odometer reads a little over 75,000. i checked the warranty booklet and the car had about 23,000 in 1974 so I'm guessing it's 175,000 miles, but who knows. The PO had no other records, recent or otherwise. The engine sure doesnt look like it's over 100,000. My ultimate plans are to restore to full originality and keep it bone stock. I figure it'll be a year to 18 months before I'm done but i'll keep updating here.

Hi all, Well I just bought this 1972 Lime Green project. I basically bought it so my wife can join me on our Z outings and I really wanted to get a 240! The guy I bought it from had it listed on CL for $3499. I went to go look at it and I told him that he would never get that. My wife and both test drove and it runs like a rocket! Lot of pull, very powerful and no steering wheel shake. brakes are very good. Every light bulb worked except ONE license plate bulb. Has some rust issues (see my other thread in Body and Paint) but nothing horrible. I've already begun tearing out the interior and cleaning it. Had to clean up 35 years worth of spilled Coke, french fries and other gunk when i pulled out the seats. I was shocked to see that the center console had NO cracks or chips at all! the vinyl is all in great shape except on the left shock tower. where it's torn. the dash has two large cracks but we're getting a dash cap anyway. I have all the original manual and warranty. Here's some quick history on it. This car was originally sold in March 1972 at Kendall Motors Co. in Salinas Calif. Looks like it spent most of its life in Northern Calif. The guy I bought it from sold it for a friend who lives in Alameda. The originality of this car is what really struck me. No PO molested any part of this car and I fell in love with it. I offered 2,000 for it and he laughed. I saw he had it listed for $2900 in another CL (orange county) so initially I thought $2,000 was fair. We left emptyhanded but the more i thought about the more i felt i low balled the guy. I took in consideration the condition of the engine and all the originality. I emailed him back offered 2500. He came down to 2750. who am I to quibble over $250! So i bought it for $2750 and the more I tear into, the more I think I got a pretty good deal. Here's pics of it. I plan to totally restore it to its 1972 glory. It's a 12/71 mfg date which is kinda weird to me. Is it a 1971 series II or simply a 1972? anyway. any comments would be appreciated.

Hi all, just bought a nice 1972 240z, 12/71 mfg date. I need some advice on a few rust spot. The worst spot is the hatch spot, you can see where it has rusted all the way through (see screwdriver pic). Also, I have a quarter-sized hole on the right-hand side. The driver-side dogleg is almost rusted through. I have little to no body work experience. My questions is do these spots need full welding repair or can i use bondo/por-15 repairs. My floorpans are totally rustfree and i'm going to do a por-15 there and in the spare tire wheelwell. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

I tried using some cheap silver heating duct tape from ACE hardware but the adhesive eventually wears off. I'll be trying your method next!

he does overcharge for shipping. It's the old buyer beware i guess since he doesnt provide a shipping calc. I bought four heater hoses (15.00) clamps from him two weeks ago and he charged me 7 bucks for shipping. His postage was less than a dollar and he used an old USPS box to send it in. Oh well, he has parts that even MSA doesnt carry or is "out of stock" in. Z-Connexion seems like he has more fairer prices and shipping charges.

Yea, definitely looks like a 280z hood to me. Gonna need a lot of work