jeanp

For those interested I found this post. I would have love finding it before a did my repair. But this is basicaly the fix I did. And there is a lot of pictures. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

I think i can help on this. Just re did all this wiring getting rid of unnesseary wires (those that are used for the points) It is pretty straight forward. Your Big black wire is from the ignition swith and is Ok on the rear side of the ballast resistor. the red that goes to the pertornic is suppose to be ther also (Nothing else on that post) In the front of the balast you have a green and yellow (this goes to the tach) on the negative of the coil the black that goes to the pertronic on the positive of the coil the black and White (this goes to the tach also) That is it Everything else is for the points and not required. Good luck!

Ok found the problem The problem was in the flasher switch. I saw on the pdf diagram that midle position hooked gy-wr and wb so when you push the brake there is 2 mechanical contact pedal switch and the flasher switch. I disasembled the switch it is simple if you atemp this only concern is there is a litle ball bearing that sit on a spring that can be lost if you do not take care. Do not even think of disasembly in the car. I did crank the midle connector give back life to this little spring while i was there and reasembled. Give it try Bingo. I got brake light on left side back to work.

Thank's for advises, I will go further front as in dash to body (the one passenger side) the 3 pin connector there I get 12,2 volts on both green red and green black wires when brake pedal is pressed. Front left flasher and hazard work fine. I did not think of going further front as i get the right voltage at (dash to body). Do this tonight i will be back.

Thank's for reply, I have seen that post but it does not help me. I cannot figure why at on the pdf from this page connector dash harness to body harness I have 12,2 volts on both green red and green black in the back at rear panels connector i got 11.x volts on both sides a bit higher the side that it does not work (green red) if i jump wire one side to the other right to left lights work. If i do it on the connector dash harness to body harness left side works ???

For those interested, I did change my inner choke cables with .055 piano wire. like http://woodworkerb.com explain and it works realy good that is a realy cheap fix. So i am done with the carb project. everything work fine there.

Lines where new there was a round flat peace of junk the size of the hole in the botom of the bowl. it was stuck in the hole the hard part of the bowl not in the line itself. it was sometime closing everything and sometime open. It may have come from the job i had done on my fuel rails. I had them powder coated last winter also. So i cannot say that paltech left this there or it traveled from the fuel rail.

Hi, Another bizare broblem, my left brake lights and flasher do not work anymore. this is what i tested. Bulbs OK, then I cleaned left harnest and connectors. did not solve anything. So started diag. Did a lot of looking around and figured that left feed is green and red wire and left feed is green and black. I checked in the from under dash right side there is a 3 pins connector with the green red (left) and green black (right) feeds. I jumped the brake switch (no partner to do these test) I jumped wired the feed green black to the green red left brake light where on did jump wired green black to green black right brake light where on (i presume my rear harnest is good from there) tried jumping green red feed to both sides (no luck there) test both feeds with a test light they both turn the test light on. test those feed with mutimeter both equals 12.2 volts. How can this be possible? I dont understand. Anybody have a clue? Ok did had a little drawing to explain maybe better. So test i did is under the dash i unpluged the 3 pin connector and crossed connected B to C to see the if my harness was good and actualy left brake light were bright as normal. Note also everything other lights works. backup light, and night light. Flasher do not work but i get same result if a cross connect it. electric.tif

As per pertronics (they sent me a ground and voltage test sheet) i check resistance between aluminum plate of ignitor and batery ground they say max .2 ohm i got 0.0 they say test voltage car not running and running. on coil + i got 5.5 not running and 12.0 running (this is on the coil) before tach on the switch black wire i got 8.0 and 14.0 they say normal would be 14.2 on + of the coil is it normal that i loose 2 volts with the tachometer. I am wired like the attach drawing.

The car is su carburators just rebuilt last winter, Timing and ajusting carbs is done. Plugs are new and gap verified. I did not notice any weard acting of the tach needle when this apen I can tell it does not loose fire on all cylinders probably one or two.

I am thinking of my plug wires (they are not very old as per mileage) but they are 6 years old what is the average lifetime for these.

Hi need help again, My car have a strange isue i saw a few post here that talk about it with no clear solution. I run pertronics pickup and 3ohm flame trower this worked fine for a few year 5 i think now it run inequal sometime it runs fine and sometimes at around 4k rpm it dies i lose fire on some of the cilinders and this only apens under load. I tried using 1.5ohm original coil same thing. tryied to bypass tachometer work for about 30miles than it started to do same thing, Note the 30 miles i did were on the highway and not to fast lets say around 70mph. any input would be great. Jean-Philippe

Ok for those interested in this project. Did have a hardtime tuning the carbs. First there was a little peace of junk in the gas tube the hard part under the float bowl. This thing was acting like a butterfly but without control on it so sometimes the carb was ok and sometimes there was no or almost no gas going to the jet. It got obvious when at a moment it shut and stayed shut. After removing it I rebalanced everything And the carbs are running great now. Just need to change a choke cable that is not working properly. I would recommand Paltech Anytime. But you need to know how to adjust and debug carbs when you put them back in. This is not plug and play.

Had a problem like this just remove the plastic between float bowl and btom of jet. Make sure it is not blocked. stick a unfold paperclip in the tube under the float bowl going inward the bowl it may be blocked.

So here are some photo's for grannyknot and others i dont think i have to identify the before and after. Note Paltech did not took very long to do the job I am the slowman here i am putting these in know but they were sitting here for 3 1/2 month. I am a skier and this winter was a good skier winter. I did Wrap my header while i was there because i cooked the front hose that connect to the carb for heating purpose when in cold weather last year. Looking at these photo's think i need a new radiator !

240 z of course unless you want to drive it everyday, if so buy a toyota echo, pontiac firefly or any other car for every day and a 240z as you z car. you know you may keep it for the rest of your life.

Thank you Bonzi Lon and Grannyknot. For reply`s I did find some reviews in the MG world he is well knowed. here is a link http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1870887 And I also found a SU guy with this link that seem to know what he is doing in NY dont know if hw would work on Datsun carb`s. http://joecurto.com/meet-joe-curto I will post pictures.

Both, Paltech seem to do a better polishing job but i have no clue about how there carb perform. They advertissed as they bench test the carb witch is a good thing has of balancing. I know that the outside polish will not stay because i will not put the hours to polish them myself. I looked at Z therapy also and review are there but not all are Yeah these are the best ever. I can`t find review`s on paltech. that is why i ask here. Note that i already contact (left a message to Z therapy). PS i do my homework before now. I bought a refurbed engine from datsun parts llc witch was a not realy a good buy. had to have it redone cost me twice what should have been.

Any one have used paltech for 240z su carb rebuilt. Need feed before having mine done. Regards!

Running pertronic ignition with stock distributor and flame trower coil. sorry about 11;35 it cant be the shaft need to be broken to do so. 11:25 I just realized that i have unstable fire on cilinder 1 and 6 i changed my plugs started the engine ran pretty bad stop it removed all plugs cilinder 1 and 6 never fired. took a minute to test compression as i was there with no plugs on the engine 150, 149, 150, 150, 150, 150 i was amased how even the readings are. I think i need a new distributor cap. even if it realy look OK Checked wires with OHM tester wires are OK

Found a picture in one of Blue post and 11:35 looks OK how can it be that the metal part of my roter gets where number 5 cable plugs in. How can it be that the engine starts with the move of every wire one slot counterclock wise. with correct alignement of the shaft??? Jean-P

Have you ever changed wheel bearings on a small trailer (let say boat trailer) it is the exact same. The only difference is you have to remove the calipers. on a Z car. Goog luck! Jean-P

A little drawing igintion.pdf

Hi, need help again, I did receive my engine (the one that came from DPLLC) had it re rebuild when i tried to fire it up nothing went OK did check lots of things. then realized that at TDC on cylindre 1 the rotor in the distributor was pointing to number 5 plug (one notch to far) looked at datsun books and they say to aligned the distributor shaft at the projection of 11:35 and the drawing show the shaft at 11:35 witch is lets say \ i did switch all my plug wires one pin counter clockwyse and the engine started. Is the drawing wrong and should it be aligned / like if you look at it from top at 01:35 Should i remove the oilpump and align this at 01:35 Jean-P