jeanp

Well siteunseen you will look a bit dumb once in a while when you stop a the a red light or stop letting go the gas a bit to promtly the engine will stall. but this is not a big deal. I am putting back my engine in this weekend then allignement next week And the orange Z of Magog will be back on the streets. So much work done this winter you woudnt beleive.

Ok guys i did take a chance and order a 9" 20 holes fidanza friction plate And i have a match it fits perfect.

I did put an engine in last year and actualy did bolt the header before it is a lot easyer to bolt on and there is plenty of room when you dump it in. For those that now the story i will put the engine back again next week or so and will do exact same.

Thank's for quick responses measurements friction plate outside 228mm inside 146mm cannot fine any number or letters anywhere on th flywheel or friction plate and actualy i am looking to change friction plate only it as about 1/4 inch left on it i do not think i can have it flatened it would probably be to thin.

Hi need your help again the PO of my 240Z did change the flywheel for a 11pound aluminum I cannot figure from where it comes and was wondering if the friction plate is standard or if I need same brand i am putting photo of the flywheel

Brought some new rings and gasket to the engine shop The mechanic there showed me those rings the expanders qhere actualy cut we think cause none of them look alike the other one as of the ends of them and they were to short if you enter them alone in the cilinder. Top and botom ring where inverted top was on botom and botom on top. And they where upsid down. In the head angles where no good. So the thing is costing me a rebuild, a set of rings and gaskets. The strange thing is that every parts in there are new you can see it. valves, piston, rods springs, chain name it is new. cylinder 1 piston has a bit of wear it was way to tight. But as i only did 1000 miles it is not ruine. On the good side. Gave me the oportunity to paint engine bay. Maybe purist of you will not like it i did paint it in black well my car is not a stock car body is in realy good shape but almost every part of it was changed so there is no way i will bring it back to stock.

Well for those that can be interested in buying an engine from California Datsun. I sent it to a local shop the bores where all the same except for cylinder 1 it was smaller. The honning was poorly made. The head job was realy rough. All oil ring where broken my mechanics think they where cut intentionaly without knowing any reason to do so. So what i think now is that Al takes an engine appart and put a cheap new parts kit in it and voila it is called a rebuild engine. some of the compression rings where to small.

Actualy i did retorque the head bolts. Did check wipe patern.

If Al is willing to give me 100% money back i will send him back the engine he sold me. It have about 1500 miles on it and cilinder one is on leak test 90% cilinder 2 30% 3456 are more normal but not hurray top notch. When i talked to him the worst phrase i had was "it is mecanic it will fail". Well we all know that mecanic will fail but we all know that these engine are realy reliable and that they will last very long if they are rebuild OK. problems on the very first 1000 miles is not normal. If Al would be in Canada I would bring this in court and win a refund by what is called here (free translation) Implied waranty witch is a minimum that a product should give. So If Al read this and call me I will be glad to remove that engine and return it to Him even if it will cost me $300 shipping to send it. I use to have tumbs up driving my car. Now i am embarrased by this blue smoke that it makes. I am not sure if i will be rebuilding this rebuilt or rebuild the one i had. By the way 30days for an engine that will go in a car that most probably will be like mine a fun drive that goes out only in the summer nice weekends never hits rain etc. Warranty if installed by a certified mechanic. Most of Datsun owners do there mecanic themself. I actualy installed the engine myself at the end of the season so the car did a test drive in the first 30 days that is it. took 5 months before winter ends. and i realyse the poor build i bought. Jean-Philippe

Ok did a few things nothing helped did a leak test today with my friend that have the tool for it. help the bad news is cylinder one 90% leak and it leaks in the block so i will have to remove the engine and rering. Al did remove my comment from his website. And i wil give him a call as soon as i know if the ring were broken or missing.

for oil pressure i have just reading is from my original gage withch is let say 1/8 of an inch high to 1/8 of an inch low from dead center i will need to put a better gage on for more info. hope that the engine will wear in fine but for now it is burning lots of oil, there is a thing that i notice there is no clicking at all on the valves you know this datsun noticable clicking on the valves this is not there. Remember the first Z i had was 1970 it had this valve clicking this one with engine I removed had this clicking to. But that DPLLC does not click at all. I will check Wipe pattern and give it a real ride this week ( if we can have a beautifull day) eastern Canada has very bad weather lately.

And if there not need to Increase or decrase lash pad tickness. Before i ruine my cam. Ok Z-head Thank's for the link on cam wear. But please stop torturing me with this wrong decision i made going DPLLC. I did put that engine in was cheap and tought it would keep me driving the car till i am ready for the real thing under the hood. (Not that i need the car i got 4 other cars) But i am doing my resto mod keeping it drivable. And the Engine and tranny are the last i wanted to do. Rear end is done can take over 300HP braking is good to. Suspension i have all the parts for a coilover conversion that i plan on doing next winter. then i tough engine work. I know you guys are more in the all original but when i bought the car i already had mods for track like roll cage R200diif 280Z (79/80) read disk, Racing 2 piston front calipers. proportioning valve. I will keep you informed.

Well not much from the guy will need to send him either the engine or the head. Problem is i am in Quebec (eastern Canada). so I think i will have resolv this myself. Or have a good old mechanic look at it. But before that i will change all oil seals. And i want to check Wipe patern put i cannot find anything on how to do this. Anyone have measurement info??

Ok got the time to heat her up and take compression 155,155,160,165,158,160 as for the plugs they all seem ok maybe #5 a bit darker (i did color tune my carbs last week and back SU was rich before so may be residues not burned yet.) And while heating her i noticed bllue smoke after idling so i start to think those seal are no good. I will check that wipe patern info.. not sure i understand exactly waht it is.

With the first post so as everybody nows I did had to elicoil one of my valve cover hole that was stripped to.

Hay Zed head i am in these 2 pages of good reviews i think i will call him, I did send him an E-mail but he is slow on answers

I dont think it`s leaking oil because my garage floor is not covered with oil and the engine is completely clean 1 liter of oil would have leave traces if it was leaking i think.

I did reuse my old sending unit. I will order a new one i think.

Ho just remember in the breakin starting procedure sent with the motor there was adjust valve and the number given there were warm numbers And i did not check my Datsun manual i took these for cash i did adjust all valve to these numbers was suprised that they were all to tight. I ran the engine for 200 miles like this and i recheked my valves i took the number in my Datsun manual. they were all wrong to loose. But did not pass much time so i found the document shipped with the engine gave hot numbers for valves but say adjust before start. duuhh. anyway now they are OK adjusted but i did ran the engine with loose valves for about 200 miles

Thank`s for fast answers I burned a liter in 250miles, there is 750miles since rebuild and i did change oil at 400miles and there was no grind in it. I have blue smoke when i leave a red light if i push-it. If i go smootly as soon as i will push it. have blue smoke almost every time i push it after idling or just smooth riding. I do not push it near red line yet but this engine and the one before realy like to be pushed. My diagnostic would be valve seals but i cannot beleive that they were not changed. every pieces in there looks new.

Hi, i did change my engine lest fall. I had problems with my head one valve was not adjustable anymore so i bought that engine rebuilt from Datsunparts LLC think that was a mistake. The thing is burning oil and i got uneven oil pressure. It runs great pulls hard but burns oil and scarry uneven oil pressure. my other engine use to be dead center on the oil pressure gauge this one goes up and down. and i cannot figure the patern. It is not linked with reving it can be high at low rev and low at high rev and vice versa. complete aleatoire patern. Any body have an idea where to start. Thank`s Jean-P

Just to post info on that journey, I ran the car with 4degrees of camber for a summer i could not push the wheels in shaft where to long (even if a reversed the knee). Then i decided to have them rebuild so they fit by datsunspirit.com but the guy told me they are already modified (knees were reversed i know i did it myself) so i bought some new shaft from Chekered flag racing and send them to him then when he came to me and told me both shaft where same lenght so that is why i had this problem. So now i have to long unusable shaft. and a very good working set of expensive Z31 CV .

MSA sent a connector that i do not need. Actualy the connector replace the voltage regulator witch is bolted on the fender very small part to replace a big part aray!!! I just quote this for futur readers to know.

Thank's Z-head did let this thing hang and it work great. Actualy in the instruction they were saying not to use P connector put i could not figure this was it.

Hi guys question for s30's guru in you picture of my alternator in the car and new MSA alternator there is a yellow wire coming out of the MSA alternator with a sqare plastic connector that i have no clue what it is and what to do with it. all other things are the same on my car (1971 240z) alternator may have been modified by PO) MSA sent a connector that i do not need. Thank's in advance JeanP