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Yes, I did see some of that. The various scraping tools kept catching on tiny ridges around the stud mounting holes. In reading up on installing these studs I have seen both never-seize and lock-tight prescribed. Which is it? both? I was goig through the exhaust parts last night and noticed that the z store sent me the wrong gasket with the header - I have a phone call to make. Probably not going to get this done over the weekend like I had hoped.

Next question: I have new studs in hand (the studs that hold the exhaust manifold). The old studs are out of the head . How much should I tighten the new studs? Just bottom them out or tighter?

Glad it was of help to someone. A couple of things I did not mention... I coated each of the o-rings with a tiny bit of motor oil, just like I do an oil filter before installation. I installed the injectors onto the rail before I screwed them into the manifold. This worked well except that the thick plastic spacer (which is not shown in the datsun diagram BTW) wants to fall off when you flip the whole thing over to install onto the manifold. I got past this by using a piece of tape to hold them until I they were seated, like so:

The clamps I did use were the ones that came with the new injectors. I will get some of those nice Gator clamps next time I put an order together but will use these meanwhile (assuming the injector manufacturer would supply clamps that will be sufficient for at least short term service). I'll roll it outside, watch closely, and be ready with a fire extinguisher the first time I give it a try. Next question is on cleaning the old gasket material off the head. I spent an hour on it last night with some solvent (simple green) and a green scotch brite pad. It looks (and feels) good to me but I don't do this every day. Just how perfect do I need to get it? I started with a steel razor blade but got nervous about gouging the aluminum. I used a plastic scarper for a while then moved to the scotch brite. Is there a better way to clean it? How do I know when I'm done?

Yep, the new ones are magnetic but... half of the original clamps had been replaced with water hose clamps during a previous repair. Will keep this in mind in future.

Thanks for all the references and advice. The links were really helpful, especially when it came to putting things back together. I also have the Fram G3 fuel filter ready to install (and a new factory fuel filter) before I try to start this thing. I cleaned mainfold without the torch (but was tempted). I used two cans of throttle body cleaner and lots of brushes. I'm pretty happy with the results. Here are some detailed photos (including the before picture) that might help someone else out in the future. Note, I replaced the screws with bolts but only hand tightened them with a screw driver (nut driver for future removal). I had to cut a slot with a dremel to get one of the screws out (and most of the others did not come out easy). Before Parts Detail After I spent some time prepping the head for installation tonight. I have the new header/exhaust on-hand along with new studs and bolts.

My FJ707T injectors have arrived. Photos attached. FWIW, I thought I had read that the Standard T series injectors were chinese made but the box states that they are made in the USA. We'll see how they perform. I am encouraged that a USA made item like this is so price competetive (~$26). I was also happy that these injectors came with the seals and clamp. Not sure if that is standard practice or not. Its going to be a couple of weeks before I am ready to fire up this Z.

I am in the process of rebuilding the EFI on a 1976 280Z. I have a set of the the FJ707T injectors on order from 123Autoparts.com ($164.45 with shipping). I am putting something back together that I have never driven before (care needed a little work when I got it a few weeks ago) so I will not have anything to compare it to. Its probably going to be at least a couple of weeks before I get this all together (other stuff to do besides EFI) but I'll let you know how it goes when its done.

My apologies if this is a duplicate, the system seems to have just swallowed my carefully crafted posting (telling me I wasn't logged in). Here goes again. I just bought a 1976 280Z as a project car. The body is in good shape but its been partially dismantled. The previous owner took it apart to move some performance parts to his new Z. So it came with the EFI intake/throttle off the car (along with a bag of misc stuff). Exhaust is missing (I have MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, and MSA premium exhause on order from the Z store). Bumpers are off. Interior taken apart. Drum brakes need work (in-progress - Front disks/calipers look great though). Previous owner upgraded distributor to ZX/electronic, replaced fusible links with fuse block, new dash cap/carpet. My first goal is to get it put back together and running to see what I have. Since the EFI intake/throttle is off the car I decided to replace the injectors (on order) and clamps (one side of the fuel rail had standard hose clamps rather than EFI clamps - looks like one of the injectors was replaced a while back). I have mostly stripped the manifold and would like to give it a good cleaning (along with the throttle which I have removed). What is the best way to clean them inside and out? Carb cleaner and elbow grease? Have it dipped? Something else? Putting it all back together will be an adventure. The previous owner did mark the wiring harness (I will clean all the contacts with deoxit) and I found the Datsun EFI Theory/Troubleshooting book on-line - I think most of my questions will be answered there. I will replace all of the vac hoses and any water/fuel host that doesn't look new (some look newly replaced). I have a new throttle gasket on hand. I will get all new injector hold-down bolts (not screws!) and tighten them appropriately when I reassemble. Any other suggestions while EFI intake is off the car? What would you do? Thanks, Dan PS, Here it is: