youztheclue

@Yarb I used the recommended Bosch Red coil 1.8ohm 0221119031

This should the stock configuration with a little more timing up top.

I played with the timing more today it smoothes out more on this tune. It does seem to be 2 degree retard in reality so I'm going to check tdc mark for the 4 time. And re zero the dizzy. Example: set steady 10 degrees read 8 steady 14 read 12 with the gun

Madkaw I did add the extra 10 degrees but the kpa is the same as the chart. So your saying I should do more like 8-4-0 not 0-4-8

Thanks Zed here is a updated timing chart.

I have a 123 distributor with a Bluetooth app I can set any timing I want. engine specs: l26 N42 head new stock bearing and rings. Schneider stage 3 460 lift 280 dur. timed 5 degrees adv to spec dual weber 32/36 dgv, I have a jet kit but need to get my o2 sensor working pacesetter headers 2.5in exhaust really good ignition components kameari twin idlers and adjustable cam gear 3 core rad with dual 12 in fans for cooling. heat shielding everywhere. a video of it running

distributor has done its job, and my z is alive again!!! I am so happy. Yes I know it could have been done cheaper, maybe an extra feature or two, but the install took 30 mins and I was the cleanest I've ever been when working on my car. Granted its recently cleaned and rebuilt. The distributor came with a black cap which I really wanted for oe type look. The tune isn't good, the carbs aren't set and I'm just happy the thing runs.

Woooo!!!! what the h happened? did it back fire so hard it blow your engine?

Thank you guys for the resources. I knew about the gm hei and actually bought one, but decided to return it. I will defiantly keep that trick in my sleeve to pull out in the future if needed.

The first paragraph will be a little bit of back story. I rebuilt my 260z mechanically this past 2-3 years, paycheck to paycheck, learning from my first project car. I have tried to do a sensible OEM+ type modifications. Last year I drove it 100 miles burned 2.5 qts of oil and decided to rebuild the engine. Fast forward i have redone the engine bay wiring harness while the engine was out. RELOCATED the ignition coil to the other side of the engine bay. i drove the car 50 miles after the rebuild then lifted it back on jack stands to do the suspension bushings and shocks. I also did a bit of wiring upgrades and buttoning up parts in various places. I have a no spark issue. I with the help of others close by have determined my problem to be a distributor problem. I took apart the dang thing and it looks like maybe a wire disordered or maybe even 2 had and these are needle thin wires inside a 280zx non turbo distributor with a black box on the side taking over the roll a points system would do, ECM, electronic control module. i bought a junkyard one that looked nicer than the others but had a non OEM ecm. this part did not solve my problem and test faulty by my method of use a digital multimeter. the 123 Distributor is slightly more expensive and a replacement I could find in descent quality. it will be interesting to see what results I get from this distributor. pic is the dizzy from the car originally, has reman marked on it, also its of 80s tech in a 74 car. the tiny wires I tried to solder them but just didn't work out for me.

I have decided to install a 123 on my 260z this thread has contributed to my decision, as I am highly curious of an upgrade potential: and adding complexity to the car doesn't deter me. My 280zx non-t dizzy upgrade was installed by PO many yrs ago with a reman unit, has failed. I would like to tune my engine with the app, and see the results. I will update when I can.

I already have the engine back down to the block in 21/2 hrs. its really easy after doing it the first time.

The bolt was snapped already and is the old bolt. I have a fresh one ready to replace it. I milled the head and all that. I just took everything apart. It could be the front cover gasket leaking? I'm not sure, the thing is it my first time with z's and having a project car like this.

I rolled the dice and I lost the bet:(

Okay sorry I need to clear the info up. 3 years ago bought 260z and spent 2 and half year in the garage fixing/correcting/maintenance of the car on a shoe string budget. I had a cruise for STL Z club it made the cruise 100 miles 2 qts oil used. this is a stark contrast to the ~40 miles its driven since I've owned it. Parked in garage and pulled everything off the block. Everything is back together after a couple months, with one thing i know for sure is bad. butttttttttt is it what is causing my oil/coolant mixing? Here's a little picture story, my z is in the back of the group photo the last day it drove.

I rebuilt the head on my 260z. I drove it 100 miles and burned 2 qts of oil. I parked it and started tearing everything apart. I found a snapped head stud in the middle of the block. I couldn't get the bolt out at all so with 13 others how bad can it be?https://youtu.be/Ib9RJ3x2_Rs Please whatever help you can give is tremendous because I don't want to redo what I just did and then also take the engine out and the pistons, rods, and bottom out to give the block to a machine shop. There is 1-2qt from the top of the coolant leaking into the oil only. Not the combustion chamber because the exhaust is fine.

I just put my engine back together and started the engine up. Also all the electrical components are working. So now that I know everything I have is working good I will start updating this with all the notes that I have. Also I will do the same on GitHub.

The mostly OEM harness and the added on wires from: horn, HIDs, LEDs, dual electric fans.

Update on the wiring. I have the whole front engine bay harness unwrapped. It's undone all the way to the firewall. I'm going to remove and add a couple wires, shorten some, replace others. A nice rewrap and the electrical will be good while I create the really nice loom on the bench.

im striping my engine bay now and also trying to learn GitHub which is no easy task. tomorrow i will be stripping back the wiring loom to get and accurate readings.

I just bit the bullet and took the head off the block gonna do a whole top end service and see if that fixes it.

the loose spark plug male tip was on cylinder 6 and 4 i believe and i had a intake vacuum hose open to the rear then to the gas tank filler neck loosely. here are my engine bay pics. the video has the on off i was talking about and also the tire skip from the welded diff.In the first pic you can see the evap charcoal canister that i deleted and add the red caps. Also you can see the second pic the cylinder 6 exhaust doesn't have a bolt, because it was snapped inside the head. it has exhaust sealer goo on it as well as using that to seal the firewall. a VID_20190322_142254Trim.mp4

Sure um I'm going to look into doing that. I've visited GitHub once or twice but never really used it. i linked the git hub after the intro. https://github.com/youztheclue/S30-Spec.git

So I put my car on jack stands and put it in gear. First, second fine. Then third started clunk and fourth made me scared. Crawling under the car it's definitely shaking and clunking in the transmission case:( I add the last .4qt from the flush I did and it quited down and actually lasted 100 miles in one day. It helped a lot but seems it could be the transmission messing with the engine and driving feel. I definitely need someone that's driven old Z around to actually nail this down.

No AFR sensor unfortunately. I'm gonna be buttoning it up today and drive it around again to see if I can pin it down.