Jonu

Well i can't edit my post, but what i was trying to say is that for the MSD ignition to work properly I would need a tach signal booster and also getting a second block to have that built up and keep the original engine in stock factory specs. I also made a build thread where I'm going to keep the progress on my build posted, then just use this thread for my "stupid" questions (I quote stupid cause i would rather ask a "stupid" question than not ask and end up doing harm to the car or myself). Anyways the build thread is here (i think it is in the right area): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?45907-My-Z-build&p=396449#post396449

Should also add all the questions i've had can be found here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?45881-Have-a-few-questions-about-my-240

Going to use this as my build/resto thread. I just picked the car up last Thursday and am looking forward to working on it. It's a '73 Blue 240Z that is all original as far as I can tell so far. It isn't running yet, though I hope to be able to turn it over by the end of the week. I doubt I'll have it ready to run for another few weeks but I'm working on it. Right now, I'm following the steps in the "Waking the sleeping beast?" thread to hopefully get it to turn over with no further damage (if there is any). I pulled the plugs tonight and put some ATF in the cylinders. I did notice that the spark plugs are extremely fouled and are a very dark slightly shiny black. I'm thinking it is a combination of running a little rich and some oil leaking past the valves. I plan on trying to see if it turns over by hand Wednesday evening. Tomorrow, I plan on pulling the carbs out so i can get them cleaned up and ready for operation. I also noticed that there are two different types of plugs on the car. They are all NGK plugs, but plugs 1,2,5, and 6 needed a 13/16 size socket while plugs 3 and 4 needed a slightly smaller 5/8" socket. I'll get pictures of them tomorrow when I pull them off again, but I think they maybe two different heat ranges. Either way I think it was a bit rich and possibly burning a little oil.

When I talked to MSD they mentioned that if I used their ignition system I would need to get a each signal booster. I have also talked to Rebello racing about getting my engine rebuilt, but now I need to call again because i'm thinking of buying a bare L28 block attaching the extra head, intake, and carbs to have that built up instead of theoriginengine. I'll have to look into the Mallory ignition system. please bear with me on the typos, my phone makes this hard to edit.

to conver to the Mallory unit I need the following, is this everything?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4763901/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-700/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29351/ Then couple that with an MSD ignition.

Oh, and getting the stupid tabs that the broken window louvre used out of the window seal is a major PITA, I tried before I went shooting to get them out and then again once i got back and only managed to remove one of the four tabs. I'll be trying again tomorrow after work. I also plan on starting the steps from the "Wakening the sleeping beast" thread so i might be able to get it started by the end of this week. I'm going to make a check list of things to do so I don't miss anything. Last thing I want to do is screw up the engine cause of a stupid oversight.

Pictures as promised, I'll try to get some better ones during the day tomorrow, I didn't get home from shooting until it was dark. I have planned on using some mechanical gauges. One of the things i did plan on using modern tech for is the ignition system. I've talked with MSD and think I have a setup figured out, but I'm wondering is there a way to convert to a modern distributor and get rid of the points or is it reliable enough when properly cared for? Are you saying that either way I go I'll have to mess with the shock towers? If so, I'll just go ahead with the coilovers. I figured staying with springs and struts would prevent me from having to modify that. And some pics from the other day sitting next to my 370:

Found a little project for today. I knew there was a rear window louvre in the back of the car. and the one that was installed was in fairly poor shape. So I pull out the box in the car and it was a brand new interpart louvre with everything still in the original packaging. The box looks old as dirt and is about to fall apart so i figured I'll get the new piece installed. I'll take some crappy before and after pics with my phone.

Thanks for all the info. I've read through that Waking the sleeping beast and figure I'll start with those tips on Monday. My main goal is to get it restored to something similar to what a race prepped 240Z would have been like back in the 70's, So basically, my plan is to have it be a period correct race car (minus the modern safety equipment). I'm hoping to get an extra block that I can then get built up as an aggressive street/mild track engine. I would leave the original engine stock and just keep it in good running shape. While that's being done I just want to go through the car and take care of the little bits of rust it has and make sure the suspension is as good as possible. My plan is to use struts and springs since I don't want to cut up the shock towers for coilovers. As far as my planned changes goes it looks something like this: 1. Get the car running 2. Find a spare block (I don't want to screw up the original) for the fun engine. I've actually already located both an L24 and L28 block, I just need to figure out when and how to get it since my other car is a 370Z. 3. swap in a 4 speed manual 4. Struts and springs 5. New emblems to replace the missing or broken ones 6. Fresh paint, I want to keep the original factory blue paint. There's obviously other things I want to do, but it falls under the normal wear and tear replacement items. And for the other things you mentioned Carl, I have access to a fully equipped garage with lifts, air tools, torque wrenches, sand blasting cabinet (not very big though), etc. As for the time period, I would like to get it running asap; I'm not in a huge rush to get everything done and plan on taking my time doing this. Maybe a couple years would be a good estimate. I'll try to get some detailed pics up later today. I was taking pictures yesterday and left my camera at my friend's house when i showed him the pics. Finally this is what I do know about the car. The owner I bought the car from owned the car (well the title was in his name) since 1985. I'm not sure where it was before that but I know that for the time he owned it; it was located in El Paso Texas. The last time it was run was in 2007 when it got an inspection sticker. He only put 4 miles on the car after recieving the inspection. According to his friend who was selling it for him, the car hasn't really moved much in the last ten years. So going off the information I got, I assume that it was running before it started sitting and if the mileage on the odometer is actually correct, this car might only have 50k miles on it (which I find hard to believe); I'm thinking I might do a title search once I get my title in the mail and see what turns up. The only spot that has rusted through is the cowling, which i have found a replacement for, the rest appears to be surface rust. I looked under the car, in the wheel wells, under the footwell carpeting and didn't see any rust in those areas, which makes me think the car has been out here in the SW the whole time. I was told that the previous owner liked to keep it parked under a tree and that when his friend was asked to sell it there was a lot of crud on the cowling and hood. I'll be sure to get some pics up later today.

First of all, I finally got a 240Z a couple days agao and am pretty excited to get started on it. It currently doesn't run, so that is first on my list of priorities. It hasn't been driven in years (last inspection sticker/plate was in '07) and so I'm not to interested in trying to go out and turn it over just yet. What I'm considering doing is buying the Fel-Pro gasket kit from summit racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-FS21157PT/Application/?prefilter=1 so i can replace all the gaskets and seals. I also got a bunch of spare parts to go with it and one of the items is an E88 head from a 260Z. I was wanting to practice setting the valve clearances on this head but can't figure out how to turn the cam w/o it being attached to anything. I'm also looking for opinions on what else I should do before attempting to start the engine, this is how my list stands at the moment (it was running before the guy quit driving it): 1. Replace all gaskets and seals 2. Pull apart carbs, clean and reassemble 3. Clean up the Dizzy and verify that it is in spec 4. Drain fuel from lines and tank 5. Verify that the valve train is in spec 6. Fab up new fuel lines? I assume i should do this since the lines in there are probably closing in on 40 years of service 7. Drain and replace all fluids Anything I missed from that list? I'm thinking of buying a second bare block and sending it out to get rebuilt along with the spare head, intake, and carbs that I have. Then get the original block rebuilt to stock specs since it is the original block.

This should be my final pre purchase question. I'm still trying to find the answer over in the electronics section but what style distributor do I need to get rid of the points style distributor?

How hard is it to swap in a manual on one that comes with an auto?

Is there a guide somewhere around here that gives you tips on what to look for when looking at these cars? I know the obvious things, but what about specifics to the 240?

I found the FSM for the car and have been looking through the engine tune up section. Looks like quite a bit, but none of it appears to be anything difficult. The most difficult part for me will be the carb, the only experience i have with them is from my little nitro powered r/c cars. If I go through with this, I'll probably have a friend trailer it for me and just work my way through the engine tune up steps before trying to start it. I also was taking a look at your site Bruce, If i buy this i might just have to send you the carb/intake

I'll start off by letting you guys know that I'm new to the forum. I currently have a 2011 370Z and I am currently looking for a 240Z. I've been looking around and have found one locally that doesn't run, but the owner claims it ran when it was parked years ago (one picture shows an inspection sticker from 2002). I have yet to take a look at the car but was wondering what would typically cause this. My ideas are bad gas (assuming it hasn't been started during that time), dead battery, gummed up carbs, or bad contacts on the pickups for the distributor. Anyone else have any suggestions on what to look for if/when I go take a look at this car?