ecp48

These are well made rails and fit over the existing rustouts. Just Por-15 the old part and weld on the new. Heavier gauge metal as well. 2 on my 78 Z. I also plan to order two more for my hybrid, simply to hide the dings in the existing ones and to add a little strength. Great guy to deal with! ED

Will, The period correct dealer installed side molding 1/2" wide and the pin striping above it, accenting the fender and body lines front to rear. For a modified car, the dual racing stripes are super, about 8' wide, front to rear. Ed

That is funny. I had V-8 60s as well, but they were in a 1959 Anglia. Big step up from the 35 hp flathead four. Gave them to a friend who collected midget race cars in Miami 30 years ago.

Looks like a Kurtis Midget. Saw one in the North Ga. Mountains near Blairsville 10 Years ago setting by the side of the road.

The ones I've used in the past had a wooden block glued in on both sides, in the hollow. they line up with the rubber plugs on the inside of the hatch. Remove the plugs and drill through the hatch from the inside and insert the screw into the wood block. It would work for you as well. Just carve a couple of pine blocks and epoxy glue them to the inside of the spoiler.

Will, My red Z would love another bay in the garage where it could share time with the silver Z being converted to v-8 and my semi-retired Formula V (plus cartons and cartons of parts and tools). Let alone the black ZX which huddles under its cover while I work on its cancer (metallic sort).

The only viable option, that I am aware of is the John's Cars. JTR has been hesitating on the LS1 for more than two years. The motor mounts are significantly different from the LT1 and previous Chevy Small Blocks. Only caveat, I stopped paying attention to LS1 about a year ago when my suppliers (friends in the business) could get me the engine, but not the six speed for a reasonable price (free). Most of the camaro's came with automaticf, so that's what is generally available. T56 runs the price up drastically from my stand point. I am building a 5.0/T-5 installation in my 76 280, should be 300 - 325 RWHP. By all means, check the Hybrid Z site, you will find everything you need on the LS1 swap.

I haven't tried it, but I have seen the rubber pieces repaired at the bellows with fiberglass cloth and resin. A little "liquid rubber" was used to mask the joint. What you will be doing will put more stress on the front of the car in a light accident. I had the 240 bumpers on my original Z, a 75 280. They would bend in a light hit rather than transferring the hit into the front frame members. The original 280 mounts take the hit in the gas filled struts (light bumps). Good luck. My 78 presently has the MSA front spoiler with molded in bumper. I have the rear piece sectioned to remove the rear valance and moved closer to the body by one inch. Just for looks, but I am taking them off and using them on a 76 280 in which, I am installing a 5.0 Ford engine and T-5. the 78 will get its old bumpers back because I intend to use it for commuting to Atlanta and want the protection.

Clean, workable and as detailed (colors, hoses, etc.) as fits the way the car was finished, i.e.: stock restored clean with original finish; modified: clean painted and detailed with aeroquip, and other touches. In essence, whatever turns you on. My '78 280 is basically clean & stock. The exterior will be as well with the addition of an air dam. My 76 which is bing converted to 5.0 Ford power & T-5, will have aeroquip hoses, block painted in Ford Blue, etc. 81 ZX will be a mixture but clean (street daily driver). Unfortunately Will, none of the choices fit this.

I used it to seal a fist size hole in the side of an 84 Volvo 240T Block. Lasted for over four years. Great stuff. Incidentally, I was introduced to it by a Marine Machinist, who used it for fixing key ways on heavy diesel crankshafts. His comment was that it was tough enough to machine.

If you are truly concerned with the appearance. Check out Bad Dog Parts. They make frame rails. The 280 Rails will fit over the existing 280 Rails and are heavier steel. Check and see if the 240 Rails are the same. If so, just place over the existing dented rails and mig weld into place. From the tone of your heading I was expecting that you found a big rust problem, not a few dings.

Most machine shops have access to the shims. (.015 thick) Remember, for a decent increase in compression, you need the flat top pistons. Otherwise, it is not any different from using an N42 head.

Most people who install the P90 Head on a early 280 are looking to go Turbo, due to the low Compression Ratio of appx 7.38:1. When installing the P90 head on a F54 Block or N47 block with flat-top pistons, the usual move is to cut the head .080 and use the N42 or N47 head valves, which are .080 longer, while shimming the cam towers the same .080 to achieve appx. a compression ratio of 9.8 - 10.5:1. Hope this is what you were looking for in the way of information.

Taking the heat shields out leaves a big, irregular opening, worse flow. If you check the many threads on this topic, here and at Hybrid Z, you will note that the N47 flows very well in stock form. Just clean up the valve bowls or pockets.

The only exception to the "easy bolt on horsepower" is the late 280Z. The 78 has a very restricted two into one pipe. They are so short and tight, the tubing is rectangular. Replacement with a header will free up the bottle neck. Pace Setter or MSA will work. MSA had the thicker flange (better mount), the last time I checked. The 78 280 should have the N47 round port head. I say should, because my 78 had a rebuilt Lazorlite installed with the N42 head and I have additional restriction with a round port manifold on the square port head. Look at the side of the head for the N47 marking. If so, then you need the later round port header. You might want to check ebay.