ecp48

These are well made rails and fit over the existing rustouts. Just Por-15 the old part and weld on the new. Heavier gauge metal as well. 2 on my 78 Z. I also plan to order two more for my hybrid, simply to hide the dings in the existing ones and to add a little strength. Great guy to deal with! ED

Will, The period correct dealer installed side molding 1/2" wide and the pin striping above it, accenting the fender and body lines front to rear. For a modified car, the dual racing stripes are super, about 8' wide, front to rear. Ed

That is funny. I had V-8 60s as well, but they were in a 1959 Anglia. Big step up from the 35 hp flathead four. Gave them to a friend who collected midget race cars in Miami 30 years ago.

Looks like a Kurtis Midget. Saw one in the North Ga. Mountains near Blairsville 10 Years ago setting by the side of the road.

The ones I've used in the past had a wooden block glued in on both sides, in the hollow. they line up with the rubber plugs on the inside of the hatch. Remove the plugs and drill through the hatch from the inside and insert the screw into the wood block. It would work for you as well. Just carve a couple of pine blocks and epoxy glue them to the inside of the spoiler.

Will, My red Z would love another bay in the garage where it could share time with the silver Z being converted to v-8 and my semi-retired Formula V (plus cartons and cartons of parts and tools). Let alone the black ZX which huddles under its cover while I work on its cancer (metallic sort).

The only viable option, that I am aware of is the John's Cars. JTR has been hesitating on the LS1 for more than two years. The motor mounts are significantly different from the LT1 and previous Chevy Small Blocks. Only caveat, I stopped paying attention to LS1 about a year ago when my suppliers (friends in the business) could get me the engine, but not the six speed for a reasonable price (free). Most of the camaro's came with automaticf, so that's what is generally available. T56 runs the price up drastically from my stand point. I am building a 5.0/T-5 installation in my 76 280, should be 300 - 325 RWHP. By all means, check the Hybrid Z site, you will find everything you need on the LS1 swap.

I haven't tried it, but I have seen the rubber pieces repaired at the bellows with fiberglass cloth and resin. A little "liquid rubber" was used to mask the joint. What you will be doing will put more stress on the front of the car in a light accident. I had the 240 bumpers on my original Z, a 75 280. They would bend in a light hit rather than transferring the hit into the front frame members. The original 280 mounts take the hit in the gas filled struts (light bumps). Good luck. My 78 presently has the MSA front spoiler with molded in bumper. I have the rear piece sectioned to remove the rear valance and moved closer to the body by one inch. Just for looks, but I am taking them off and using them on a 76 280 in which, I am installing a 5.0 Ford engine and T-5. the 78 will get its old bumpers back because I intend to use it for commuting to Atlanta and want the protection.

Clean, workable and as detailed (colors, hoses, etc.) as fits the way the car was finished, i.e.: stock restored clean with original finish; modified: clean painted and detailed with aeroquip, and other touches. In essence, whatever turns you on. My '78 280 is basically clean & stock. The exterior will be as well with the addition of an air dam. My 76 which is bing converted to 5.0 Ford power & T-5, will have aeroquip hoses, block painted in Ford Blue, etc. 81 ZX will be a mixture but clean (street daily driver). Unfortunately Will, none of the choices fit this.

I used it to seal a fist size hole in the side of an 84 Volvo 240T Block. Lasted for over four years. Great stuff. Incidentally, I was introduced to it by a Marine Machinist, who used it for fixing key ways on heavy diesel crankshafts. His comment was that it was tough enough to machine.

If you are truly concerned with the appearance. Check out Bad Dog Parts. They make frame rails. The 280 Rails will fit over the existing 280 Rails and are heavier steel. Check and see if the 240 Rails are the same. If so, just place over the existing dented rails and mig weld into place. From the tone of your heading I was expecting that you found a big rust problem, not a few dings.

Most machine shops have access to the shims. (.015 thick) Remember, for a decent increase in compression, you need the flat top pistons. Otherwise, it is not any different from using an N42 head.

Most people who install the P90 Head on a early 280 are looking to go Turbo, due to the low Compression Ratio of appx 7.38:1. When installing the P90 head on a F54 Block or N47 block with flat-top pistons, the usual move is to cut the head .080 and use the N42 or N47 head valves, which are .080 longer, while shimming the cam towers the same .080 to achieve appx. a compression ratio of 9.8 - 10.5:1. Hope this is what you were looking for in the way of information.

Taking the heat shields out leaves a big, irregular opening, worse flow. If you check the many threads on this topic, here and at Hybrid Z, you will note that the N47 flows very well in stock form. Just clean up the valve bowls or pockets.

The only exception to the "easy bolt on horsepower" is the late 280Z. The 78 has a very restricted two into one pipe. They are so short and tight, the tubing is rectangular. Replacement with a header will free up the bottle neck. Pace Setter or MSA will work. MSA had the thicker flange (better mount), the last time I checked. The 78 280 should have the N47 round port head. I say should, because my 78 had a rebuilt Lazorlite installed with the N42 head and I have additional restriction with a round port manifold on the square port head. Look at the side of the head for the N47 marking. If so, then you need the later round port header. You might want to check ebay.

I had one on my 75 280. I took out the bumper shocks and inserted the 240 bracket into the frame. The 78 280 has bolt on bumper shocks thus not the same receptacle for the bracket. You will have to fabricate the mounts. The small bolt at the bumper ends will go into the same hole on the fender. Good Luck.

Will, Whatever I can make work, buy cheap and improve the performance, while outwardly looking near stock. I chose Duct Tape.

I've got the Bad Dog rails for the 28o and they are outstanding. Well made, heavier gauge Steel and slip right over the old 280 Rails. The best part is that they extend all the way to the Thrust Rod location. Also, I should mention they are knowledgeable and cooperative to deal with.

Will, Congratulations, how is the wife? Tried to catch you before New Years but it was crazy. Everything here is going great. Now are you going to need another car for Tristan, or does she get the Ferrari clone?

Nothing wrong with doing both. Intolerance on either side is self defeating, as there is considerable overlap. Dropping the eight in a pristeen 240 would bother me, but utilizing a basically rough, but rust free 76 280Z to house a 5.0 Ford interests me. In fact the move is in the planning and preparation stage. I still have a relatively lively 78 280 with a modified six and an 81 280ZX. The folks that are religious must be Datsun fans have a point with real collectibles, but the others are only toys, whether modified Datsun six or the eight. In my case I will get as much pleasure out of engineering the installation and raising the pucker factor on track days, as anything else. It also will cost much less than a vette or other equivalent performance toy.

Too bad you limited it to the 240Z.

Fun_in_my_z I have an unbuilt Monogram 280Z. It is a slammer, i.e.: no engine detail and the hood is molded closed. I think it is the same as the ones Gregg posted, only no rally lights, etc. I was going to build it using a Revel 240 kit as a donor for the drivetrain. Never got around to it. Very simple, early kit. Now I'm too busy with my running 78 280 and project 75 (5.0 & T-5 installation)

The other method is to obtain the KD Spark Plug hole adapter. Threaded fitting which screws into the spark plug hole and accepts a threaded adapter for an air hose. Simply put the cylinder at top dead center, fire up the air compressor and use the 100+ pounds of air pressure to hold the valves up, while changing the springs.

A Ford 5.0 V-8 with, GT-40P heads, Cobra Intake, etc. and a T-5 Tranny. (For the 76 280) Now all I need is the time to insert it and a buyer for a rebuilt L-2.8 with appx 60,000 miles.

Light weight, under 3,000 lbs, 2,500 would be better. Front mid-engine. Easy to work on with large hands (No requirement for disassembly of the top of the engine to change an AC compressor, ala the 300Z TT. No plastic covers over the engine bay. Decent power to weight ratio. Long nose and hatchback. No McPherson struts, upper and lower A Arms. Simple interior, without all of the computer driven bells and whistles, such as I-Drive on BMWs. A "Drivers" car!