ecp48

Without a doubt the worst overall problem is the lack of care in design/assembly with regard to rust/prevention. This is true all the way from 1970 to 1983. There is no difference. The bottom of the fenders attract rust. The cowl area in the ZX (not openly accessible like in the Z), front fender attachment points and the spare tire well. It is totally about rust. Think about it, what is the first thing we suggest on the forum to anyone looking at one of these cars, without a doubt it's rust! The infamous spindle pins are a product of long term use without anti sieze on installation. I popped my original 75 Z's spindle pins in the driveway in 1980, no problem with a brass drift and 2 lb. sledge. Yet the same car on purchase in 79 already had through holes in the rear fender corners around the hatch, the latch area above the lights, the bottom seam of the body inside the gas cap door and at the sideview mirrors on both doors (West Palm Beach Car). My first sheet metal welding experience was fixing the holes with one of those oxy-tablet/propane welders.

I'm with Jon, Improving the suspension, handling and power of the car, while not destroying the look is the way to go.

Gavin, You have the right idea. a Zerc is a grease nipple. As long as you keep the early one lubed, it seem to continue to last. The later 260/280 can goi in as little as 3-4 years.

Driveinmenuts, If you are saying you push the flap valve open to make the engine run/accelerate, then you have a massive vacuum leak between the AFM and the Throttle plate. I had it happen one time after jacking that side of the motor to replace a motor mount. It pulled the rubber bellows off the intake side of the AFM, looked fine from above, but the bottom of the hose was way off the connector.

Rack bushings are different due to the rack, not the crossmember. To my knowledge, and I've swapped a few of them, there is no difference. I've always tried to use the early rack in the 280s, due to the grease fittings on the side opposite the pinion, the bushings don't wear as fast. All I ever had to do was change the bushings to those appropriate to the rack.

I bought a set on ZCar.com back in the Summer (year ago) with 240SX calipers for 100.00 shipped. I just found a set a few months ago attached to the Maxima I was pulling an LD280 crank out of. It is just a matter of luck when looking, but check every Maxima 81-84. Look for the large head bolts on the ends of the axle tube (4) behind the rotors. If Phillips head screws (holding the backing plate), then a welded unit. By the way, save the bolts, otherwise you will have to scrounge the appropriate fasteners (a slightly different length, than commonly available at Ace or Lowes). Good Luck!

Joseph, You hit it with that picture. The Zerk fitting on the pinion, was not familiar, but the one on the other end, was just what I remember. I've been meaning to find an early rack to install in my current 280Z (78), but just haven't had time.

Joseph, It would be apparent if you had the zerk fitting. It is not under the boot. Normally is on top side of the rack, with an angle fitting for access. I don't know if the fitting was on from the factory, but it was always easily visible. Hope this helps.

Joseph, I was speaking of the US import variety, which has the pinion on the Left or Driver's side (for the states). On our 240 racks, the passenger side has the zerk fitting, meaning the non-rack side bushing could be lubricated. It has been my experience that the later, non zerk fitted units show extreme wear on the rack where it transverses the non pinion side bushing. In Fact, the Downing article on rebuilding these later racks (IZCC site), talks about honing out the new bushing, but not more than an interference fit at the end, as the inner part of the rack will be worn smaller. On my first 280 (75 280Z with 97,000 miles), I replaced the original rack with a 240 rack (72 240 with appx 137,000 miles) and it worked until the car was totalled (additional 50,000 miles). Just put a shot of grease in, whenever I changed the oil.

The 240Z rack has a Zerk fitting on the non-pinion end (passenger side). It also takes a different bushing. Lastly and most important, they are freely rebuildable, while the 260/280 need a lot of cut and fit on the rack bushings (must be honed to fit). The Zerk fitting is the key to identification and to longevity of use.

You might also look at Rust Zone. Seems to work the same as POR15, although their site implies that it has more resistance to UV, but it comes in SPRAY CANS!! There are a lot of times the brush on is not what I need in an area I will be putting a finish coat on, but the rust zone covers much smoother due to the spray. Not to mention ease/speed of application. I use both all the time based on where it will be applied. I've used Enrique's blow gun application of POR15 inside rockers, frame rails and the heater inlet box on my ZX. The Rust Zone spray was applied to the open (rusted the bottom away) frame rails on my 280Z before installing the new Bad Dog Frame Rails over them. Used PickleX on the raw metal of the new rails and the weld surface on the old rails. You can weld right through it, per the manufacturer. Looked good when finished.

The Color schematic cited above by 280~Master is great, however it is inapplicable to the later 1978 280Z, which has 3 fuel injection related relays like a zx. One on the following noted schematic is the fuel injection relay (top center). Two are located bottom center and operrate the pump, same as a 79 ZX. In fact the 79 ZX schematic is closer (other than location of items) than the 77 280Z. Go to the following URL (autozone) and click on Fig. 20: Engine control schematic-1978 280 Z http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/1d/80/0900823d801d1d80.jsp

Motor Sports Auto has LSD for this unit. http://www.motorsportauto.com/ MSA Limited Slip Kit, 77-85 Z/ZX Non Turbo With R-200 (10mm) Differential Code: 22-4002 Price: $1,399.95 Quaife ATB Limited Slip Assembly, R-200 Differential Code: 22-4007 Price: $1,999.95

Thanks guys, I just saw it posted and had never seen it before. I use a P90 head anyway.

Anyone ever heard of a Y70 head for an L6 Datsun? Looking at the picture it is a round port, similar to a p79. I am just curious, hadn't seen one before. It is posted on ebay, item # 8035180569.

Clean the wire connections to the Thermotime Switch. Located on the thermostat housing. The wire connections are a slip fit on the manifold and sometimes corrode leaving a bad connection or the swtich may be defective. This switch tells the computer that the engine has warmed up and it can cut back the fuel enrichment after start up.

More than likely it has bad synchros and possibly worn gears. Only easy if you know tranny repairs.

Jackhammer, Old Boy, you need to get a life! Your sign on says it all. Ed Palmer/ecp48

Anumber of people on Hybrid Z have used them because they provide additional clearance, when used with a high lift cam. I have a set going to the machine shop next week for use on a p-90 head with one of Mitch's regrinds.

Another thing for you to check. Do all of the spark plugs look the same or are 1 & 2 cleaner than the others. If a spark plug is not firing, it will be coated, due to the fuel injected into the cylinder without spark. If the 1 & 2 plugs look particularly clean, possibly those injectors are clogged.

For what it's worth... My normal method of "Z Acquisition" is flat towing with a tow bar, even though I have a tow dolly. The tow bar and brackets slide into my pickup, while on work trips very effectively. While the dolly is a little much to haul around on speculative ventures. Having said that, My 78 five speed was towed from Fairfax, VA. It was non-running with approximately 130,000 miles on the clock. Hadn't been driven in five years or started in three. I've driven it extensively since then (cleaned the fuel system), but it has a fifth gear whine. I've often wondered if I caused that by the flat tow, due to lack of lubrication to the fifth gear lay shaft. The latest acquisition, an 81 280ZX, I disconnected the drive shaft, which was a major pain, but I did not want to risk the tranny. I've towed at least 7 assorted Zs and ZXs this way, let alone other non-Z acquisitions. The automatics always get the drive shaft pulled. Of the others, the 76 280 four speed showed no wear afterward. it shifted fine, etc. The other 78 280, I haven't taken the time to get running, so I can't tell on that five speed.

The Seller got lucky and as Will said, this is an honest, straight up seller, ebay needs more like him.

rsikes, My original 280Z (1975) developed engine problems after a rebuild, rings wouldn't seal. I was given a 30,000 mile 280ZX engine by some friends in the business. We pulled the old engine and installed the new one in an afternoon. The ZX engine was quicker. As long as you want it for fun transportation, and a toy, the ZX motor won't matter at all. Ed Palmer/ecp48 Athens, GA

Profile and potential for performance. As Jon has posted a number of times, the original Z, whether 240 or 280 doesn't go or handle with a modern car even a sedan, but due to outstanding looks and light weight the potential is there for a lot of fun.

The primary area you will obtain a gain from is "pocket porting", ie: smoothing the "bowl" behind the valve seat. Care must be taken not to screw up the seat. Removing casting flash and ridges in this area is a plus in all cases. If you have access to a burrette or graduated cylinder, matching your combustion chambers will also help, as Jon stated above. The present position I've been reading on the various sites and in the magazine articles is that the port matching has much less impact on the normal street Z or other vehicle. Port polishing on the intake side is also generally considered to be a bad thing, as you reduce turbulence, which allows separation of the fuel from the airstream in the port. Other than the above, I've found it to be a personally rewarding therapy. starting with a 2.0 Ltr. Pinto in Law School. Definite therapy on breaks. Good luck.