Jarvo2

I went with the larger 3/8" size, although I think the SU shaft is a big larger, but I'm sure I can make it fit (possible grind down the throttle arm hole if required). There's also a lightweight on which has less material on it...same site. Enjoy!

I think I found the solution for anchoring to the SU throttle shaft. I'm taking some detailed pictures along the way as well. Aluminum Throttle Linkage Arms - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

I recently put a '77 clutch, plate, and collar on my 240z and experienced the exact same thing It seems like the clutch engages/disengages within the first third of travel from the top. Eventually I'll switch back to an earlier clutch, but for right now this seems to be the way it works.

I'd be concerned about how that electric pump is powered in the engine bay! I agree with Reverend that it is much more efficient as a push (by the tank) rather than a pull (in the engine bay).

Check out ebay if you're looking for an OE one. I think the Eagle Aluminum ones with a lifetime warranty are much better at performing their function. My '72 240z came with a 280zx radiator installed by the previous owner. It sat much lower towards the ground and the outlet was in the incorrect direction. Here's a picture of the aluminum 240z radiator (silver) I purchased compared to the 280zx (black). More pictures of the aluminum radiator install: Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Radiator Upgrade

For those who have converted away from the mechanical linkage over to a throttle cable, I'm curious what anchor point you used on your SU carbs. Specifically did you mount a throttle wheel to the linkage or did you create some other form of connection? I'm just starting to do my homework as I'm not thrilled with the mechanical linkage. Any suggestions/pictures you have would be appreciated. Thanks!

I'm in absolutely no rush (1-2 years out), but if I'm able to procure the correct pieces along the way, I'm always keeping my eyes open. Enjoy your kitchen renovations!

Chuck do you have any sets of panels that are still available for sale? I'm going to be in the market for a driver's & passenger's side rear quarters.

PMG -- Yes, I was at the Promenade last summer with the Windy City Z Club. My car is still a work in progress, right now looking to make it the most reliable driver possible....once its mechanically how I want it, then I'll be moving to the cosmetics.

Welcome! As a fellow Chicagoan (well suburbanite), I've found this site to be very useful! I ended up picking up my '72 240z from a guy down in Texas. I'd suggest you look south or west for the most rust-free vehicle you can find & then still be ready to deal with some form of rust. Feel free to look me up once you move back & you're welcome to come check out my project & talk Datsuns.

How big is the new alternator (amps)? I think for mine I just used a 50 or 60 amp and its been working great.

One of these just popped up on Craigslist... old 240Z Datsun/Nissan Factory Tool Box Looks like a lot more 'tools' than the original with the tool tray.

If it is your radiator & you need an nice OEM replacement, let me know. I have a 3-row copper 280z/x radiator in my attic that the previous owner of my 240z put on (240 vs 280 use different radiators so I replaced it with the proper one on my car). I'm down in Chicago. david_jarvas@yahoo.com

I've had no issues with the el-cheapo fuel pump and its nice & quiet! My only complaint is the mounting bracket.

Here are some pictures for you... Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Electric Fuel Pump Installation

Install an electric fuel pump and cutoff switch that only YOU know where it is! At the end of the day though, if someone wants your car they're going to pull it up onto a flatbed trailer & run off with it.

Where I have paint its dark brown! Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Initial Photo Shoot

I've got the opposite challenge! 1972 240z with a 1977 280z 5speed. I'm using the 280z clutch, pressure plate, collar, and non-adjustable slave. The clutch seems to disengage very quickly (within the first third of pedal travel). Basically I only have to push the clutch pedal down 2 inches and I fully disengage. The clutch doesn't seem like its slipping at all (4th at low speed, throttle floored and now slipping). Any thoughts on this one?

Click here for some pictures of my fuel hose replacement as well as a bunch of great pictures I've found across the web on the subject... Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Smelly Situation

I used DAS and the car arrived on time (TX to IL) for about $700. It was uncovered and I'm sure I was on the bottom with drips from everyone above...but it was a barn find.

I've got a 280z radiator that was mounted in my 240z. The lower hose outlet wasn't right, but was still usable with a flex-hose. I've since upgraded to an aluminum 240z radiator & love it. If anyone is interested in a 3/4 row 280z radiator let me know.

There is a plug in the threaded hole that you can take out & replace with a Zerk fitting for greasing.

Here are some pictures of my WesCo install... Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Seatbelt upgrade

Sounds like valve seals or a burnt valve itself letting fresh air into the combustion chamber through the head. When you pinch the hose you cut off the air source.

Here's my writeup on my '72 Fuel Pump wiring and Alternator upgrade. I wired in the oil pressure switch and its worked great (just need to make sure that you have a 2phase on that allows the pump to activate when the starter is being activated). Please note that the OEM '73 fuel pump wiring will not work with the approach I took for my Alternator upgrade. You may want to reach out to Dave Irwin (famous for his headlight harnesses) to discuss the approach for the '73 fuel pump if you don't fully rewire it with the oil pressure switch. Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Alternator Upgrade Dave's 1972 Datsun 240z: Electric Fuel Pump Installation