Jarvo2

I did power up this pump and its working as designed. Based on the low pressure its outputting, it must be for a carb'd engine. I've also done some more research and this appears to be the electric pump that dealers installed on '73 240z's with vapor lock conditions as well as some 260's. I'm looking to get $150 OBO for the pump. Please PM me if you're interested.

Mind if I ask what you paid for your Parcel bar? I have an AMCO NOS parcel bar that came with my car (never installed) and I don't see myself ever using it and thinking about listing it.

Ok, so I just found this on eBay.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Pickup-Z24-Electric-Fuel-Pump-Made-in-Japan-Ships-Fast-/150968637486?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23266e982e&vxp=mtr

When I purchased my '72 240z, the previous owner included a NOS Jidosha Kiki fuel pump which wasn't hooked up. It looks brand new and I'm thinking of swapping over from mechanical to an electric fuel pump. Is it worth me hooking this thing up or should I just but a new universal pump? It says unit number 379-00160, Transistor Fuel Pump on the label. I'm curious if anyone has information on this pump, suchas whats it from, how many PSI will it deliver, etc. If a newer electronic pump will be more reliable, I may have to put this one up on the classifieds. Any idea what these things go for? Thanks!

I've been seeing the re-manufactured ones pop up on eBay as well. Very reasonable price, just need to keep an eye out for them.

Sorry, this is the file I meant to upload earlier...shows how to simply hook up the Pertronix and have the stock 240z tach work. I followed this approach & haven't had any issues. Please note that you'll want to ensure the rest of the distributor functions as designed without much slop in the shaft.

Pertronix is the easiest! I didn't have any issues.

I've been eyeing this compressor up, but I might just rent a 'nice' one from the auto parts store next time I change my struts & springs http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

Thanks for the great info, just wanted to make sure I wasn't going too crazy with the piston-lift test failing! As for the ZT rebuild kit, it worked perfect, and is very high quality.

Mine had an optional air dam that mounted with the bolt-pattern that you mention for a 240z. Its in pretty rough shape so I pulled it off and its sitting in my attic right now. I believe it was to provide some stability at higher speeds.

I'm hoping Scott or Bruce can chime in (or anyone else that has experience), as I'm having some difficulties fine tuning the SU's on my '72 240z. I've followed the instructions to the letter for installing the ZT-150 tune-up kit. In order to have the piston-lift work as it supposed to (slightly higher idle and then falls back to normal when raised), I've lowered the mixture knobs down 8 full turns. The car drives and performs well, but I'm noticing that it smells very very very rich and the vacuum gauge is steady at ~17. When I lean out the mixture to about 3 full turns down (idle drops and engine almost stalls when raising the piston-lift), the immense smell goes away and my vacuum gauge is steady at ~20 and the car still performs well. Here's what I've checked thus far: Float levels have been confirmed at 23mm, pistons drop equally, choke is 'off' once warmed up, ATF is in the dampeners, new SM needles are set properly, valves are adjusted, timing is spot on at 7 dbtdc, my vacuum advance does work as designed, and there is no un-metered air entering into the system. When I'm running 'rich' (or at least as I've described above) the spark plugs are black & sooty, whereas when I'm running 'lean' (or at least in my mind as described above) I'm seeing a nice whitish color on the plugs. Do I run any risks by not having the piston-lift test work properly? I'm torn between the piston-lift test and achieving the highest amount of vacuum at idle. Any suggestions? I'm looking for the reliability, fuel efficiency, and performance that I know the stock '72 setup will provide me. Thanks a lot!

Zero is the bottom dash on your photo above. When you rev the engine, timing will 'advance' and move up the marks.

Here's the site I used recently to replace my vent hoses.... http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/tankvents/tankvents.html

Is the Servo Diaphragm (#4 above) supposed to hold vacuum? Mine isn't so I'm contemplating just pulling the whole thing off. Any suggestions?

Can anyone else speak to their experience with Datsun Parts LLC cylinder heads? My biggest question right now is do they have hardened valve seats in the e88's, or will I need to continue to run a lead substitute?

I would check the nozzles first. Also, if the choke is left on or if the needles aren't properly inserted gas can leak down from the carb body itself. You may want to check out the Z-Therapy videos, they've really helped me understand how my SU's function.

As info, I sold my kit (the picture above, plus the mounting bracket) for $350 plus shipping...I think that was quite a steal for the buyer, but I wanted to get rid of it.

Does anyone know if the Servo Diaphragm on the balance tube is supposed to hold vacuum or not? I just pulled the hose & tried sucking through my mouth & the control arm did move (as it should) but it definitely did not hold vacuum. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

I believe the dealer fan was a "puller" rather than a "pusher" of air...poor design. I agree with everyone else, if you want A/C get a modern system which will be more reliable and give less parasitic draw than the dealer hog.

As I had a hard time trying to find info on dealer-installed A/C's, I wanted to share what I was able to come across. Please note that I've since sold this setup, but it should give those of you interested in A/C some ideas.

I just received my ZTherapy 3-screw rebuild kit from Bruce and I noticed that it now includes float-bowl pins rather than the ballbearing gross-jets discussed in the videos. Is this correct or should I look into it further? Has anyone else recently purchased a rebuild kit?

I used Dependable Auto Shippers (DAS) to get an eBay find from Texas to Chicago back in May. Horrible communication, but they were spot on with their 2 week delivery date. I've never heard of anyone with a good experience with a shipping company. If I had to do it again, I'd fly out to where the car was & trailer it back with a rental truck. Probably would be quicker & cheaper (it was ~$800 to ship with DAS).

jharvat -- Great to hear you're pleased with the results of AD. Can you please let me know how much they charged for the rebuild service as well as the turn-around time? Thanks.

I was on a similar hunt and found a lightly used points distributor for my 240z on eBay for $45 shipped. I spoke to Cardone and they said that I could send in my current distributor via Napa and they would rebuild it...only problem is it takes 8+ weeks!! I'd suggest piecing together what you need.

You can pull the distributor cap off, and then pull the vacuum advance hose off of the front carb. Suck on the hose & look for the breaker plate within the distributor to move. Also, if when you 'suck' the vacuum should hold. If it doesn't then the diaphragm inside is shot.