Jarvo2

I pulled my original cardboard out from the front, same for inserting the new Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

I uploaded a bunch to the files section a couple weeks ago. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

For all those with the original style paper/cardboard glove box insert (left image) in their 240z, I found a cheap and easy way to upgrade to a plastic insert from a later 280z (right image). I picked my used 280z insert up for $10 on ebay a while back. Here is the picture of what I started with. A huge cut in the back of my cardboard insert from the prior owner. Its only gotten bigger since I've owned the car Old and new side by side. The 280z plastic insert will need to be trimmed to fit. There are various approaches, I chose to trim just the bottom tab and the made a new hole for the glove box door arm The finished product is much nicer than what I had in there originally. I did need to mount the glove box door first and then slide the new insert in. I also put screws into these front holes to hold it better. I probably could have trimmed down the side tabs as well and use the original holes, but this seemed like a much more secure way of mounting the insert. I will probably look to finish the bottom edge better and possibly heat the plastic to shape it better. This post has been promoted to an article

Agree that you should look how your needles are seated, and you may also want to check your float bowl levels. Here's some more I was able to dig up... SU_Needles.xls Needle charts pp 47 to 49.pdf

I found some shorty air-horns for mounting to my SU's. I would think something should be available for Webers as well.

Sounds like a fuel mapping (needle profile) issue based on your configuration. I've never heard of anyone running SM's say that it runs too lean, always too rich. Might want to look at some other needle profiles or to grind down your SMs even more. I know several on the board here have done it. Attached is an SU book that I've acquired in my travels. You may also want to monitor your fuel pressure, should be low for carb'ed engines, but you'll want to make sure your electric pump is providing enough fuel and the bowls aren't drying out at high RPMs. Fuel_SU-Carb_bmc_needle_chart_1965.pdf

Really depends on how wide of tire you put on, and its the front that will rub when you turn. I wanted to go 225, but I'm not ready to replace my front valance (yet).

Yes, you'll need bigger wheels to fit the larger calipers. I just put a set of 16x7, zero offset Konig Rewind wheels on my '72 240z with 205/55R16 Cooper tires on it. Next to no rub and the combination looks real good (in my opinion). I ordered them from DiscountTireDirect.com and due to a system glitch got a super deal for around $600 that they decided to honor. They fit a lot better than my Xterra 32's that I put next to the car for comparison with the original 14" steelies.

Why not just tint the rear window and quarter windows? Probably your least costly and most effective way of keeping the sun out of the interior.

This looks overpriced. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Rear-Window-Hatch-Louvre-Made-By-Interpart-/291747624079?hash=item43ed83748f:g:C-IAAOSwI-BWKVEZ&vxp=mtr

Kirak: I had the type of louvers that you are looking for and I was disappointed with how it mounts onto the hatch and so I got rid of mine about two years ago. They pop up every now & then for around $150 on this site and/or ebay. Just be forewarned that the mounts need to slip under the rear hatch window seal, It didn't look like it would be very water tight. Also, louvers will always rattle.

Correct

Agreed. Either rebuild them yourself or ship them off to zTherepy for their full service, its well worth it.

Sorry, just sold my last set of SU's that were refurbished. Not sure when I'll get another set of decent cores to rebuild, but I'll keep you in mind and let ya know. Here's some pictures of my prior work. For someone who is adventurous, SU carbs are really very simple to rebuild. zTherepy sells a great rebuild kit. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html

Here's how I rewired an aftermarket antenna to function with the Datsun up/down switch & original wiring. Works perfect and very low cost. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/amfm-antenna-upgrade.html

Is this the piece you're looking for? I have a spare that is degreased and just sitting in my attic. I pulled it off of a '77 280z when I grabbed the 5spd transmission.

I have a front Amco bar from my '72 if anyone is looking. No rear though. For reference I just sold my parcel bar today for $150, they're becoming desirable if anyone is looking to liquidate.

Universal bottle for my radiator overflow mounted in front of the bulkhead. Top hole is left unplugged for ventilation (hose connected in the picture so it wouldn't leak!).

I didn't use the sliders because they gave a bad seat height (I'm 6'2"). I tried both Mazda sliders & Datsun sliders. Here's my attempts: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2014/04/miata-seats-installed.html

I'm running early Miata seats which fit great after I fabricated a better mounting approach without sliders. The fit in the cockpit well and are very comfortable.

I love these SU carbs and have rebuilt many sets over the past couple years. Happy to help out fellow enthusiasts! Its fun turning beat up and worn out examples and refurbishing them. Here are some before & after pics...

'72 are cone shaped. Agree with everything that Capn' Obvious stated. On several sets that I've rebuilt I've had to knock off the nubs as well as tighten/loosen the dome screws at different intervals to get it to line up correctly to prevent interference.

The writeup on zhome.com seems to be the best out there (thanks Carl!). Here's a link to the page directly: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm I'm running this setup in my '72 without any issues.