Jarvo2

If you're going through the pain of replacing the weatherstriping, I'd suggest get something new as that looks like it will continue to deteriorate over the next couple of years.

Don't forget about the crap baked onto the interior floor pan as a sound deadner. I've heard you need to use dry ice to crack it off!

Regardless of what is used, grease the heck out of it! I even sprayed silicon lubricant into the cable housing. The Piano wire seems to be more flexible than lawnmower cable, so it'll pull/push smoother.

My car rarely sees any precipitation, so I'm not worried about the steel wire -- my guess is that's what the original was too. Keeping it well greased helps too.

Last night I replaced the choke (cold start) cables for the carburetors. They need to slide freely and after 44 years of usage and most likely never being lubricated since new, it was time. After doing some research I found that 0.055" Piano wire is the best option for replacement as its affordable and able to push and pull, which is required. I also have more than enough left over and only paid $4.60.After disconnecting the cables from the carbs and pulling the center console apart, I removed the cables from inside the cabin, then measured the length needed. I left myself an extra foot before I cut the Piano wire. I bent it around the mounting plate and then lubed it very very very good before fishing it back into the housing and reconnecting. I'm very pleased with the results!Link to Piano Wire used:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002M3JQGC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Try McMaster Carr, they've got the best selection. Here are a bunch of pictures that might help in your journey:

Fully disassembled, inspected, and rebuilt to factory specifications set of early Datsun 240z 4-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, linkage to the firewall and air filter housing with OEM Nissan air cleaner/filter. As an option, you may choose the customer K&N filter setup instead of the OEM orange filter setup, or have both for an additional $50. Domes and pistons are polished and bodies have been painted with high-temp Eastwood fuel-resistant paint and baked to cure. Also included is a Vacuum gauge installed on the balance tube to help diagnose engine problems and tune the carburetors This is a perfect kit for the 260z and 280z owners who want to upgrade to the reliable and high performance round-top carbs. Ready to bolt on and begin using! Professional installation is recommended as fine tuning may be required depending on the condition of your engine, gasoline used, and other variables not related to the carburetors. As with anything that is 43+ years old, these are not perfect but are great performers. This set is being sold as-is for $750, shipped anywhere in the USA. PayPal friendly and ready to ship within 1 business day of payment. More Pictures @ http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html .

only the float (rubber) itself is cracked. The bowl is in great condition. I believe its for the right carb (closest to the firewall). Happy to ship just the bowl to you for $35 via paypal.

Vacuum emission device has been sold, everything else is still available. Need a single part, let me know & we'll work out a deal!!

I let this beauty go a couple years ago for $800. Glove-box mounted. radio & 8-track. Also included a set of rear speakers that mounted over the taillight access panels.

Lot of miscellaneous hitatchi SU carburetor parts. Includes float bowl, 3 screw carb body, 3 screw dome top, 4 screw carb body, 4 screw dome top, 2 Pistons, 2 nozzles, 2 SM needles, 3 needle valves, cracked float, and miscellaneous throttle openers. All have been ultrasonic cleaned and degreased. What ya see is what ya get! All being sold as is. $100 OBO free shipping!

Here's the approach that I took with my '72 240z.

Wow 26th-Z, yours is in much better shape than mine was!

I had an original and sold it a couple years ago for about $450. Here are some more detailed pictures.

I'm on the same page, looking to built my own as well. I'm actually debating about just building a body stand rather than a rotisserie. Here's some pictures I've acquired throughout my travels & planning. Sounds like the cheapo harbor freight engine stands need to be increased in height to allow for full rotation. I've also seen some cheapo wooden rollers but that doesn't look too stable. Also check out the great info (PDF) from the Atlantic Z Club. Rotissary.pdf

I agree, I like the contrasting color. I'm hoping once my car is ready for paint to match my BRE Spoiler color to the small bump-up section of my hood in a flat black.

it'll be a little harder to push the brake pedal, but you'll still be able to stop. I wouldn't drive it for 100's of miles with the booster blocked off, or in heavy traffic, but certainly for diagnostic purposes, its the easiest thing to try!

I used the poly replacement & its a very stiff feeling now. Strongly suggest trying to get a rubber part if you can chase one down. My original was way too worn, so I needed to replace it & had the poly on hand.

Here's my adventures with replacing my brake booster... http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/10/brake-booster.html

PM Sent (Vinyl)

Has the subject of Needles been explored yet? Stock Needles (N27/M58/etc) are known to idle rich and run lean at speed. Rich = cooler, lean = hotter. This is normally fine to be leaner & hotter at speed as the fan is pumping more air and air is flowing through the radiator. Now with SM needles its the complete opposite. Leaner at idle and richer at high RPM. Could it be as simple as his fuel mapping through his SU needles?

Great suggestion, just added it and several others from my collection.

I know you're running round-tops, but the concepts within this Fuel System Modification guide may prove useful as well in your current situation. Fuel-1973 240z 1974 260z fuel system modifications.pdf

Here are some good pictures of my experience with the BRE2.net spoiler that I recently acquired. As with any of these fiberglass pieces, some "work" will be required to have them fit seamlessly. Once my car goes into paint I'll be sanding down the high spots of the BRE rear spoiler to get that proper fitment. I like the BRE because it mounts with 6 screws rather than just 2 as a lot of the other versions have. Best of luck. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/bre-rear-spoiler-install.html