Jarvo2

Agreed.

Have you guys tried blowing out the fuel return line with compressed air? Gotta keep the fuel circulating to prevent vaporlock.

Agreed with the rest, gauge reading looks good. There's also that Water Wetter product that you can put in the radiator to make everything run cooler. http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=117&pcid=10

Might want to think about rebuilding your engine then. Check out all of the 40+ year old gunk that I found inside the water passages of my '72 240z as well as the clogged PCV filter screen inside the engine block.

Must be that hot cam that he's running then.

Ok, so you have air, you have fuel, how about spark? Several follow up questions: 1) Are you running points or electronic ignition? 2) Have you upgraded your voltage regulator to an internally regulated alternator & voltage regulator bypass? 3) What octane fuel/gas do you use? 4) How loose is your distributor shaft / rotor?

Here's for the super collector... http://smile.amazon.com/Paul-Newmans-personally-racing-jacket/dp/B00F97S5CE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450383148&sr=8-1&keywords=datsun+jacket

I strongly recommend the MSA / Dave Irwin harness for ease of use, but in case you choose to tackle it yourself, here's some info that I collected along my journey: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2014/07/headlight-wiring-harness-with-relays.html

Awesome & Knowledgeable guys as well. Been great to do business with in the past (and future!)

I just picked up a set of SU Rams (mini velocity stacks) that I put under my K&N filters and so far I'm very pleased with the performance results. I also switched out my smogger M58 needles to N27's which I'm sure added to a lot of the gain. Shipping from the UK took about 2 weeks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/151414457890?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm about to start building a replacement fuse block for a lot less than the MSA $200 version. If I'm happy with the results, I may try to make a couple of them and offer them for a more affordable price-point. My goal is to have a plug-and-play block that fits in the stock location and functions well. 10-fuse block: http://www.johnnylawmotors.com/catalog/power-electrical-systems/fuses-and-circuits/fuse-blocks/KICKFB2/universal-10-atc-fuse-block-with-cover Connectors (MP4N Non-Latching Set): http://www.vintageconnections.com/ShoppingCart.htm If you want something fancier, this is another good resource that I found... http://www.motortopia.com/car-pictures/centech-fuse-box-conversion-14416

Agree the Irwin/MSA harness is the best, but for those wanting to build their own.... http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2014/07/headlight-wiring-harness-with-relays.html

Vacuum Gauge install: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2012/11/vacuum-gauge-installed.html

I've got one of these mounted on my balance tube & it really helps with tuning. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3125/overview/

Might want to run a vacuum gauge on the engine to see what else is going on. A compression test is only one part of the diagnostics.

I'm happy with the MSA exhaust system. Here's a picture of the new MSA compared to my old set of twice pipes

If you can't get your hand on the Z-Therapy DVD, check out YouTube for tuning SU Carbs. This video is for an MG, but its the same concept for our Datsuns. My guess is that your carbs are not your issue, most likely 40+ year old engine that needs to be fully rebuilt. http://youtu.be/4nvGLgO6pj0?list=PLFD71AE1E7D0C1B1D

These have been sold. Should have priced them higher

After receiving several bits of private feedback, I'd like to offer my kit for $750, shipped. Includes recently rebuilt set of 1972 Datsun 240z 3-screw Hitachi SU Carburetors, E88 intake manifold, balance tube, heat shield, springs, linkage, and K&N performance air filters. Please reference the link below for more detailed information and additional photos http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/10/240z-round-top-carburetor-kit-for-sale.html

Here's my approach on adjusting the floats. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/06/carb-float-levels-sightglass.html

I have an extra set of 3-screw roundtop SU's from a '72 240z, along with the E88 manifold/spacers, balance-tube, linkage, heat shield, and K&N filters that I'm looking to sell in the near future. They've been rebuilt with the ZTherapy rebuild kit (needles, gaskets, nozzles, etc) and cleaned up very well. They're not show quality, but they're very nice looking and perform very well. I've been running them on my '72 to ensure they're properly tuned. Basically a good setup for someone looking to convert from flat-tops or EFI over to round-tops. What is the current going rate for a setup like this? Just wondering if its worth keeping them or selling them. Thanks for the insight.

Guess I stumped everyone with my find of a 369 needle!! I'll probably just end up putting a set of SM's or N27's in these and see how they work.

Picture of my carb barn find...

Recently picked up a used set of 3-screw roundtop SU's that I plan to restore as a back-up set and last night when I was disassembling them, I noticed the needles are engraved as "369". The previous owner said that the carbs were from a '72 SCCA racer, so I'm guessing they're richer needles. I was really hoping to see a ZT serial number on the throttle shaft, but I couldn't find one, but the floats do appear to be newer and the rest of the carb body appears to be in good shape (under about 20 years of dust & grime). Has anyone heard of a 369 needle?

You can continue to throw good money at a poorly tuned engine, but I'd suggest: 1) Start with ensuring the valves are adjusted corrrectly 2) Confirm emissions gear is working as designed, or blocked off & no vacuum leaks (and also check your PCV valve to make sure it rattles freely) 3) Set timing to specs 4) Tune the carbs Also remember, a 40+ year old car is not going to idle like a new modern fuel injected car, it has its own character with the gurgly idle. You may also be due for a full engine rebuild (top & bottom) if its never been done. Between old worn rings, bad gaskets/seals, and years of gunk growing in the engine, that could add to a poor idle. Check out what was living in my PCV filter of my '72 240z and the carbon buildup on the cylinders: