Jarvo2

I'm looking for a 280z/zx 5-speed transmission in the Chicagoland area that I can transplant into my '72 240z.

What about the 98-01 Altima spares that I've heard successes with? I'm just about to pick one up from eBay.

Check out the pictures on the website. I love the hidden HVAC controls. Seattle Used 1973 Datsun 240

Unless its in immaculate condition, I would say you should shoot for under $1500. Check the framerails and floorboards (look from underneath & lift up the carpets inside). Fluids should be changed and probably need to look at the gas tank to make sure it was stored properly. Be ready to invest quite a bit in new seals, gaskets, rubber, etc. I'm enjoying the fun journey on my '72 which was running that I picked up for $2k in Texas. Mine came with a ton of new parts, so it made the deal worth it (at least for me). Best of luck!

I ran across this document during my travels...it will answer your question & more. Enjoy! Datsun Torque Specifications.pdf

Here are the original instructions that came with the factory side decals.

I pulled the 19mm bolt out as well as the two springs (one inside of the other). They were pretty gummed up so I cleaned thoroughly & while they were out, my shifter moved left & right as its supposed to. It was very sloppy obviously since there were no springs to return it to center. Reinstalled everything and it seems to be working. I do believe that the larger spring is not tight enough as the first shiftgate on the left (1/2) doesn't return to center as quickly as the right shiftgate ®. At least I'll now be able to get into reverse without bending the shifter! Thanks for your support.

I've been looking around and I believe this is what the springs will look like when they come out...

Thanks for the advice guys! I'm going to try to pop out my plug later today to see if that makes the situation any better, if so then I'll look to lube up the springs and/or replace them.

Is it possible to repair/replace the Spring Return(#24) and Spring Reverse Check (#25) while the transmission is still attached to the engine & its mounted in the car? My problem is that there is no spring rebound when I pull the shifter out of 1st/2nd (does not return to the center) and its very very difficult to move the shifter to the right to get it into reverse. Once Its in reverse I can move it back & forth freely until I let the car sit for a while. I'm thinking these two springs are all gummed up or something. Has anyone had any experience with this? If I need to pull the transmission & pull it appart, I'm probably just going to find a 5spd to put in & rebuild the 5spd at some point. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Transmission Control Lever & Fork (4 Speed-F4W71B) (From Sep.-'71)

Any chance its a frozen caliper or the parking brake isn't disengaging? Sounds like its fine under power. Does this happen when you're driving in lets say 3rd gear & then just push the clutch in without moving the shifter? Or it might be the differential is all gummed up.

I have a '72 with a Pertronix & it works great, no tach issues. Check out http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm & make sure you follow their wiring diagram.

Is a 20ton press really required? I've been eyeing up a 12 ton and its a heck of a lot cheaper than the 20ton.

Here are some from Road America in the early 80's...

Has anyone used non-Nissan strut mounts, suchas the KYB SM5064? Its killing me to spend $70+ on each mount! KYB SM5064 Strut Mounts

I'll have to hook my FP pressure gauge up to see exactly what I'm getting. For those paying attention to this thread, I did locate pictures of the OEM fuel pump, hoses, and parts sheet (compliments of a seller on eBay). The interesting thing is that the Nissan wiring harness is just an inline fuse, nothing to do with an oil pressure switch nor inertia switch. At least the OEM harness is powered by the ignition.

Better shot of the electric fuel pump as well as the block-off plate on the head.

Here are my latest photos of the relay and oil pressure gauge. I provided an initial wiring pic as well as one after I bundled the wires with electrical tape. Although this is new tape, it somewhat matches the 40+ year old tape that was used for the factory harness.

I just had this happen myself. I soaked it with pb blaster & then used vice grips to back it out. Just take your time!!

Thanks for the offer and info, Carl. I'm not too keen on cutting springs, so right now I'm leaning towards the Tokico spring/strut kit.

I can't say for sure that I've had vapor lock, but the engine (even with rebuilt carbs) has never run well. My carb's run much better now with the electric fuel pump. My guess is that my 40 year old mechanical pump was the issue, probably a bad diaphragm. I did remove the mechanical pump completely, along with a block-off plate. I do have a NOS mechanical pump that I've got on the shelf, but I like the idea of running an electric pump in this driver. More pictures of the wiring to come soon.

I'm pleased to report that everything is working as designed (and no leaks!). I can not believe how quiet the fuel pump is!

I ended up putting it on the firewall inside the engine bay. Once I clean up the wires (taping & making them look 'factory') I will post some additional photos.

Carl: I know its been a couple years, but do you have any suggestions as to replacement springs for a 240z? I'd love to get my hands on a NOS set of US or Euro springs, but I can't find them anywhere.

In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and miscellaneous connectors Fuel Hose My first step was to plumb the engine block for an Oil Sensor Safety Switch. As you can see from the picture below, I inserted a "T" joint to allow me to keep the current oil pressure gauge (second picture) as well as the new safety switch. Next I needed to design a reliable and safe wiring scheme which would incorporate the factory wiring for a fuel pump but also allow for the safety switch and relay. In the diagram I drew below, the GRN wire and the BLK/WHT already exist in the wiring harnesses; the plug is just taped to another set of wires below the fuse box. The fuel wire harness is held with blue tape (see circle). The BLK/WHT wire is live with the ignition switch. The GRN wire goes back to the fuel pump (wired from the factory). There are two unused harnesses. Left is the Fuel Pump, right is the Fog Lights Here are two initial photos of the new electric fuel pump installed. I ended up using an existing bolt/nut for the mustache bar to mount the pump.