Wade Nelson

Did you try running it with the gas cap off yet?

Try running it with the gas cap off and see if you have the same problem.

This is a classic voltage drop problem. Turn on the headlights. Now measure the voltage across the battery. Should be 12.4-12.6 volts or so, engine off. Now measure the voltage AT the headlight itself. Chances are you'll only see 11.5 or so. So you're missing around .9Volts. That is a voltage "DROP" The trick is to find where you're losing that voltage; in a dirty relay contact, at a poor ground, in a poor crimp. One of those is adding resistance to your circuit, and when the headlight current flows through it, well, V= IR, the resistance times the headlight current equals around .9 volts of "drop" You can lose voltage on either the ground side OR the positive side of the headlight circuit. Start by running a wire from battery ground directly to the headlight connector. Does your bulb suddenly get a lot brighter? Then you probably have a bad ground; paint underneath a ring terminal, whatever so your headlight isn't seeing zero volts like it should. Next run a wire directly from battery plus (B+) to the headlight connector? Does it get brighter? Next, using your meter trace back through the relays, switches, connectors, fuses, till you find where the voltage is getting dropped. A little corrosion, a very little resistance (as little as 1/10 of an ohm) and you can create a significant voltage drop that will make headlamps dim.

Anyone got a source for these? I"m so tired of wind noise! Is Nissan still selling them? Thanks! Wade

The hardest part of "I spy a Z" is conducting a successful search to FIND this forum. Apparently "Spy and Z" are too short for the search engine. Ideas, anyone? Ok so down at Panera Bread, on Airport Road, Huntsville Alabama, a nice 240Z with an air dam and a missing grille. Nice paint job, decent original interior. Some decals on the rear hatch, Redstone Arsenal sticker on the windshield. Tires / wheels not so pretty.

'Rarest of the rare': 500 unsold, vintage Chevrolets on sale - San Jose Mercury News Wow. I'd love to just go look at them or sit in on the auction.

Is the tow rope included?

Time to get back to basics. You SAY good compression, what are the #'s, dry and wet? If you spritz starting fluid / faux fuel, does cylinder #1 start firing? Then it's a fuel / injector problem. When you pull the wire off the plug do you have spark? Then it's an ignition problem. If you put a stethoscope on the injector, can you hear it clicking?

As an electrical engineer I've got to call b.s. on this "theory" A fuse may have corrosion on the outside that adds resistance to the circuit, and dims the lights, but the fuse itself is either 0% or 100%. No cigar.

No, unless someone replaced them, they're not stainless steel. Suggestion; take this to a muffler shop where they have a rack and air tools and just have 'em fix it. Unless you like grinding and drilling lying on your back underneath a car and getting crud in your eyes. You'll probably break a drill bit or two in the process; have spares.

Gradual contamination of the AC charge with water results in the production of acids within the system. Those eat the core and the condensor from the inside out. TIG weld one hole closed and you'll have another one next week. Suggest you replace both, get a good system evacuation, and then recharge the system. Holding the system under vacuum for a sufficient amount of time will "boil out" any water in the system. A good AC shop is invaluable; honestly, there are LOTS of shops who have an "AC machine" but the techs don't have a clue what they're doing. I know, caused I worked at several of them. You want a guy who's been working on AC systems SINCE the R-12 days...

Same here.

D'oh! Because if you don't pass the inspection they don't give you your license plates / sticker.

Throw out an anchor instead of using the brakes?

Restriction in the T-valve, perhaps?