Wade Nelson

+1 on the ball joints. Replacing the BJ's in my 280ZX led to a MASSIVE improvement in steerability, and return-to-center.

My 1980 280ZX developed a problem with extended cranking / complete no start at subfreezing temperatures. Of course it was intermittent, which has made diagnosis a real challenge. Nothing like diagnosis work in a subfreezing garage, eh? Tools sticking to your hand....unable to wear gloves and do fine work... I eventually found, using a NOID light, that the main injectors sometimes are not firing while cranking at bitter cold temperatures. I don't know what the cause is, I had to abandon the car to come take care of a sick parent. It should be a fairly simple diagnosis and repair, most likely, a fuel injection main relay failure / dirty contacts. You might want to CONFIRM yo'ure getting main injection events since you report your problem is temperature related. I knew it was fuel related because with a big blast of starting fluid she would start immediately no matter what the temperature. You might similarly confirm your problem is fuel, and not ignition related. W

Unless you've got a lift and air tools, and LIKE using every bit of your strength and big levers to work on such things, take it to a reputable shop and tell them to fix your steering and suspension. YOu've got some seriously (dangerously) worn components.

As far as stoplight acceleration (aka drag racing...) a couple of interesting tidbits. The hybrid Honda CRZ, 2013 model, has a "S" button that gives you maximum ELECTRICAL MOTOR boost during take-off for best possible launch performance. A neat way to bring a modestly powered car up to reasonable take-off performance, imho. BMW's, of course, have "launch" controls but I'm told after you use them more than "X" number of times your warranty (at least on the tranny) is voided. Sounds like B.S., but my BMW aficionado buddy swears its so. Using a battery + electric motor, flywheel, or a big rubber band for improved launch performance on underpowered cars seems like a no brainer. Getting tailgated by an SUV or big truck pulling away from lights is highly annoying.

I also added a manual switch to the fuel pump so I could circulate fresh fuel prior to cranking, in an effort to defeat what I thought was vapor locking. Made no difference. Running alcohol-free fuel makes a big difference on mine. The injector cooling fan seems pretty worthless, imho. What's really needed is a big electric radiator fan to blow out the entire engine bay of hot air, wired on a timer AND thermostat. I eventually created THAT setup on my Jaguar XKE and had one of the few that didn't lose coolant every time it hot soaked. The continual loss of coolant was the death of Jaguars and Vegas alike, neither of which had a "big enough" coolant overflow bottle.

I just realized that the S2000 is another 4 cylinder. I"m sure it's a wild ride but I'm sick of getting run over at stoplights by people in Altima's with automatic transmissions. I want at least a six cylinder for better take-off performance. I want them looking at MY taillights when the light turns green. Does anyone else face this annoyance? A 4 cylinder that just doesn't leave the line fast enough for your taste?

The solution to a problem like this is found by going BACK TO BASICS. You've got to determine if it's an ignition or a fuel problem. Start it up and add extra fuel --- starting fluid, brake fluid, anything flammable. Give it lots. If the problem goes away, you've got a fuel or vapor lock problem. If not, Unless you have access to an old-style ignition scope, the big ole Sun machines, replace ALL the plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap. This is called "diagnosis by throwing parts at it." I'd suggest acquiring a vacuum gauge and seeing what's going on as well, another 20 seconds that will give you invaluable information. If you have a sticking valve guide, valve that's badly out of adjustment, etc, you'll INSTANTLY know with a vacuum gauge. A valve with zero clearance can be VERY temperature sensitive, once coolant is flowing, etc it can close "just enough" for the engine to run properly. You can have this problem properly diagnosed by lunchtime today.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-280zx/47643-thermotime-wiring-not-so-simple.html

Wow, great input. I'll take a look at the S2000. They're a whole lot cheaper than the other choices. I actually haven't gotten to drive one yet.

Take an hour or so and search on cold start valve on this site. I've posted extensively on diagnosing that system, but I don't care to re-type it all. Another way to get to those posts is to review my history. Lot of stuff there.

My current thinking is one of those never-crashed, hyper-low mileage cars on Ebay. A'94 Acura NSX. A reliable exotic.

Don't waste your $ on a $$$ batttery like an Optima. Fix your electrical problems, whatever they are instead. A middle of the road Interstate battery should last you 7-10 years provided you top it up with water once a year. Trickle charge it if you garage your machine for the winter. And repair whatever parasitic draw or charging problem you have that's even making you CONSIDER buying such a fancy battery.

The wife or the car?

I always kinda liked the Saab Sonnet (sp?)

I'm laughing at the splice to the blower motor. Obviously the fan control failed and someone wired in a toggle switch. Redneck Repairs LLC.

Hey, I'm looking for some advice (imagine that!) Trying to figure out what to get for my next sports car. My 91 turbo MR2 is getting a little tired. it's always been lousy coming off the line. I love it from 40-90 and it gets fabulous mileage, great looks, aerodynamics, but I can't find anyone qualified to rebuild the tranny, put in new synchros, etc. Lots of backlash too when I let off the gas. Bottom line is I really have to feather the transmission no matter what I'm doing. d My 1980 280ZX is a lot better off the line, nice on the highway, but it's an endless project. Two things fail before I get the last thing fixed. Synchros are shot in it as well I have to shift slowly and carefully. Since it's a rust bucket there's no point sinking any real $ in it. I've looked heavily at Boxsters, driven 'em, tried to buy two of them (couldn't reach agreement on $) but I'm actually not all that partial to ragtops. The new C7 Vette actually looks beautiful , and I'm sure it's deadly coming off the line with a big throaty V8. Downsides: Gas mileage, crawling down INTO it, every ddckwad seems to own one. What else should I be looking at, driving?

My recommendation: Buy oil in bulk and dump the GF. Install a decent stereo and some good speakers and the squeaks and rattles will magically disappear. You mean as rpm's drop the headlights get dimmer at night? I'd suggest you take it to an auto electric shop and have them do a charging system analysis (about $75) before I did ANYTHING. If you're resistant to hiring professionals, then measure your battery voltage (engine off, idling, 3000 rpm) and report back and I can perhaps give you a "next step." You SHOULD be seeing 12.5-12.6, 13.2 or so, and 13.8 or better at those three points. Regulators DO wear out and instead of trying to replace or adjust 'em switching to an internally regulated alternator IS a good upgrade, PROVIDED ITS DONE CORRECTLY BY A QUALIFIED AUTO ELECTRICIAN. But you CAN have a lot of fun if you're willing to screw around and learn how to adjust your regulator. Dial it up to 14.4 volts or so and you can turn your headlights into flamethrowers. Get a spare or junkyard unit to play with until you figure out what you're doing.

Could you please describe what a lean idle sounds like? If you enrichen it with faux fuel (starting fluid, spray brake cleaner, anything aerosol and flammable...) does the idle sound better?

Check the pawn shops. I picked up a nifty little Lincoln wire feed for $300. They run around $800 new. Lincoln is THE name in welders, #1, since forever, and Millers are #2. You can get parts and service anywhere. I really, really prefer having a gas bottle over using flux-core wire. Makes a world of difference in leaving behind beautiful beads. Buy a gas-compatible unit and you can always add gas later; a new bottle & regulators off eBay will run you less than $200. Oh, but be sure and take some angle iron (and a helmet) with you and test the thing out in the parking lot before you buy it. Lot of guys pass off their broken equipment to pawn shops, who don't know how to test it.

Lube those bushings. Don't miss a single spot. Put lube on the metal parts you're putting them on as well, so you've got double the chance of 100% coverage. If some gets wiped off during the install, do it over. Otherwise you'll be hating life listening to those urethane bushings squeak over every bump

Here's an interesting tidbit. The CRZ comes in either stick shift or CVT models. The CVT model gets better mileage, EVEN ON THE HIGHWAY. It's simply unnatural for most of us to lug an engine as heavily as is required to obtain maximum MPG's, but the CVT does it without guilt or worry.

How rare? Impossibly rare.

Apparently none of the auto magazines "get" the Honda CRZ hybrid. I "get" it. With the flip of a button you can go from a 45mpg hyper-miling gas-sipper to a zippy little sports car. The CRZ offers the best of both worlds, IMHO, and I urge you to test drive one. Be sure and try "SPORT" mode! But learning how to GET 40-50mpg out of a hybrid is more than just coasting up to stoplights. You constantly have to think about energy management, and frequently "lug" the motor. Mind you, I'm not the kinda guy accustomed to lugging a DOHC Honda motor at 45mph in sixth gear. Yes, SIXTH. But that's how you get the superb mileage. Let the battery and the ELECTRIC motor boost you up small hills, and regenerate on the way down. Regeneration on the CRZ works different than on the Prius. On the Prius, you just step on the brakes. Press "B-mode" for greater re-gen. In the CRZ you actually have to be in gear, and braking to regen the battery. The battery is VERY small. If the hill you have to climb is more than 1/2 mile long, you'll deplete the battery. You've got a state of charge meter on the dash so you know exactly where you are, and what you have left. If you "ride" the brakes a bit coming down the hill you'll quickly recharge (re-gen) the battery. You find yourself constantly looking for re-gen opportunities. The CRZ has automatic motor start-stop. Boy does THAT take some mental getting used to, the first time you pull up to a stoplight and she goes completely silent on you. Silence is actually a problem on the CRZ. The exhaust note is TOO quiet, so I found myself over-reving take-offs on occasion. Here's how I drive it: I'll take off from the light in first gear, pull away from the cars behind me a bit. Then I'll shift to 3rd, then 5th, lug the motor, and allow the ELECTRIC motor to get me up to the speed limit or 5 over or whatever I'm doing that day. Like I said, its very WEIRD to be lugging a high revving little HOnda DOHC motor with Vtec. But that's where the great gas mileage is found. But now and then you want to zip, select SPORT mode and she runs like a scalded rabbit! Tres fun!!! In full economy mode, it APPEARS that Honda completely kills the "accelerator pump" feature of the fuel injection. Gutless to the max. Normal mode feels pretty normal And it really does have a lot of ZIP in SPORT mode. It's not like SOME cars where you can't feel the difference between the different settings. Here it's pronounced. Hey, I love my 280ZX and my turbo MR-2, but I need something hyper-reliable, and super-gas mileage for when gas goes back to $4.50 a gallon. The CRZ to me is the best of both worlds. I'm extremely happy with my choice. Go test drive one today!

Get an expert to drive your car. Chances are if your car twitches side to side you've got insufficient toe-in. Just a fraction of an inch of toe-out and the thing will absolutely LURCH into the other lane if you even THINK about it. How are your tires? Matched front and rear? In good shape, matched wear? If you've got uneven wear, replace them. Attempting to do an alignment on anything but almost new tires is a waste of effort! Replace your tie rod ends, for starters. And something very simple, check how tight your axle nuts are on. Mine were loose! After that I"d do sway bar ends and bushings, a very easy (and cheap) job. Front and rear. If your twitching is coming from the rear end you've got some work to do. With less than $300 in parts and labor my 280ZX went from twitchy, nervous, seemingly trying to kill me to smooth and controllable.