Wade Nelson

I'm gonna agree with you. The air flowing through the AAR is getting metered by the AFM, and the ECM is injecting fuel on the total amount of air, both that passing around the throttle throttle and that passing through the AAR, so all it's doing is providing a second pathway. Unless it's disturbing laminar flow or turbulence or swirl or something beneficial within the intake manifold it's hard to see how it could cost any measurable amount of power. Unless this guy has demonstrated a loss on a dyno, he probably misspoke based on some incorrect assumption.

Here's the killer paragraph from this website: Cleaning the AAV almost always seems to fix them. If it doesn't you may try playing with the little adjustment nut on it. It seems that some AAVs close fully, but don't open very far. This is optimum for horsepower but not for starting in near freezing temperatures. Others open a lot giving great cold starting but don't close all the way which robs some horsepower. With the adjustment nut and a lot of patience you can set up your AAV to suit your needs...well, sometimes...maybe. Furthermore if you adjust the AAV you will probably need to re adjust your idle speed. To optimize it for cold starting take a cool AAV that is at least partially open and jam something inside it to keep it from closing. Now loosen the adjustment nut and then force the AAV to open up a little more. Now while holding it open tighten the nut. That will bias the AAV toward effective cold starting. @To bias it toward more horsepower you can just loosen the nut on a warm AAV, it should then close fully. At this point tighten the nut. You will gain a little power but cold starting will suffer. If you fiddle with it enough you can get it to open most of the way and close most of the way which is how most of them work from the factory. If you have cleaned it, adjusted it and still can't get it to open and close properly you will have to buy another.

If I'm not mistaken, the cold start valve ONLY sprays fuel when the engine is being cranked. The 30 second time-out the Thermotime switch provides to to prevent flooding the engine during extended cranking." Perhaps Zed or someone else can CONFIRM this is how the CSV/Thermotime operate. (in theory...)

I explained to the guy who's shop it's in there are three ways I can do re-wiring. Fast, correct, and beautiful. Choose two. Reliable might be a fourth, or an aspect of "correctly." Soldered and heat-shrunk connections are going to take far longer to complete and last years longer than crimped connections, as well as being impervious to water. I discovered a new technique. I use safety wire (or twister ties) to bundle all my wires until I'm all done. I put off taping and looming until EVERYTHING is complete, tested, and the vehicle running. That way adding or subtracting a wire from a particular bundle doesn't mean repeatedly looming and unlooming. Another trick I do is to include a "spare" 14AWG wire in every major bundle, for the circuit that inevitably got forgotten. Big bundles sometimes get two.

I've frequently found cars that are running 10-30 degrees hot aren't holding pressure in the cooling system. A quick pressure test and a new radiator cap solves a LOT of "running warm" problems. Frequently it's a single loose hose clamp that drips under pressure.

By "grab" do you mean judder, shudder as you take off? There are LOTS of causes of judder. Unremoved oil on the flywheel, failure to machine the flywheel, loose engine or tranny mounts (very common), too little or too MUCH grease on the splines the throwout rides on. I've battled "judder" problems on a TR-6 and a Subaru wagon, even published an article about battling it. Sometimes swapping brands is the ONLY solution.

Really? REALLY? Applied as a non-stick coating to the surfaces of pots and pans set directly on an open flame on top of a stove by millions of consumers and you're worried about Teflon MELTING? I hope you're laughing at yourself about now!

I discovered that fact running a TR-6 Club in Phoenix back in the 1980's. As long as I was willing to do 90% of the legwork, setting up rallies and such, lots of TR-6 owners were willing to show up and have fun. If I were going to LAUNCH a club, I think I'd find six like-minded people, and say, "Ok, each of you has to agree to organize ONE EVENT" in the coming year. And we dissolve the club in one year unless you are willing to re-up, or find someone to take your spot.

Actually I was thinking back to my '64 GTO (389, Tri-Power) which had a clutch that was so heavy your leg would start shaking if you tried to hold it in down more than about 10 seconds.

Lack of power is often due to problems breathing. Restricted air intake or plugged exhaust. Put a vacuum gauge on it and see what's going on. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

Either a distributor or a blonde date you KNOW you're going to get lucky with.

Good advise, but in the big city if you don't drop the clutch the INSTANT the light turns green the weenies in automatics behind you start honking.

IMHO unless you're drag racing there's no benefit to anything more than a stock clutch. Unless you LIKE holding down a heavy pedal at stoplights.

She's a beauty --- but I WANT THAT DATSUN WINDBREAKER!!!!!

Yeah, that's really the Echelin part # off the box. But NAPA should be able to cross-ref for you.

teflon tape is impermeable to everything up to and including uranium hexafluoride, one of the most caustic substances known to mankind. Teflon's first major usage WAS, in fact, for seals on the pumps on the gaseous diffusion plant at Oak Ridge during enrichment of the Uranium for the first atomic boms. I'm pretty sure it'll stand up to gasoline.

My 1980 ZX was becoming increasingly hard to start. New injectors didn't fix the problem, which I had assumed was the fuel rail losing pressure after shutdown, which is often due to "drippy injectors." I finally got off my lazy butt and put a fuel pressure gauge on her. Good pressure, (36-39). After shutdown, fuel pressure would intermittently go to zero. Other times it would hold @ 32psi or so. Clearly a drainback problem. (As a side note, if I disconnected the pump, the engine would continue to run all the way down to 12-15psi before beginning to rumble and stumble. The fuel pressure regulator was indeed working. Disconnect it, block the vacuum line, and fuel pressure stayed rock-steady at 36 regardless of revving it. The most logical explanation is that the check valve in the fuel pump was intermittently being jammed by rust or other debris coming from a 30 year old tank. I didn't however, feel like popping for a replacment $130 pump, and/or dropping the tank and cleaning it out, expecially with good fuel pressure. So I bought a fuel check valve from NAPA. Part # ECH-AR269. By Echlin. Along with two 90-544 hose barb fittings. (1/4" barb for 5/16" fuel injection hose) and a pair of new 3/8" fuel injection clamps. Total was under $30. I spliced this BETWEEN my fuel filter and the fuel rail. This way any crud/debris will be caught by the filter BEFORE it has a chance to contaminate the new check valve. After letting it sit for 4-5 hours, it started instantly. I'll report on how it does tomorrow morning.

An angry woman tried doing that to me once. Fortunately, she was unsuccessful. Name was Lisa, Lena, Lorraine, something like that.

I suggest you start by putting a vacuum gauge on it, both when cold,and hot. Your symptoms might be explained by a simple vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket, etc. One that intermittently seals itself up. Vaccum readings could point you to this and other possible problems. Have you verified spark at #4, is it as bright and long a spark as, say, #1? If you have no experience using a $15 vacuum gauge, visit this website. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm When it's running rough I'd spray all around the intake manifold, brake booster lines, etc. with brake cleaner while listening for an increase in RPM.

Ring gear is only $30 (plus shipping) from Rock Auto. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209316,parttype,5360,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1983%2Bnissan

I use dry ice instead.

Who here has replaced a fuel pressure regulator, and what were the beneficial results, if any? How did you diagnose it as having failed? What symptoms led you to decide to replace it, if it wasn't by Tee-ing in a gauge?

Here's a pic: FP relay is the green one. I'm still battling a hard start situation on this vehicle. The other morning (cold out) the fuel pump didn't seem to kick in until I'd cranked over 60 seconds when suddenly I heard a click and that familiar humm. So I've wired in a failsafe switch to run the fuel pump, if the pump is beginning to fail, the switch will allow me to know that for sure. I suspected burned points in the relay but after cutting it open, they looked fine. (That's AFTER 40 minutes getting access to it...) At this point I'm suspecting either a leaking (new) injector, or the ball (check) valve in the fuel pump allowing fuel to leak back out of the rail. Boy am I frustrated after all the work I've done. The one-after-another problems on this Z car are getting close to the final straw on this camel's back. Christ I've replaced half the car!

Yes, access is greatly eased by removing the kick panel, glove box, and taking the two bolts out securing the connector block. Remember, the TOP of the glove box folds down enabling removal after you get the two pins out of their holes in the lower part. After that it's a fight to get it past the lock striker. It's diagrammed on page EF & EC 104 in the FSM, 1983 manual. On mine the FP relay was green, and newer, possibly having been replaced once before.

Is it behind the glove box?