Wade Nelson

I can't speak to your specific problem. What I can tell you is it's not JUST the lock cylinder that can wear out. Something in the housing can too. My key stuck in mine. I removed the collar from the car. A professional locksmith, one I've worked with, know and trust, ordered and installed a new cylinder for me, gave me three new keys, etc. Still bound up. So I went with a replacement (used) collar, cylinder, key from eBay, and new ignition switch. Oh, and lubricate with Tri-flow. Works 100X better than WD-40, etc. Do NOT use graphite, that will short out your ignition switch if it makes its way in.

Has anyone here actually installed one of these TWM big throat throttle bodies? What sort of performance gains did you observe? My general rule of thumb is you can't actually FEEL anything less than about a 10 horsepower gain... I have serious doubts, however, about a [claimed] 9% increase in rear wheel horsepower. That would require a 20-30 horsepower gain at the flywheel, and I simply don't a bolt on part bumping the Z's gross horsepower by 30%, unless you COMBINED it with headers, low-flow exhaust, and other bolt-ons. Here's the PR from the recent ad, which I ASSUME was cut & pasted from the Motorsport website... "This is a Motorsport Throttle Body for a fuel injected 280Z or 280ZX. It has a 60mm bore that is 10% larger than stock, allowing a 40% increase in air flow. Tests have shown increases in horsepower by as much as 9% at the rear wheels, and cuts in 0-60 times by .5 seconds. My belief is "If these claims were true every 280Z/ZX in America would have one of these throttle bodies...."

Datsun : Z-Series 280Z in Datsun | eBay Motors

ZOMBIE THREAD! Aim for the master cylinder!!!

If it's from RAYBESTOS I can almost guarantee you it's quality.

I'm always amused by the ads on Craigslist (and here) by people NOT QUITE READY to sell a vehicle. I stop to look at an old Chevy pickup alongside the road. It won't even crank even with a jump start. (The battery is so internally shorted out it can't even accept a jump start) Really? You guys think someone will happen by and buy it who can't even start it or drive it around the block? I convince them to put a battery in, and sure enough, it won't go into reverse. In go two quarts of ATF (at which point I see the puddle where it WAS parked...) I take it for a spin around the block just to honor their efforts, then tell them I think I "really want something with AC in it" I call one lady selling a Chevrolet truck. She asks me if I could bring along jumper cables, because ..... really? You want $2500 for your truck but won't go buy a $80 battery in it in order to sell it? Here's one in the Thrifty Nickle: FINISH MOWER 6' KING KUTTER 3-BLADE NEED A BELT $500.00 CALL 205... Yeah, like I'm going to buy your mower, go purchase a belt, install it, and THEN discover out the gearbox is all chewed up? Another ad for a Toro ride-on mower had verbage like "Doesn't run, needs a part installed, I have the part...." well doofus, if that's all it needs, why don't you install it? I get to the bottom of a Craiglist ad for ANOTHER truck and he confesses.... HE DOESNT HAVE A TITLE, BUT ASSURES ME SINCE IT's PRE-1973 I DONT NEED ONE.... Yeah, I wonder how THAT would fly down at the DMV...."But the seller TOLD me I don't need one!!" And today, here on the Zcar forum: "Interior is out(I have EVERYTHING, just needs to be put back in. Really? for $4500 you won't even lay the carpet in and bolt the seats down? How many buyers do these folks REALLY think they're gonna attract for a vehicle that won't crank, won't start, or needs a part, or lacks a driver's seat? So, post any ad here YOU'VE SEEN of a "NOT REALLY READY TO SELL IT ITEM"

A gallon (milk jug) of water combined with a rug or blanket of some sort you can soak and throw on a fire provides a very inexpensive backup to a pint-sized fire estinguisher. I carry water in all my vehicles... call me a Boy Scout....

Tell him you've got a guy who'll give him $50 for the shifter assembly and speedometer gear stuff off it. He pays shipping. Wade Nelson 68 Eagle's Nest / PO Box 1701 Arboles, CO 81121

Let's clarify. Is this a NO CRANK or a NO START problem. If it's a "NO CRANK" problem. pull the small wire off the starter solenoid. Run a jumper wire from B+ (battery positive terminal) to that lead. If the starter cranks, the problem is somewhere between that wire and the battery, through the ignition switch, etc.

Here's a picture of that first ebay valve. $14 + S&H Looks like a winner to me!

I'm gonna save everyone the trip: Here's the list One steel hood for 240Z/260Z in good condition - $75 One 240Z SU carb heat shield in very good condition - $40 One Set Superlite 14x6/5x5.5 aluminum wheels w/ caps never mounted - $250 for four Various 240Z/260Z/280Z center consoles - negotiable One 240Z/250Z/280Z steel cowl in very good condition - $75 Pair of 280Z replacement frame rails - $100 One NOS 240Z/260Z/280Z passengerside footrest by AMCO - $100 One NOS 240Z/260Z/280Z aluminum door kick panels by AMCO - $100 One 240Z splash guard in excellent condition - $250 One 240Z splash guard in restorable condition - $75 One 1970 240Z dash w/no gauges, one repairable 1.5" small crack at VIN tag - $250 Email or call/text 757-620-093four.

I think fusing it with a 1A or even .5A fuse is a great idea. I still need a black replacement door trim, rocker panel cover, and A-pillar cover if you know of any salvage 280ZX's.

So #1 is running lean and #4 is running rich. Sounds TO ME like it's time for a new set of injectors.

Updating this thread with correct part #'s. Here are the correct NAPA part #'s. This valve can (reportedly) be found at places besides NAPA, since NAPA online really sux... AFP CV8000 check valve 90-544 hose barb fittings. (1/4" barb for 5/16" fuel injection hose 3/8" fuel line clamps (2)

For pinching off fuel lines I saw (and copied) the perfect tool. Buy a couple pairs of SMALL needle-nosed Vise grips. Put clear fuel hose over the jaws. (regular rubber hose would work fine too...) Now you can pinch off a fuel line in seconds without damaging it and leave it pinched off as long as you need.

Having to "pump up" a clutch indicates there's air in the lines / slave / master that you are compressing. Once the air *bubble* is sufficiently compressed, then the clutch operates normally. You get air in the lines by having a leak, a loose fitting, and most often, a leaking seal in either the master or the slave. A leaking seal may or MAY NOT cause fluid to be lost, what it IS doing is allowing air to be admitted - on the return stroke. You can replace the slave, the master, get a "kit" and just replace the seals, or, lots of times, you can simply take them apart, clean them, and re-assemble. But frequently you take one apart and see visible damage to the seal, a nick past which fluid/air will leak. Start by re-tightening all you fittings and your bleeder valve. Sometimes that's all it takes. I'm working on the ASSUMPTION you have matched clutch parts / sleeve, etc. and your problem is only with the hydraulics.

Ok here's the correct part #s. Search on it at NAPA.com And you'll need two hose barbs as well, some teflon tape... AFP CV8000 check valve 90-544 hose barb fittings. (1/4" barb for 5/16" fuel injection hose 3/8" fuel line clamps (2) I remember buying a relay that day, obviously I got the boxes mixed up... Oh, btw, here's (apparently) a Idle Air Control valve from NAPA for "only" $83 Rock Auto wants $92... CRB 2797 ..... listed in the WRONG category! And one more thing. NAPA has a screw-in check valve for a Bosch pump... ATM 1587010532 but it's threaded on both ends, don't think this is right one for you...

In less than 30 minutes you can run to NAPA, buy the Echlin check valve I describe, cut your fuel line in half in the engine bay, splice it in, and crank down on two 3/8" fuel line clamps. Why even screw around with taking off the old pump, removing THAT check valve, attempting to match it, spilling fuel etc? What are you going to do when it strips, or leaks, not to mention working on your back with dirt getting in your eyes pulling that pump down! Do you have some strange masochistic need to make this repair waay more difficult than it needs to be?

Why don't you just put a voltmeter on the fuel pump itself and see what you're getting? In 45 seconds you can know if the problem is with the pump or somewhere forward of that. Maybe someone ELSE with an '83 model can unplug the TPS just to confirm it's not required for fuel flow...

I'm gonna remind everyone ONCE AGAIN.... KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY whenever you're playing with fuel lines, pumps, moving fuel around, ... A local garage was dropping a nearly-empty gas tank, had spilled a tiny amount on the floor from disconnecting the fuel lines when the tech's incandescent DROP LIGHT fell and ignited it....WHOOSH!!!! causing the tech to drop the entire tank pouring even more onto the floor and now had an inferno going.....three fire estinguishers later they managed to save the shop from burning down... So get yourself an LED drop light while you're at it...and maybe put a big wet blanket in a big pot of water you can use after your toy 'stinguisher is used up...

How little you know about Zombies! There are "newborn" Zombies and centuries-old Zombies! When I scanned the thread I got the impression the problem was fixed.... BUT... WAIT FOR IT..... "Suddenly the squishiness in the brake pedal has returned. IT'S A ZOMBIE PROBLEM!!!! IT KEEPS COMING BACK TRYING TO KILL THE OP.... (by way of no brakes!) Remember, "ALWAYS AIM FOR THE MASTER CYLINDER!!!!!"

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-280zx/47536-curing-hard-starting-add-fi-check-valve.html Be sure and read the whole thread. I had the NAPA and the Echlin part #'s konfoozed.

First I'd diagnose if it's an ignition or a fuel problem. Try starting it with some added faux fuel (starting fluid, ether, brake cleaner....) If the problem clears up then that cylinder probably isn't getting sufficient fuel. Start by changing the fuel filter, and next put a fuel pressure gauge on it to see what's going on. Check the connector to the injector. Next I'd pull the wire off the spark plug of the affected cylinder, stick a screwdriver in it, and let it arc to ground. See if you're missing spark on that cylinder in the first few moments after startup. If neither of those help you DIAGNOSE the problem, then I'd pull the spark plug and squirt some oil into the cylinder. Put the plug back in, and start it up. If it runs fine then you probably have shot rings in that cylinder and you don't have compression there until oil starts circulating and the cylinder walls get "wetted." Or you could stick a compression gauge in that cylinder and take readings after it's warmed up and running, and then let it sit till cold and repeat. In any case you should be able to diagnose this problem in 10 minutes or less, provided the engine is (currently) cold.

Another ZOMBIE thread come back to life.....might as well add my two cents worth. If it's air in the lines, and the pedal works AT ALL, you should be able to "pump up" the pedal until it gets stiff. If it's a leak in the lines or at a wheel cylinder no matter how many times you press the pedal it won't get stiff even with Viagra in the brake fluid. If a system is sealed, it almost doesn't matter WHAT method you use to bleed it, they'll all work provided you don't allow the reservoir to run out of fluid while you're doing it. If there's a loose line, leaking cylinder, etc. almost NO method will succeed.

There's one A LOT LIKE THIS ONE for sale down here in Huntsville Alabama. $3850. It appears to have been repainted but looks great. It sits over in the VI Grissom HS parking lot with a sign, and is on the Thrifty Nickle too for several months.