larsz

I am posting a question for a friend that has a 76 280Z & his car runs too rich after the engine warms up in 10 minutes. Could this be the temperature sending unit not operating or something with the ECU ? Any suggestions? Thanks.

I also have mine up front & also with a big gas filter next to it that seperates the water out too. It works great.

After trying to get a new unit from the dealer & all the local parts places & internet ; the heater control valve that operates with a vacuum diapram for the 74 to 78 with air conditioner is no longer available! Only MSA & VB have them in their cat. but backordered when I called . So I decided to look for an o-ring gasket to replace the old stock one that was leaking antifreeze all over the passenger side carpet. Found one at harware store for .30 cents but it still leaked a bit because it was the donut style & did not quite seal very well. I called around & found the right gasket just down the street from me at a diesel repair shop. Those guys gave it to me for free. It works great now & no leaks finally. What a relief & big savings of about $100 , no more smelly antifreeze, wet carpet, or rusting floor pans & best of all there is heat in the cabin & I can defog the windows at night so I could see out the windsheild! Hope this post will help other z car owners with the same problem. I got a lot of help from the all the old posts & wanted to pass this on. Thanks again everybody.

Well the o-ring was thicker than the stock one & when it was tightened down, it took more torque to get it flush. It may have split from the tightness. I might put the stock one back in with some silicon sealer again if I can't find a flat rubber like the stock one at a plumbers supply place. Thanks for the tips guys.

My vacuume thermostatic control unit is leaking antifreeze. I did take it out & replaced the o-ring gasket that seals the flared pipe coming from the firewall. Tried an o-ring from Osh hardware store the same size but it was not like the flat stock one. Put it back in & it still has a slight leak. Does anyone have any experience in repairing one of these units with a gasket or sealants? A new one is still available if it can't be repaired for around $80 but I want to know if this can be fixed first? Thanks for all replies in advance.

You might want to put airbags in it and there is a company in Arizona that makes them for the 240. It may soften the ride enough so you could drive the car more often & probably handle better too. I was thinking of going this route but it is also pricey , around $1,600 for all four . You could also just do the rears first for half the price then go to the fronts. Let us know if you decide to go this route with some feedback. Good luck with your back.

Would a 77 engine wiring harness work with a 75 ECU & all the components? Thankyou in advance.

Sounds like the bccd is stuck open or out of adjustment. Mine was disconnected & it was idling at 1400 rpm warm. You can try to adj. by loosening or tightening the screw or nut at the bottom of the diaphram or disable it by running the wire to the pos. + of the ballast resistor & see if the idle will come down. It worked for me.

The boots look good & I re-tightened all the clamps. I will re-check for air leaks after the afm. Thanks for the reply.

I just swapped over fuel injection from a 77 z & have a high idle around 1400 rpm warm & low idle when cold around 650 rpm. There is no cold start circuit hooked up (all disconnected & blocked off) & I adjusted the idle speed screw all the way down. Could it be the water temperature sending unit or some vacuume leaks? The throttle plate does not seem to be sticking open. Anyone out there with tips or suggestions?

I will try to post a couple of pictures on this unit but am having some difficulties loading them on. It looks like it has the cold air valve in the snorkle. Thanks for looking. If there is anyone interested ; you can pm me with your email & I can send the pics out.

Complete air cleaner from early 240 z with the round top carbs 70 - 72. Comes with all the mounting bolts & air filter. I went with F. I. so do not need it anymore. It is also needed for converting the late model flat top carbs in the 73 & 74 z cars to the early bell top (round top S U carbs) . Price is $25 + shipping Pictures available.

Just sold it Dan. Thanks. Larry

Brandon; I would be interested in trading. I sent you a PM . My car needs the r-200 parts to swap over from the r-180. Larry

Hi Tom; yes the head comes complete with the cam & tower, rockers , valves , springs, ect. It is okay to drive up here too as long as I still have it. I will try to post some pictures.

Complete , clean stock & untouched n-42 head. I was going to use it but have other plans . Need to sell it to make room & fund new turbo project. Priced for quick sale @ $65 + ship. & can ship immediately. Thanks. Pics available.

Get everything you can, wiring harness , gas tank, rear end, use all of the 280 stuff, ignition ect.

I am doing a swap over to FI into a 71 with the 77 engine harness & ecu Can the 77distributor be hard wired into the transistor ignition box ? How would the ECU be wired into the coil also? Thankyou.

Thanks for the reply Jon but they were sold with the adapters. Regards' larsz

Hi Stefan, no I still have them & was waiting for your response. Regards, Larry.

Hi Driftin Jon, I would consider seperating the adapters if not need them or the deal does not fall thru. The price would be $25 + shipping to your house. Thanks for the reply Regards, Larry.

Hi Stefan, It does not come with linkage but I will check if there is an extra one for it in my z parts bin. You can call me for more info anytime today up to 11pm Pacific time. My number is 805-928-0926 I will pm you also in case you do not see this post. Also will attach a couple of photos. Regards, Larry.

Hi Stefan, I still have those SU carbs in the box ready for shipment. Thanks for the reply. Regards, Larry.

Hi St. stephen, here are the rates to N.J. UPS ground $16.00 & get there in 4 days. FedEx ground $11.34 & get there in 5 days. Thanks.