Zachary Lawson

I would check into the ECU. My Z recently was doing something close to what your describing. I bought a used ECU for $50 dollars from eBay and it cured it.

So my 1978 280z is flooding at idle. I was wondering if the coil had anything to do with it. When I unplug it from the distributor and move the coil wire about an inch from the body. I get a orangeish spark while around 1k RPM's. Shouldn't the spark be blue?

Update: I was way off! I figured out by accident that my ECU is losing connection. The car is running great now. Thanks for all the input Zed Head.

The funny thing about it is that it run fine until I just adjusted the air screw all the way in. Then after that it just ran awful. That's pretty much all I did. You think maybe I locked the flap closed? No I didn't adjust the AFM spring or mess with the fuel pressure. I'll update you with some test tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

Yeah I was referring to AFM to the throttle body. When I remove the boot, I can try to close the gap with my hands to imitate the boot. It runs very close to how it should. I don't think the flap is stuck closed.

You think a clogged air filter would make it pretty much not run? Update: I just checked the air filter, It's fine. Thanks for the input though.

It's a 1978 280z, Stock everything. Update: So when I unhook the line from the air regulator It runs at about 6k or 7k rpm, but runs like it suppose too. I can give it gas and it will open up even more. Also If I take the air screw all the way out, it seems to improve it somewhat. It's acting like it's not getting any air. I can take the boot off the AFM and it runs at a very fast idle. I can put my hands around the AFM like how the boot should be. And the Engine runs like it's suppose too. If I unplug the cold start valve, should the motor change?

So my car was running pretty decent, just had a rough idle that I was working on. So I tried a few things like, screwing the air screw all the way in to find air leaks. Spraying the intake with brake cleaner (also in the air screw hole). After those troubleshooting processes,the car won't hardly even start now. It will only run at idle roughly. When you give it any sort of gas it dies. It seems to me like it overloading now. Sometimes it won't even start unless you unplug the fuel pump. Anyone have any ideas off the top of there head?

What is the nearest/best mechanic near Manchester, KY? (It's in south eastern KY)

It's a 1978 Z. I think everything is stock. I'll check the fuel pressure later this week.

I got my Z up and running. It idles rough. It sounds like its missing. When I increase the rpm's or give it gas. It runs perfectly fine. Anyone have some theories?

Thanks for all the input. I done an temp fix, going to work on the rest of the car.

Could you estimate how much that would cost?

1978 280z: My Z fuel pump was pumping air. It seems like the metal fuel line inside the tank is rusted maybe. I reversed the fuel line with the return line. The car starts and runs much better. Are they any negative effect to this? How could I repair the fuel line? Thanks

I just recently found a 1978 280z in Ohio. It's in fairly good shape, very light rust. The interior is almost perfect. It has 55k miles. Very lucky find. I got it for $800. I'll post some photos of it later.

Pretty rare cars. I had to go out of state to track one down.

Hello, I'll looking for a Mechanic in Eastern Kentucky, or surrounding areas to help me diagnose my Z. Or experienced mechanic to talk to on the phone.

Hello, I'll looking for a Mechanic in Eastern Kentucky, or surrounding areas to help me diagnose my Z. Or experienced mechanic to talk to on the phone.