suleymantezgul

Thanks for allyour information and photoes.I am going to the shop and check again for the piping.But Flow Guide Valve is not there (the bolt is still there under the resistor) that I know. Any suggestions what I should do without Flow guide valve ?.At the moment I am not sure either that the steel pipe is still existing. Also,where this steel pipe starts on the tank side.Does it run with the two fuel lines to the engine bay ?.What is the size of the pipe ?.

My 240Z is a 2/71 ..I am trying to put the fuel tank and vapor tank together. There is a evoparation hose for ventilation of the expansion tank,and as seen in schematics of later models that connects to carbon canister all the way to he engine bay. There is no carbon canister and a third line going the engine bay in my car. As far as gathered from the information I found,There should be a hard line going through the fender for ventilation. I need information where this hard line is located and exits through the fender. Thanks for your help

I couldn't find this vapor line (Evaporation Line) in my 2/71 240z.Would give a little more info ?.. What I am interested is the location of exit from the vapor line coming out of the expansion tank.Thanks

Thanks for the info.Do you have an idea about the performance of this kit ?.It will cost me a great deal and would like to get my moneys worth...

I want to buy an ac kit from courtesy for my 1971 240Z.But I do not want to spoil the original interior set up.Where in the car does the internal blower (evaporator) installed ?. Courtesy did not informed me about it.Could anyone help me on this issue?.

I was having the same problem and desire for a comfortable ride.I adjusted the pressure of my tires to a pressure (Trial and error) that gives the best ride and performance.Now I no longer feel the jolts and bumps and make 110 mph also without any handling problem..

Sorry about Chole,I read it all.Seem it is a long endless story.....hope will have a happy ending...

I made 105 mph several times,however,that was for testing only and I try not to drive above 90.The funny thing is other drivers looking with a look of expectation of higher performance from such a car since there is no other 240Z that I know around here. It looks like my mileage is 12 mpg,which is very low.I know that my carbs are running rich but I have to work on them more for better tuning. Let me know about if you decide to visit . Thanks

I am wondering what maximum mileage/lt and speed I may have with my 71 240z with 5-Speed (82-83) transmission ?.

I first need a schematic of 82-83 5-Speed gear box.So that I may identify the parts I need.Midwest(Chole) was a great help to me but she is not there anymore.Does anyone know what happened to her?.

Sonofzzzap don't speak spanish amigo....OK.However,my Z is a red one also like yours...

Thanks for your concern.Need other sources than drivetrain.The problem wiih me is I cannot import used parts.

About two years ago,I saw a car that I wanted to have but did not have the funds 34 years ago when I was a student in Arizona. By chance ,about two years ago ,I came accross with my 71 240Z,and bought it. I call it my mistress and to my best of knowledge I own the only one in Turkey. When I bought the car it was in pretty good shape mechanically.But she had fiberglass bumpers ,all emblems removed,heater and center console trimmings ,rear fenders modified. I decided to go for full restoration. The car was dismantled completely,sand blasted ,repaired ,painted and put together again.She is 98 % stock now and will be 99.5% stock soon. Now I am driving my mistress with ecstasy and joy,keeping away from more lethal hobies and most important keeping my wife happy andwas secure. Today I hit 110 mph,and my mistress was stable and secure. This is my hobby and really enjoy working o n it.

Well guys I got them made,just looking at the photos since I didn't have originals and have not seen a 240Z since 1969.When I get the originals,the same to the mm may be made either from carbon steel or stainless steel.Even the bump guards etc.,.

Does anyone knows where I can get new gears ,etc., for my transmission???

I finally solved #3 and 4 cylinder spark plug fouling problem !!!!. By using a gasoline additive that cleans the engine and the valves the problem is solved. If you have a car that has not been used for a long time,2-5 years like mine,you might have the same problem.. Thanks to everyone that advised me what to do....

Yes,many thanks to Enrique for this very helpful explanation.

Mike, Thank you for your info. about heater controls.My heater is working properly thanks to you.

It is a point distributor. Thanks

Tom, Thank you will try that. Thanks a lot. Gavin, I have new distributer cap,rotator,plugs etc..Will get the valve adjustment first and see what happens.By the my 71 Z is the same color of yours. Thanks a lot.

Thank you all.I'm refering to the rod that connects to the butterfly.I think honing and bushings will do the job.But where do you suggest that the bushing should be installed,on the rod or in the carb body??. Gavin, the spark plugs are black,indicating rich mixture or pure detonation and they are not oily.They are fed from two different carbs so the adjustment of the carbs is not causing this fouling.

Thanks Carl.I'll get in touch with ZTHERAPY and see what I can do about the carb.Also thanks for pointing out the correct term for spark plug fouling. Do you have any idea about the problem in 3&4 cylinders ?.Definitely it is not due to carb,since the others are OK. Thanks again

Micheal what do you mean exactly?. The spark plugs look that they have rich mixture.

Has 8 on all but 7 on 3 & 4 .The car has not been used for at least 3 years. Any sugestions,thanks for your attention.

After restoration of my 71 Z ,I had a lot of problems with my SU's.Thanks to the help and parts I got from ZTHERAPY,most of my problems are solved.Still I have two problems as follows: 1-Idle speed should be at 750-800.When it is adjusted to this optimum speed,it sometimes was going down lower and the engine was stalling.Then I found out that touching the linkage between the two carbs was changing the idle speed.After that I discovered that the bushings are worn and air is sucked in in uneven ratios hence changing the mixture.What can I do to eliminate this worn bushing problem ???.I adjusted the idle that it runs between 800-1000 so that its lowest value is 800 in order to avoid stalling. 2-Two of my spark plugs ,mainly 3 and 4 are getting fouled due to rich mixture or poor detonation.The compression measurement showed that these two have lower ratios.My mechanic suggested that this may be due to valves. Any ideas or suggestions ??? Your comments will be appreciated since my Z is the only one in Turkey that I know of.