nahurry

thank you!! i will look into this solution this week. i think i will go with the turbo alternator.

i seem to be having a problem with alternators for the last few years. it doesn't matter if it's a new alternator or a reman. the current alternator is new, and i've had it about a year and it's dead. the voltage reg is not very old and the wiring has been redone a few years back, and the belt is good and not slipping. any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. also, what is involved with converting to a zx alternator with the internal voltage regulator? by the way i have a 73 240z.

my VIN # is HLS30-151414 and the build date is 3/73. my decal pic is on my previous post.

1973 here, i'm in for one. just replaced my power booster. peeled the old sticker off and have it for reference.

thanks ed, these pics will come in handy, especially pic. #1. i'll let you know when i get back on it. thanks again- matt

thanks ed, that would work great for me. the wiring diagram from sblake will help also. there aren't too many 240's around where i live or i would have this thing fixed by now. -matthew

bambikiller is right. i am looking for the one that has the relay on it. i need to know which connections go where. i started on this a few months back, but didn't get anywhere. i haven't been able to find a good diagram on this area. my zcar microfiche doesn't give a good view of it. i stripped the inside of my car to do a floorpan restoration. i also took the dash loose to fix the firewall.

the harness i'm looking for is under the right side passenger dash.

does anyone have a wiring diagram for a fuel pump wiring harness for a 1973 240z or a good picture of their fuel pump wiring. i seem to have forgotten what wires go where on mine after i restored my interior. (need clear pics) I WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

my 1973 240z has two electrical connections on one end of the wire harness and a black wire on the other that a bolt or screw would go through to ground it. when i ground this wire to the car, it stays hot all the time, and runs my battery down. what should i ground it to that that won't make it hot when the ignition is off?

when i turn the key on, the parking lights come on and so does the dash lights. the connections are factory. i put all my relays back in my car after floorpan restoration and now i can't figure out why the fuel pump relay is hot all the time.

the relay for the electric fuel pump on my 73 240z stays hot all the time, even when the car isn't running. what is the problem?

i need close up pics of the area in the passenger footwell that contain the relays. (with factory a/c preferrered).

does anyone have pictures of the passenger side footwell of a 1973 240z? i need to see the relay bracket area. i have mine disassembled and can't remember where 2 relays go.

a couple of relays from my 73 240z that need a home. (don't remember where they go)

another pic

i have new floorpans i bought from msa, that are 1st quality. my problem is finding someone in my area to do the cutting and welding. seems like i will need some patching done to to passenger firewall area just above where the old floorpan stops and the firewall starts, just to have some good metal to weld the new floorpans to. i visited my only complete restoration shop in town here in greenville, sc and they looked at my car and gave me an estimate of $2400.00 to replace the floorpans and fabricate two sections of the frame where the tension rods connect. i won't pay that kind of money, so i am still trying to find someone to do the work. all the local body shops i have visited have told me they only handle insurance wrecks, and i have been to about 15 shops. what's the use in owning a car like this that no one will work on?

now that my z is running fine again i am listening to alice in chains, van halen and some local heros- hootie and the blowfish.

i went with the original alternator, i bought a new alternator from my local import shop and it is working perfectly. no more buying remanufactured parts for me.

i think i found my problem. the ignition switch has some damage to the contacts and the blue wire leading from the switch to the fuseblock is partially melted! i'm ordering the electrical part on the back of the switch and maybe a new ignition switch as well. i will also repair the blue wire and seperate it from the others and see if that solves my problem.

i don't have a capacitor. i removed the points several years ago in favor of electronic ignition. i'll have to check the ignition box when weather here clears up.

don't know what the capacitor is, what if i replaced the entire distributor?, it is the original one, or go with a 280z distributor? i just want the car fixed so i can drive it with no worries about it cutting off in traffic.