texasz

I know right! I was dumfounded after checking my wrenches multiple times. I may check an adjustable wrench, not sure it will fit though...we'll see.

I'm currently working on removing the driveshaft from a 1970 240Z and the nuts are an odd size. They are between a 12 and 13mm though a 1/2 is slightly too large and a 7/16 is too small. 😞 I'm not so sure that these are original, I know that they have been off before because the car has a 5-speed in it. I've hit them with PB Blaster a few hours ago and will see how that goes.

Nice sounding Z...and I heard you get a 3rd gear scratch out of it. 🙂

I have a few more thoughts and questions. We have been discussing the tranny/diff in a vacuum when there may be other factors that impact how the Z performs. What about... A high HP engine (stock is 150-170 depending)? A high torque engine such as a stroker? A lighter flywheel? What effect would each of these have on the tranny/diff discussion we have been having?

If I recall correctly from what I've read on that subject when boring the engine out for a 3.2L you can sometimes get into the water passages (the blocks are not 100% identical and have some minor variations in casting) which is why people may have to look at several blocks until they find one that will tolerate that size bore. If you bore it and get into the water passage then sleeve it you no longer have the bore size you need, unless you bore over even more which gets into the water passage even further, then when you do install the sleeve you are making the water passage smaller which is likely to cause heat issues.

That is perfect and just the kind of information I needed, thank you!! Now with all this new information I've updated the spreadsheet I made (below). Clearly the wide ratio tranny with the 3.364 diff is not desirable. And the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.9 may be a bit much. The sweet spot for 'stock' like acceleration looks to be the wide ratio tranny with the 3.9 diff, that combination would result in the speeds shown in the second chart below...and that would seem to indicate an estimated 84MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th. Based upon info others have shared and the calculations the next best may be the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.364 diff. This results in less responsive acceleration than the previously mentioned combination and an estimated 85MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th (chart below). So barely any difference at highway speed so probably not a good choice given the loss in acceleration responsiveness. Just to continue on this line for those who want that supper snappy response off the line the close/narrow ratio tranny with the 3.9 diff looks great though you will be greatly sacrificing top-end since it looks like you would have an estimated 73MPH @ 3500RPM in 5th...that is a loss of over 10MPH on the highway (chart below).

Is there a magical combination that would give peppy performance in ALL gears? Probably not though thought it was worth asking.

Yep, I've read Bryan's entire site many times over the years. Great stuff!!

@Zed Head, so these are the over all drive ratio in first gear with those diff ratios and those trannys. I get that though what does it mean in the real world (not in terms of revolutions and all, that part I understand)?

$12k for that in Hawaii is a deal...for them to ship a Z from the mainland is not cheap. And that 240Z does not look that bad from the pictures provided (I'm sure it's worse that it looks, they usually are).

That engine bay just looks blaa, plain, boring, nothing pops. That shaved valve cover only adds to this feeling.

I need some help here. I've put together a lot of information (below) on possible transmission/diff combinations I may put in my Z and need a little guidance as to what this all means. Here's what I think this is telling me...the wide ratio (77-79) is going to give me more off the line acceleration in 1st and 2nd with a long wait to $^!# to 3rd and poorer highway top end speed than the narrow ratio (81-83) tranny. That being said, the it gets messy when you start to look at different diffs in the mix. These are the sites I have used as references for all this research. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html https://tiresize.com/calculator/ http://www.vmar.com/java/gear.html http://www.zcsd.org/tech-articles/differential-ratios.php The numbers in orange are the MPH difference from one gear to the next. In my mind I'm thinking this is good to look at since it will help illustrate "time" spent in each gear, the size of the jump from one gear to the next which would relate to time in the 'power band'. Maybe I'm completely out of my mind, you tell me. 😉 So of course the big question...what do I install???

Or just get a brick. lol

They should be 4-screw. I have a 1/71 as well and it too has the 4-screw set on it as others have also confirmed.

One of the issues with those old sun roofs is their tendency to leak. Beyond that I think it is really a matter of preference and many do not like them on these cars, myself included. That being said, both my 4Runners have factory sun roofs on them and I love those. As for eliminating it, I've seen people do both a complete roof skin replacement as well as welding in a patch. The complete roof skin is probably a better solution and they pop-up for sale some what frequently, just keep an eye out for someone parting a car out that has a solid and straight roof (and make sure you get one from a 2-seater as that appears to be what you car is, I believe the 2+2 roof is slightly different and will not work on a 2-seater). The other thing to consider is you will also have to replace the headliner as there is a large hole in it right now. 😉

Wow the price on this one jumped in the last two hours...from $19k to $40k...for a '73 no less.

I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉

Oh crap, I missed that...I Googled Houston Z Car Club and that was the first result and did not think to dig deeper. Please forgive my error.

You may also want to check out the Houston Z Club, https://www.zcluboftexas.org/ They have a Sponsors page on their site that may be of help as well as the Links page, if all that fails maybe see if there's a way to ask that group as I'm sure someone in there can give shop names. If you want to bring it to Austin then go to Austin Z Clinic https://austinzclinic.com/ and Kevin will take care of you.

I was thinking the same thing on #2, AC tensioner pulley.

Nope, I would think that it would be too bright and make it difficult to see.

Hmmm...I'm not sure. These are OEM though, in the first picture you can just see the corner of the Nissan logo on the sticker (red arrow) and the second picture I just took of one of the ones I received from them a couple months ago.

$67 here: https://zcardepot.com/products/engine-motor-mount-oem-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=5&_sid=d972a746c&_ss=r

Also if using a computer just right click on the link on the left and select 'open in new tab' then you can copy the URL from that new tab which will be a link to the specific page. Thank you Carl for creating and continuing to maintain this site for SOOOOO many years, I know I have used it since around 2003 or so. There's a TON of great content on it. I will agree about the technology being dated, use of frames on websites was a big thing for a while. For a site that is free, no donations requested, and completely run by one person it still does the trick. I can see why work has not been put into the technology as that is time consuming and a never ending story as technology is constantly changing. As long as frames continue to be supported by modern browsers I think it's fine the way it is. There are other Z sites built on old technology though still contain a wealth of valuable information...Z Therapy (https://www.ztherapy.com/), Datsun 3.1 Stroker (https://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/), and Bryan Little's Z Garage if you can still find it...just to name a few I can think of off the top of my head. Oh wait! I just found Bryan's newest iteration (at least the 3rd URL I've found for it, the oldest being geocities) of his site and it is much more modern than the old one (https://datsunzgarage.us/).

Bump... Looking for input on the above mentioned NISMO electronic fuel pump please.