texasz

@EuroDat, I have not picked up the slave yet as I will be replacing the engine/transmission after the brake work is complete and I'll work on the clutch slave at that time. I will likely use the later slave, I'll be running a later model 5-speed (either from a 280Z or 280ZX, I have not decided which one yet).

I certainly took great care in the rod measurement/adjustment. I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QGXY55/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 On the booster it came with a new pin for attaching to the brake pedal.

No! I wish I had know (remembered) about that before placing orders...I've ordered a few things from them over the past few months (this item, header, fuel pump for example). 😞

I've heard good things from many people over the years about them...I hope my experience is better than yours was. We shall have to wait and see.

I am also putting Speed Bleeders everywhere! On the front calipers, rear wheel cylinders, brake master cylinder, and so on.

Oh yes, and here's the clutch master cylinder I decided upon and am just waiting on it to arrive. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2091

Here's where I landed on the brake stuff...I got the Wilwood 1" master and an 8.5" booster with a conversion mounting kit to prevent modifying the firewall. Here's a link to the booster for anyone interested: https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-8-5-inch-brake-booster-upgrade-kit-for-1969-1972?variant=2376693317641 I'm keeping all the original parts in case I want to revert back to stock at some point so thank you for the tip on who can rebuild the booster. Here's a picture of the brake items ready to be installed after I address the clutch master cylinder.

That is really interesting, great idea!

As I prepare to replace my clutch master cylinder I thought of a question. What fluid should we be using for the clutch system in our Z cars? Just regular old brake fluid? I've got a couple bottles of Red Line RL-600 full synthetic brake fluid DOT4 that I'm going to put in the brake system...is that good for the clutch system also?

This is good reference though a good point was just brought up. If these are the same as what they were in the '70s they may not be good for today's fuels with higher ethanol content. This may be worth researching.

@motorman7 and @Yarb, that is kinda what I was thinking...especially since it looks be be much easier than the brake work I'm already doing. 🙂

I have just read that when replacing the clutch master it is recommended to also replace the clutch slave. I see two different clutch slaves available. I am guessing you match up the slave to the year tranny you have rather than the chassis right?

I have been in the process of doing a lot of brake work and was working on replacing the brake booster and master cylinder today. Once the old units were out of the car I was able to get a good look at the clutch master and I'm concerned. First off, the reservoir is bone dry, then it looks a little rough around the master cylinder and lastly it looks like it may have been leaking on the inside of the car. It is really hard to tell since the brake master cylinder seems to have been leaking based upon the condition of the under side of the booster and the inside of the firewall. Pix of everything below. What do you guys think?

Slide the seat all the way forward, recline the set forward as well...this will give you your best access. It is challenging no doubt. Slide your fingers under and feel around to get the nut started, you will be doing this blind as there's no way to be able to see what you are doing under there unfortunately. Once you get it finger tight use a combination wrench to tightening it down. This is about the best description I can think of right now. Hope this helps.

Yep, looks like it from your picture. Check out KlassicFab Vintage JDM, I've been hearing very good things about their parts. If you do not see what you want on their website just contact them since their website is not current with all their parts (they are constantly rolling out new items).

I'll have to defer to someone like @26th-Z with experience, my knowledge in this area is based upon what I have learned/read not what I've done.

In short yes, brace/support/align! Like 26th-Z said, and he's got some experience with metal work on these cars. 😉

I was just going to ask what that area looked like when you took the car apart. In my experience I've not seen that area damaged either so I'm not sure there is a need to re-engineer it.

For what it's worth I have HLS30-08215, build date 8/70 and it has an E31 block and an E31 head with the 4-screw carbs and the flapper style air cleaner (if anyone reading cases about that info). I also have HLS30-06293, build date 6/70 and it too has an E31 block and curiously enough it has an E88 head with the 4-screw carbs and the non-flap air cleaner. I'd have to look at what HLS30-018482, build date 1/71, has since I have no pix of that engine and it's stored elsewhere. As you can see just from what I personally have there's a bit of a mixed bag on the '70s.

😞 I've been seeing more and more sent overseas lately. There was one from right here in my backyard that was in an accident and ended up in Europe by way of the insurance auction. The good news is that it is being repaired!

So I did a little more digging based upon Carl's info (it made me curious), here's what I found: Florida auction: http://classiccardb.com/datsun/516190-datsun-240z-1970-1972-project-cars-with-lots-of-extra-parts.html A 2015 legal notice of lien in a Lee County publication: https://legals.businessobserverfl.com/legal-notice-uploads/2015-03-06-Lee.pdf The Florida auction site lists a phone number, it may be worth a phone call to see if you can chase it down.

@DatsunZGuy, I saw that same ad for the headlights and just laughed. I suppose for those looking for a pure stock car or chasing that six figure auction price it is worth it, for the rest of us I think it's a waste of money.

Unfortunately there's not going to be a clear cut-over date/month. If you browse through the registries you will see that build dates, VIN, and engine serial numbers do not all align sequentially. That's the bad news. The good news is that someone will be able to help with a rough transition timeframe (I do not have that information).

How many miles have you put on since replacing? Have you gone back and double checked everything is installed and adjusted properly?

Apex has been good, they do want me to tell them the length though.