texasz

I'm planning on running a '77 5-speed (early?) and an R180 3.9. The engine will be a 3.1L stroker with about 10:1 compression. The car will be for autox and some street driving (just for fun on nice days not a daily driver). Opinions?

While you're at it put on some Speed Bleaders, several people here have done so and like them. I'm putting them on when I do my brake system, in fact I've already got them sitting on the parts shelf in the garage. On the front you may also consider doing the 4Runner 4-piston caliper upgrade. This is another change I'm going to be making. Lastly, on the master cylinder consider going from the stock 7/8" model to the 15/16" model from a later Z car. The last two will make a noticable difference in your braking distance from what I've read. The above are items I'm changing on my brake system as a result of much research. I'm also doing drilled and slotted front rotors.

I could use a little more detail on "de-peening" the nut please. I have 3-4 sets I need to remove and started them soaking in PB Blaster yesterday afternoon and was going to go at them with the impact wrench today...that is until I read this post. I'm in Cedar Park if it's something easier shown than communicated in text...plus we can talk Z cars and maybe I have some parts you want/need. Seriously though, just looking for more information on this before I damage something.

That's perfect Mike!! That was the thread I was looking for...and it was katz who chimed in on that discussion though I forgot that Alan had provided valuable input as well. Wowzers, I didn't realize that thread was from 2002!!!

I know I've seen at least one thread talking about the switches where are in the series I cars at the back of the choke plate. I think it was katz who shared info on this though I'm not positive. Can anyone point me to these threads? I've searched and could not find what I was looking for so I'm hoping someone has the threads bookmarked.

Well that's over...kinda. I ended up cutting the heads off the two bolts yesterday and working the head off...that was not easy and involved more cutting. The head seemed to slide pretty easily on one head bolt and not the other. After TONS of pounding with a 3lb hammer and a couple 2x4s (we destroyed the first one) and pulling up on the head at the same time we only managed to move the head up about 1" and decided a different course of action was in order. Time to cut the stuborn head bolt between the head and block, though it was not accessible with my cutoff wheel so I had to use a sawsall...this made me very nervous as I didn't want to damage anything. Those head bolts are VERY tough, I burned through 2 and 1/2 metal blades cutting this one bolt. WOWZERS!!! So now the head is off after a little more persuasion. Next is getting the rest of that one stuborn head bolt out of the hole in the head. I figure putting the head on wood blocks and using another head bolt and the 3lb hammer I should be able to pound it out easily right? NO! I only managed to move it about another 1" before stopping for the night. I filled the hole the bolt was in with PB Blaster and called it a night. Wise move! This morning I wicked out the hole of the PB Blaster with a papertowel and took the same approach with a head bolt and the 3lb hammer. about 6-10 blows later and it's out!! After inspecting the bolt I just removed it was obvious why it was so stuck. Here's a link to pix: http://www.pape.ws/gallery/v/Our_Life_Together/Our+Hobbies/Allan_s+Hobbies/240Z+Car/My+First+240Z/Totally+Rusted+Head+Bolts/?g2_fromNavId=x821ef459 Check out all that deposit on shown in the second pic. I'm leaving the two bolt remains in the block for the machine shop to deal with.

If the price it right and the engine is truely a '73 I'd be interested in the rods (the 9mm version).

Thank you, I passed on the information to the guy who asked me. He said to thank you also.

Anyone know of good race compound pads for the rear discs on a 280ZX? Someone just asked me and I have no idea so I'm turning the to the most knowledgable group of Z peeps I know (errr...virtually know I guess...ya know virtual world, cyber space, etc...ok enough with the failed attempt at humor).

Arnie, where you at in TX...it's a big state? I've gotta know where you found those two cars side by side orphened like they were! I have one that I'm working on myself, just a little bit earlier than your 10/70 build (see sig below). Hey, and my car is 2 months older than me!! Feel free to hit me on PM or email as well if you like.

I'm glad I searched for this topic and came across this thread again. I'm tearing down another engine this one with two stuck bolts on th intake/exhaust side of the head. This thread have provided me some additional ideas to go attempt...and also explains why my shots of PB Blaster have not helped any (I suspected as much though didn't want to leave any stone unturned). I also used a plumber's torch on the block where the bolts screw in as well as on the bolt heads with no luck. Maybe I should pull out my oxy acetylene torch for this...I'm just afraid of warping/melting something (the head is only aluminum after all).

Ok, I'm searching for a source for my last major component for my engine rebuild and need to know where I can get a good set of 6 KA24E pistons from at a good price. Per Zhome.com the part number on this is 12101-40F10.

Yes, a member here moved the data to that spreadsheet a while back. I'd like to know who is maintaining it as I have two to add to it.

I did realize that they were universal and would require some bracket work to fit. I have 1 (maybe two) parts cars that I could take seat brackets from and use those as a starting point to build something from. In any case, I had not realized the others selling similar seats for about the same total cost as I was expecting to pay for these inclding shipping. Thank you sooo much for the heads up. This now allows me to put that money towards my engine instead.

That's who it is and I do know he's got a bad reputation around here. I'm certainly not looking at one of his engines...I'm scared to go there! What I am looking at is this set of racing seats. Hard to beat for the price though he will not ship them...hence my request for assistance. Any thoughts or input is certainly appreciated.

Are any of you located in/near Rancho Cucamonga, California? If you are please PM/email me. There's a Z part I'm interested in and the seller will not ship...

Email me a pic of your tensioner and I'll compare it to a few that I have to see if I have a replacement for you. That is if you would like to explore that option.

Hey!! I just found this place myself a few weeks ago on my my OKC trip to pick up my most recent addition to my Z car family. They are right next to a drag strip also. Browse their site...they've got some REALLY cool old cars on their lot!! Too bad they were closed when I was by there...they are only open M-F I believe.

Bummer!! I do what I can (appealing to a fellow Texan). It gets hot here in Austin too...68 days this year over 100* if I recall correctly...brain got a little fried along with all the grass, plants, trees, etc. and no water in the lake to ski either. I really like the looks of what you did plus it's tested in the heat. I don't have the materials etc to do one like that and figured if I could have one made and kick you a few bucks all would be good...I'd have a heat shield and you'd have beer/Z car parts money.

Any chance you'd like to make another one for a fellow Texan?

Ok, so silly question...what is FAST and should I have it? What will it do for me?

Anyone got a pic of a "Fast Idle Actuator (for the aircon)" for a 260Z? I'm trying to figure out what/where this part is and not having much luck.

Very interesting tid bits...ya learn something new every day!! Thanx for the info.

Ok, after about 2.5 hours spent digging out one of my spares, cleaning it up, cleaning up all the broken glass, and installing the new one all is right with the world again. Well, at least my Z no longer has a broken window.

Agreed! Keep an eye out for cars in TX, NM, AZ, and CA. Though make sure you educate yourself first, just because that is where the car is now does not mean that's where it has been for the last 35+ years.