texasz

No, this is a 1970 240Z with an L28 in it now. I removed the tube without the nipple to install one with the nipple. As shown in the video, the replacement tube with the nipple seems to be too small to snugly fit in the block. I'm open to getting another one and seeing if it will fit better. Just looking for a solution.

I think what the different is has to do with carbs vs EFI. I removed the tube without the nipple and need to get the one with the nipple to fit securely as I am running carbs on this engine.

No it is not the same that came out of it. This is the tube from an L24 and the engine is an L28.

I did attempt this with a 3 lb hammer and no luck.

Ok, so I know that this is supposed to be a press fitting yet it is not working out that way. The pipe is too small to fit snugly into the hole (see here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2HYFBuU5VDL6rRxS9). Does anyone have any ideas? The only think I came up with was a pipe expansion tool to make the tube a little larger to fit snugly...problem is I do not have such a tool.

What's an "Ami"? Joking of course, I get it. 😉

Now I have to find the 3 alternator bolts for an S30 somewhere, the 3 that thread into the alternator itself. I thought I had bought a set, alas it was the ones to attach the mounting brackets only. Does anyone have these 3 bolts and willing to part with them?

It It went really well, easier than expected. I've pulled 4 or so engines over the years, never put one in so this was the first. All said it was under 3 hours to get it in and all fasteners cinched down. We spend the rest of the day working on some of the smaller things like the front bumper, fan, drive shaft, etc. Here are a few pictures. Now I have to find the 3 alternator bolts somewhere, the 3 that thread into the alternator itself. I thought I had bought a set, alas it was the ones to attach the mounting brackets only.

That is PERFECT, thank you!!!

For the bolts that mount the brackets on the sides of the engine to the motor mounts, do the bolts go in from the top or the bottom? A picture or two would be wonderful please. My son and I are planning on putting the engine and tranny back in the car tomorrow (Sunday) morning.

Laying it out in the sun was going to be my suggestion also.

Do you happen to have a video showing you doing the fog testing?

I thought that I had seen some paintable silicone in the past, might be worth looking into for anyone interested in that.

Passenger side is backwards on mine also.

If anyone ends up buying this one to scrap for parts please let me know! I'd rather see someone fix it though.

I just looked and have the same issue (haven't visited my profile in a while so was unaware). Based upon the message it looks to be an easy fix for someone with admin rights to the site. It's not like Mike to let things go so I suspect he may be on vacation.

The year and models listed to the left of each picture...would this align to the transmission being used I presume? For example if you have an L24 engine with 5-speed from a '77 280Z you will want the collar that is listed above for the '77 280Z correct?

This has been my exact experience with them...more than once.

That "next" person to have to deal with it could be you, whether it is the car you have today or another one down the road. It's always nice to think of the future when doing things.

Looking for one of these, please let me know if you have one. The site I found this one at is currently out of stock.

duplicate post

GREAT CATCH!! I would believe the FSM and the picture you show here is exactly what I was asking (which direction is the flow of each hose). Thank you for the update on this topic.

In my experience the alternator tends to be a whining sound that matches the RPM of the engine (i.e. the more you rev the engine the higher or faster the whine sounds). This is caused by a ground loop and you have to find a better ground or buy a noise filter. A crackling/static sound could be several things... Check speaker connections, if it's all speakers I'm not sure that this would be the issue. If you have a manual volume knob the internals could be dirty, though this would normally only cause the static sound when adjusting the volume Is this only when listening to the radio or any source? If only radio I'd suspect something with the antenna or it's connection. If it is only when listening to a CD then I'd suspect something with the read head. It could be something with the head unit so it may be worth further troubleshooting on that as well. These are a few things that come to mind immediately.

I too thought it was on the expensive side though figured I was paying for the effort someone else put into forming the bends that I would now not have to deal with. In the end I decided it was worth it for me at that time. Agree about the Continental labeling on the hoses, that was a disappointment as it was nowhere in the pix nor the description. As far as the clamps, I simply reused my old ones everywhere I could, I think I ended up using 2-3 of the new ones and they are in locations where nobody will see them fortunately.

FWIW I ordered one of these kits from this seller in 2021 (they were cheaper then, like everything else). So far I've installed the rear hoses, had the tank reconditioned, replaced the filler neck, the filler flap, tank strap isolators, new sending unit with new o-ring and lock ring, new electronic fuel pump, and probably a few other odds and ends in that space. I'll be installing the engine bay portion of this kit when I put the engine/tranny back in the car (hopefully this year). https://www.ebay.com/itm/304629344865?hash=item46ed52ea61:g:OasAAOSwl85hQSig&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Djh0wu66%2B0K8CRP7zNqsCuSo6SZkzi655mh8qwSKOQoIONK8PjgpmqBF%2FpTwtSb2cUwJ9CZ9CjcrOGifB0iR%2FrIj2yH67YFvIodFw%2BQ55EqJHeXJzlHNxKrmMG58xvrn6wCidWBg7SMTyGpKjT6ljXnl4MJdo5w2PwbtswFVHxBNvXLz7JW74Rp26sLzDZBNeg0G5ZblmEdYgcMWbqpM5SM2POxuG%2BvfFNRaqj0rMdbJ4XWVMuwTvYDjX55qfUKehz0yo%2BV%2FJYg3TUj%2FY36bTxwKEcgKolrNmXLZZbkA65h|tkp%3ABk9SR6anubvQYQ