texasz

There was a suggested conversion to the Webber DGV carbs a bit earlier in this thread. This is not as bad as the 4bbl but still not as good as staying with a side-draft carb (i.e. the SUs or some tripple setup). These engines work best with side-draft carbs due to the location of the intake. As it was stated previously about the 4bbl, the air/fuel mixture travels down through the carb then must make a 90* turn to then travel into the head. This turn impeads the flow and results in a reduction in performance. In all honesty, buy the video for $20 learn about the SUs; if yours are really jacked up then send them in to ZT as a core and get rebuild SUs from them. Then take the money you have saved and use it to fix things that really need attention like any rust in the car. Down the road some day if you want a carb conversion you may want to consider a tripple setup like SK, Mikuni, or Webber; however you will not get the real benefit of this conversion without some other modifications such as a hotter cam.

That is odd that it was first registered in 12/71 considering the production date! That would imply that it sat somewhere for 20 months after rolling off the production line before being sold to a customer.

If you are dead set on the 4bbl conversion both Arizona Z Car and Clifford make the manifold for better than $400 new (used will still cost you better than $200) then you will have to go buy the carb. Seriously, you will be better off with the SU carbs...the engine and carbs were designed to work together for maximum performance. If you look at the 4bbl intake you can clearly see that the #3 and #4 cyl will be running rich, the #2 and #5 will be 'about' right, and the #1 and #6 will be lean. This is a VERY poor running situation. Please, do your research before doing this swap.

Cheaper insurance!

I have found that all I have to do is pay for a new title and fill out a couple SHORT forms and the year on my title will be corrected. This is in TX though, you may want to check with the AZ authorities to see if it's that easy there too.

First off welcome to the site!! You should update your profile indicating where you are located so that people can direct you to local places for Z car stuff if any exist in your area. You will find that this site is the most helpful and knowledgable on the web not to mention the most willing to provide assistance to others. Now on to your questions...I say don't do the 4bbl conversion. If you carbs are all jacked up then get rebuilt ones from ZT (the website mentioned above) and be done with it. This will likely cost you less also! Rust...that's a four letter word! No really, it is. Rust is really the only thing that will kill these cars short of a tragic accident. Anything mechanical can be fixed/replaced/repaired pretty easily but rust can become a problem not worth attacking. Search this site and do your homework, there have been lots of discussions about where to look for rust on these cars and how to repair certain areas. There are patch panels made for some comon rust locations like the dog legs, but for others like the battery tray you are on your own.

The one I have is a Central Pnumatic #42202 Hope this helps.

I have two parts cars, a '73 rust bucket and a '75 with some real frame damage. I'm cutting up the '75 and can't wait! I'm looking forward to it and think it will be fun to cut up an entire car (something I've never done before). If you need any body parts let me know before they are gone.

First off welcome to the site! The bumpers you are asking about are from a 240Z made from '70-'73 and you can either buy used from many sources including this site (and others) in the classified section, eBay, and numerous used Z parts dealers; or you can buy 'new' (as in reproduction not OEM) from either VB or MSA. For a listing of parts sources you can search this site and find a couple threads where people have provided names and links to many places...or shoot me an email and I'll send you my personal list (it's not exhaustive but quite long).

I know I'm a *little* late to this party so the problem I'm running into is to be expected. However, I'm trying to watch the videos of the 240Z and all the links are dead. Does anyone have these saved or new working links to them?

Do you have any good information/experience that leads you to suggest the MSD over a newer Nissan electronic ignition like to one I had in mind?

Do you have any suggestions? I had planned on just buying OEM motor and tranny mounts based upon other people's suggestions. It will be getting an Optima, no question about it.

Yikes!!! Certainly he's misdirecting his issue at the troops instead of those that make the policies...however I have to say that the interviewers never gave him the opportunity to complete a sentence and that's just wrong. They invited him onto their show and then did nothing but attack him and not allow him to state his point...the interviews were not acting in a professional manner in my opinion (I do understand that they were pissed off but they should still act professionally).

Since it's not on their website I'll have to see if I can locate it. Strange that it was in the local store but not on the website, I have found it to typically to just the opposite...I find something I want on their website and it's not in the store (a catalog or website only item). Why the plastic bag? The larger one from mine had a flourescent light in it but no bag and I see another one on their site that also has a flourescent light with no bag. I was planning on putting a light in mine and would like to know your experience. Will, maybe these will help you: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39874 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39873 I agree, these stupid things are expensive...$2/each!! :surprised

I have just been out playing with mine and even my wife had fun cleaning some parts! :surprised Now I know who I can get to clean my parts for me. :laugh: I just looked at H/F website and the one I bought was not on there. I got one that is larger than the grey one but a little smaller than the red one and it was only $124. It's a bench top unit but I bought a tool cart from eBay with locking wheels and three shelves to keep it on this way I can roll it out into my driveway to use and not make a mess in the garage. Plus I not have two additional shelves for storage! The parts I just blasted were part of the throttle linkage, the alternator bracket, and I started in on one motor mount (the metal part that attaches to the block). The linkage part was the first one I did and it looks 100% better but it could still use a little work. Next I did the alt. bracket and it looks brand new!! I'm now convinced that this purchase was well worth it. I am using the H/F glass beads in it, a 50lb box was only about $30 and the cabinet holds about 10lbs of media at a time (that's what the directions said to put in at least). I think that I will have to install a drier between my compressor and the cabinet though, there seems to be too much moisture in the air coming directly from the compressor. That takes me to the compressor...I'm using a 6hp 30gal Craftsman which out paces the blast cabinet with the tip on the gun as it came (one of the larger ones if not the largest tip that it came with).

I just got my blast cabinet from Harbor Freight set up and working and have a quick question. The gun inside came with four total (one installed) ceramic tips and the holes in the end are of varrying size. Can anyone help me understand what the intended use of the different sizes are please?

Ed, very good. I'll mark up one of the pix of where to cut and post back. I know shipping will cost a bit due to the size...I'm hoping you are cheap on the part itself.

I'll be waiting to hear from you.

I had considered buying it myself but it has gone higher than I would pay at this time (I have one project and 2 parts cars already and it would have only been to fix and resell for a profit to help fund my project). As for the guy I know, I just got an email back from him and he could not hold out for a Z any longer and bought a 240SX at the end of March so he'd not even looking any longer (not a friend, just someone I was keeping an eye out for a Z since he asked me several months ago). So you are in the clear as far as me being involved in any bidding. Best of luck to you!! I'm a little shocked at how high it has gone also considering the information he provided in the austion and the kind of response I got to my questions (supporting the fact that he does not know anything about cars). Maybe they are some local people like yourself that were able to go and inspect the car to see for themselves what it's condition is. I don't know. By the way, he still has not sent the additional info/pix to me that he said he would.

Man and I thought my parts car from the Texas coast was a rust bucket! It's not far behind this one but you still have more rust than I do. I would love the next pix of the battery tray after the sun moves and it's not so shadowed. How much are you looking to get for this area?

I've been talking with this guy via email for a couple days and he's supposed to check for rust today. I would be interested to hear what you find though as I do not have a lot of confidence in the seller's knowledge based upon our emails. It does not seem to be too bad of a car...depending upon the rust. No worries though, I am not buying it...I was just passing the info on to someone I know who wants a Z car but he probably will not buy it either.

You need to edit your link, it doesn't have the URL in it and thus does not work.

If Ed is not able to help with the ebrake handle I have one. Also, if he can not help you with the sheet metal I have two parts cars that I can cut up (a '73 and a '75).

Can you send/post pix of the battery tray? Is it really rust free?

Ok, you can not 'force' an insurance company into doing what you want...but you can try and direct them in the direction you would like to see it go. As the others have said, if they are trying to total the car it's simply because the cost of repairs are at or over what they feel the value of the car is. This in NO way implies that the car can not be repaired. They are in business to make money and this means paying out the least amount on a claim they can get away with. I also want to clarify something that a couple others have states here. If the repair quotes you got are $3k this in no way means that the insurance company will pay you $3k. It has been mentioned that you take the $3k and find another car or take the $3k and buy back your car and fix it. I do not see anywhere that you have said that they offered you $3k for your car so please understand how the process works. Now as for how to keep your car and get it fixed. I once was in this situation and the car I had was above average for it's age/make/model but the insurance company still wanted to total it because of the cost of repairs vs. the value they determined the car to be worth. In my case I did end up taking the money we finally agreed upon for the car to be totalled (more than the initial offer) and then "bought the car back from them" and had it repaired. NO title was ever exchanged therefore it never showed as a salvage auto. How did I manage this you ask? I refused to settle the claim, I NEVER released the car to them. This did a couple things, they could not send the car off to the crusher as I never released it to them, and the longer it sat the more they were racking up in storage fees from the repair shop it was at. This equates to a little bit of leverage. I also did what has been mentioned here...I gave them three options, 1) fix it 2) replace it with one in like condition (this would have cost them the most) 3) pay me what I showed the car to really be worth (not the blue book value) less their salvage cost and I would get it fixed. They obviously choose option 3...but not for several weeks. It ended up where the claims supervisor called me and flat out asked me what I wanted and that's finally when we were able to come to an agreement. Of course by this time the repair shop had already fixed it by my request as I knew that I would be keeping the car one way or another (options 1 or 3 above as I knew that they would not take 2 due to the added expense in locating a car, inspections, and the purchase price that one would run). Yes, this was a risk I ran but it paid off. Now this car was nothing special, it was only an '84 Accord, but as many may know the Honda's are worth more than what the blue book lists them at (or at least that's the way it was at the time). Oh and for reference this accident was in early summer of '90. Ways I showed the car's true value was through receipts, however know that if you show a repair for brake work they will say "so what, that's normal maintence" but any modifications done that would increase the value will help. Don't believe me...I tried this because I had just pur $350 worth of new tires on the car two weeks before the accident and got the same reply! I also pulled ads from the paper and car dealerships for other cars of the same make/model and explained that neither I nor they knew the condition of these other cars but we both knew the condition of mine and could clearly see that their value was too low. I also provided the paperwork from where I had bought it two years earlier for more than twice what they claimed it to be worth. All of this kind of information will help you and support your claims about the value of the car. If you are also wondering my basis for some of what I stated here...I used to work for one of the largest auto insurance companies in the country. I didn't work in claims but certainly do understand how they work and still remember many of the rules...every state IS different so please also keep this in mind. I hope that this information and my story helps you out. I suggest not pressing too many buttons until you are certain that you will not be able to close the claim to your satisfaction. The claims person is you friend and can be very helpful to you so do not alienate them right off the bat or you will have an up hill battle on your hands.