texasz

Ahhh yes, it was only a matter of time before someone said it.

I disagree on one point...you will find good shells for sale frequently. There are many reasons for this and not the least of which is someone started a project and for what ever reason is giving up. Another reason would be someone who parted out a 'rust free' car (who knows why, but probably because it no longer ran and they didn't want to spend the time/money to fix it or maybe didn't know any better) and is now left with only the shell. I would agree that these are fewer than complete cars though but when found are far cheaper than a complete car in the same 'rust free' condition.

Ok, I work with my cabinet a bit more today and am thinking that a shop vac is a good idea. :cross-eye Too hard to see with out one. Will, I'm also waiting on that pic you mentioned of how you did the light so I can get a light in there also.

I've been trying to buy this car for weeks and it's way over priced and he will not budge on his reserve!! He refuses to accept the fact that it's not worth what he wants. FYI: reserve is $1000 He has also told me that there are a few missing parts (would not specify, but you can see the hatch vents are gone). Also note that it has the incorrect valve cover for this production date! This car is rusty from what he has told me and what can be seen in the pix. This car has also not been started on 8-10 years per the seller. I advised him that I paid $1500 for my running, driving, licensed, registered, titled Z which is a month older than his (i.e. lower VIN FWIW) and FAR less rust. He has yet to reply...and probably will not. I wouldn't pay more than $500 for this one personally.

This may be better off in the History section of this site located here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=104

Before you crush it please let me know as I would like some pieces from it. That is unless the whole shell goes to a good home which I'd also rather see.

Now that is VERY interesting!!

I was wondering the same thing this afternoon!!

The number of cars you are thinking were produced in a month is likely about right. In mid to late 1970 I have calculated that they were putting out about 2000 Z cars per month. This is just a rough guess since we only know the month of production and not the day (big difference between the 1st and 30th of the month). They seem to have really ramped up production after the first part of the year when they realized how popular the car was.

There was a suggested conversion to the Webber DGV carbs a bit earlier in this thread. This is not as bad as the 4bbl but still not as good as staying with a side-draft carb (i.e. the SUs or some tripple setup). These engines work best with side-draft carbs due to the location of the intake. As it was stated previously about the 4bbl, the air/fuel mixture travels down through the carb then must make a 90* turn to then travel into the head. This turn impeads the flow and results in a reduction in performance. In all honesty, buy the video for $20 learn about the SUs; if yours are really jacked up then send them in to ZT as a core and get rebuild SUs from them. Then take the money you have saved and use it to fix things that really need attention like any rust in the car. Down the road some day if you want a carb conversion you may want to consider a tripple setup like SK, Mikuni, or Webber; however you will not get the real benefit of this conversion without some other modifications such as a hotter cam.

That is odd that it was first registered in 12/71 considering the production date! That would imply that it sat somewhere for 20 months after rolling off the production line before being sold to a customer.

If you are dead set on the 4bbl conversion both Arizona Z Car and Clifford make the manifold for better than $400 new (used will still cost you better than $200) then you will have to go buy the carb. Seriously, you will be better off with the SU carbs...the engine and carbs were designed to work together for maximum performance. If you look at the 4bbl intake you can clearly see that the #3 and #4 cyl will be running rich, the #2 and #5 will be 'about' right, and the #1 and #6 will be lean. This is a VERY poor running situation. Please, do your research before doing this swap.

Cheaper insurance!

I have found that all I have to do is pay for a new title and fill out a couple SHORT forms and the year on my title will be corrected. This is in TX though, you may want to check with the AZ authorities to see if it's that easy there too.

First off welcome to the site!! You should update your profile indicating where you are located so that people can direct you to local places for Z car stuff if any exist in your area. You will find that this site is the most helpful and knowledgable on the web not to mention the most willing to provide assistance to others. Now on to your questions...I say don't do the 4bbl conversion. If you carbs are all jacked up then get rebuilt ones from ZT (the website mentioned above) and be done with it. This will likely cost you less also! Rust...that's a four letter word! No really, it is. Rust is really the only thing that will kill these cars short of a tragic accident. Anything mechanical can be fixed/replaced/repaired pretty easily but rust can become a problem not worth attacking. Search this site and do your homework, there have been lots of discussions about where to look for rust on these cars and how to repair certain areas. There are patch panels made for some comon rust locations like the dog legs, but for others like the battery tray you are on your own.

The one I have is a Central Pnumatic #42202 Hope this helps.

I have two parts cars, a '73 rust bucket and a '75 with some real frame damage. I'm cutting up the '75 and can't wait! I'm looking forward to it and think it will be fun to cut up an entire car (something I've never done before). If you need any body parts let me know before they are gone.

First off welcome to the site! The bumpers you are asking about are from a 240Z made from '70-'73 and you can either buy used from many sources including this site (and others) in the classified section, eBay, and numerous used Z parts dealers; or you can buy 'new' (as in reproduction not OEM) from either VB or MSA. For a listing of parts sources you can search this site and find a couple threads where people have provided names and links to many places...or shoot me an email and I'll send you my personal list (it's not exhaustive but quite long).

I know I'm a *little* late to this party so the problem I'm running into is to be expected. However, I'm trying to watch the videos of the 240Z and all the links are dead. Does anyone have these saved or new working links to them?

Do you have any good information/experience that leads you to suggest the MSD over a newer Nissan electronic ignition like to one I had in mind?

Do you have any suggestions? I had planned on just buying OEM motor and tranny mounts based upon other people's suggestions. It will be getting an Optima, no question about it.

Yikes!!! Certainly he's misdirecting his issue at the troops instead of those that make the policies...however I have to say that the interviewers never gave him the opportunity to complete a sentence and that's just wrong. They invited him onto their show and then did nothing but attack him and not allow him to state his point...the interviews were not acting in a professional manner in my opinion (I do understand that they were pissed off but they should still act professionally).

Since it's not on their website I'll have to see if I can locate it. Strange that it was in the local store but not on the website, I have found it to typically to just the opposite...I find something I want on their website and it's not in the store (a catalog or website only item). Why the plastic bag? The larger one from mine had a flourescent light in it but no bag and I see another one on their site that also has a flourescent light with no bag. I was planning on putting a light in mine and would like to know your experience. Will, maybe these will help you: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39874 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39873 I agree, these stupid things are expensive...$2/each!! :surprised

I have just been out playing with mine and even my wife had fun cleaning some parts! :surprised Now I know who I can get to clean my parts for me. :laugh: I just looked at H/F website and the one I bought was not on there. I got one that is larger than the grey one but a little smaller than the red one and it was only $124. It's a bench top unit but I bought a tool cart from eBay with locking wheels and three shelves to keep it on this way I can roll it out into my driveway to use and not make a mess in the garage. Plus I not have two additional shelves for storage! The parts I just blasted were part of the throttle linkage, the alternator bracket, and I started in on one motor mount (the metal part that attaches to the block). The linkage part was the first one I did and it looks 100% better but it could still use a little work. Next I did the alt. bracket and it looks brand new!! I'm now convinced that this purchase was well worth it. I am using the H/F glass beads in it, a 50lb box was only about $30 and the cabinet holds about 10lbs of media at a time (that's what the directions said to put in at least). I think that I will have to install a drier between my compressor and the cabinet though, there seems to be too much moisture in the air coming directly from the compressor. That takes me to the compressor...I'm using a 6hp 30gal Craftsman which out paces the blast cabinet with the tip on the gun as it came (one of the larger ones if not the largest tip that it came with).

I just got my blast cabinet from Harbor Freight set up and working and have a quick question. The gun inside came with four total (one installed) ceramic tips and the holes in the end are of varrying size. Can anyone help me understand what the intended use of the different sizes are please?