texasz

Have already read that post and it just confused me more. :stupid: When I see cams listed for sale the above info is all that's availabl as far as specs go. The intake and exhaust are the same if this helps any.

Can someone help me understand what the lift and duration numbers mean? More importantly how do I compare different cams and know what their characteristics will be like? Example: Lift .441 Duration 260* Lift .460 Duration 260* Lift .480 Duration 274* How do I compare these and know which one is good for what application?

Ok, thanx for the 411 abas and bambi. The price was not a consideration for me at this point, I am just interested in the quality and strength mostly...just as you said bambi, I want the engine to stay where it belongs especially since it will have a bit more power than a stock L24.

Why do you recommend OEM mounts? Are they better than all of the aftermarket one? I have not shopped for this part yet but will be needing some soon and want to know if there is a better quality aftermarket part avialable.

Used Brake Booster/Master Vac - SOLD! Dash Trim Piece (goes between dash & windshield) - $10 Series II Dash (in very bad shape) - $20 Sun Visors - $5 Oil/Temp Guage - $10 Speedo Speedometer- $10 Defogger Switch from Series II - $5 4-Speed Tranny - make offer L24 Block (no rods or pistons) - make offer L24 Crank Shaft - make offer Stock '73 Diff - make offer Rear Wiring Harness - $30 2 Exhaust Manifolds from '73 - make offer Exhaust Manifold for Round Exhaust Ports - make offer Front Grill from '73 - SOLD! Rear Hatch w/one Rust Spot (no glass) - $50 Air Cleaner Assembly from '82 280ZX - $20 includes shipping in lower 48 P79 Head (includes cam, cam gear for timing chain, head bolts, and valve cover) - make offer (should be at least what I could sell the parts for) Door Sill Scuff Plates (includes mounting screws) - $15 Driver's & Passenger Door Window Trim/Track/Frame - SOLD! Driver's & Passenger Door Locking & Latching Mechs & Interior Door Handle - $25/each Driver's & Passenger Door Locks w/Connecting Rod (no keys) - $30 Secret Doors/Tool Storage Doors from Series II - $15 Passenger Door Hinges - make offer Original Space Saver Spare (looks like it was never used) - make offer Driver's & Passenger Door Striker Plates - make offer Hatch Window Chrome - $20 Stock Front Sway Bar - make offer A/C Components (condition unknown!), no compressor - make offer Complete E88 Head (less valve cover) - SOLD! E88 head without cam or cam towers (these are available from the P79 I have) – make offer Alternator - make offer Clutch Master Cylinder - make offer Both Headlight Assemblies (not the buckets, just the headlight/wiring/etc.) - make offer American Racing Mag Wheels - $350 Mechanical Fuel Pump – SOLD! Inside Door Sill Vinyl – make offer Front Bumper Mounting Brackets - SOLD! Many misc. parts from ’73 parts car which are still on the car (i.e. brake lines, fuel lines, suspension, steering, etc) are also available if you want to come pull them. Pix are available for many parts on my website, if you don't see pix of want you want just ask and I'll shoot some and post them also. Here's the link: http://www.pape.ws/gallery/Parts_Car

If you go this route don't forget that you will have to swap from the dished pistons in the turbo engine to flat-top pistons from a NA engine. With this in mind it may get more costly than you want...if you could find someone to trade even your turbo engine for an NA engine you would be ahead already. That is if you go this route...now if you were wanting the turbo then you are already ahead of the game and from the sounds of it only have to replace the turbo and begin the swap.

Nope! There are many of us that wish someone did though. Your best bet is to search the junk yards for one that is not rusted (if you're VERY lucky). Next best is to either repair what you have or have a new piece fabricated (EXPENSIVE). Sorry I couldn't have had better news for you.

I would love them but can't get up there to take them off your hands. I know a guy in FT Worth that may be interested. I'll shoot him an email right now!

Don't be so sure! There are MANY people who would be interested in a car like what you have. Especially if it is rust free as there are not that many rust free cars in the midwest. I'd sell it as is. For a better idea of what you have though, you should post up some pix here and you will get a more accurate feedback. Just out of curiosity how much would you sell the whole thing for?

I'm with most...what the hell happened???

Welcome to Texas. I'm not exactly close, I'm in Austin which is about 3-4 hours south depending on how you drive and traffic. There are many Z around the state! Here are some links to the local clubs: Austin Dallas Houston San Antonio South Texas (I haven't seen much from them ever) The Austin club is hosting a Z car show in two weeks, you should come down for it and meet some of the other Z people you are likely to run into occasionally. Here's a link to the info on it: http://www.capitalzoftexas.com/archives/events/9.18.2004/show2004.php If you do come down for it stop by and say hi to me (I'll be hear my car which is in my avitar and will be entered in the stock class 240Z).

What??? The L28 didn't have an E31 head...ever. That head was only available on the '70 and very early '71 240Z which all have an L24 block.

Hard to tell from the pix but since the hatch is the same color I'd say that it's just painted. On the cars I've seen that did have the vinyl tops it was only the roof and pillars, not the hatch. I have seen another Z or two with a paint job like this (different color though).

IMO the ducted one like 26th-z posted in the first pic is what's going on my car. I just like the style of it, it looks agressive while not looking like "rice".

Mine is an AC Delco from O'Rileys and was $50 or $60.

The Capital Z of Texas club is hosting their annual Z car show on 9/18. Here's a link that should give you all the information you need about the event: http://www.capitalzoftexas.com/archives/events/9.18.2004/show2004.php

I noticed that the FWD holds the road even when it's wet better than a RWD (i.e. the RWD tends to break loose more than the FWD did).

I'm assuming so since he says that one bearing needs replaced.

Anyone got any information about the Cusco LSD for the R180 diff? There's one on eBay and I'm just wondering about them as I've never heard of it. Here's a link to the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7918914816&fromMakeTrack=true Any help on this would be great!!

Well I just got an email from parts@midwestz.com Unfortunately it was only the "W32.Netsky.P@mm" virus!

It's not worth anything!! You should just give it to me. :devious: Seriously though, very nice looking car.

Post the link you are having trouble with and someone here may be able to help.

For daily driving I like the BFGoodrich Radial TAs but for autocross I have heard that the Falken Azines (sp?).

I'd be interested in seeing these too so I know what and where to look for them.