texasz

I am looking for a set of turbo head bolts...preferably new ones. Anyone got some for sale? How much?

BUMP! Still tons of stuff left, check out the list as it has grown! On stuff that says make offer...seriously...make me an offer or all this goes to the crusher.

If anyone out there has an R180 that you would be willing to sell parts from I'm looking for the companion flanges from one.

From what I understand basically, yes you would need to run premium if you have a 10:1 CR.

I didn't mention that the N42 and the N47 are exactly the same except for the exhaust ports. So if you do have the N47 you could still put it on your '82 block and get the same 10:1 compression. Only reason I said just drop the entire '82 engine in if you had the N47 head was for ease.

Or if the '77 head happens to be an N42 put it on the 280ZX block. With the flat-top pistons this combination will yeild aprox 10:1 compression ratio. As for your manifold question, the intakes should be the same. The exhaust on the other hand may be different. If your '77 head is an N47 they are both the same, round exhaust ports but if your '77 head is an N42 these will be square ports and the 280ZX which has a P79 head are round ports. The issue here is pretty simple, if your '77 head is an N47 then just drop in your entire 280ZX engine and you're good to go just as hls30.com said...if your '77 head is an N42 do as I said above and you will still not have to change the manifolds. Easy solution either way!

For what it's worth to anyone who wants to take on this task as you already know you will need the peddles from a standard. I just removed the ones from my parts car last night and it's really quite easy, took maybe 15 minutes. The brake peddle it held in place by one bolt at the top which is where it pivots, this is removed from the right side of the peddle (you must also unhook the return spring and remove the pin/bolt which attaches it to the brake booster). The clutch peddle is just the same except that the bolt is on the left side. This presents a problem as the driver's side fresh air vent is in the way of getting a socket wrench up there, this part is only held on by 3 philips screws and is easily removed with a stubby philips screwdriver. Then remove the pivot bolt, the spring, and the pin/bolt attaching the peddle to the clutch master cylinder. That's it! If you want the gas peddle it is held in by 4 philips screws. Remove them and unattach the thorttle linkage (which just pops off) and you're done with removing that one. Hope this is able to help someone out there.

Post a pic of them. I'd be interested in seeing them. Unless they are the slot mags I don't know anything about them though.

I must agree with everyone else, $5000 is too high. For that price you can get one in better condition pretty easily, or pay less for one in comparable condition then use the savings to fix her up the way you want.

I think I know the car you're talking about, I saw it for sale and considered it but too far to drive and I have my hands full already. If it's the one I'm thinking of I believe you got a great deal on it. Wecome to the club and we'll be talking with you as your project progresses. :classic:

What year is this for? Price?

I must agree...I'm completely speachless. My condolances to James and all who are affected by this. He will be greatly missed by all here and everyone close to him. I know he's driving that perfect Z car in the sky.

Yes, as everyone else has said they will work.

If either of you end up not being able to fix it shoot me an email or PM, I have one for sale.

Here's a link to a couple threads I started on this very topic and there's a lot of good information in them. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=137998&sortby=&sortorder= To find them all I did was use the search feature at the bottom of the forum index page. (lame attempt at pointing out the search feature)

This list has been added to several times since it was first posted!

Why would you say this? Take a look at the stock air box and you see that the air comes in from the front just as it does with this cold air intake and must pass the front carb before getting to the rear one. Seems like no difference as far as the air delivery to the front vs. rear carb to me. The only way around this is to pull the stock air box and put on something like the K&N or Ramaflo air cleaners that MSA sells.

I did the same thing but only sent a note to the current high bidder.

But of course he will not be sending any email to the bidders to clear this up either...he'll just take the money, send the pic and call it a day. Very sad that people have no morals any longer. If it weren't clearly stated in the auction that this is only for a pic I'd feel bad for the person who wins, but in this case not...they should have read and if it was still unclear send an email before bidding. *shrug*

Absolutely amazing site! Talke about packed with info...

I have the following parts for sale (and others that I can not think of, jsut ask); all items are obo: Used Brake Booster/Master Vac - $40 Dash Trim Piece (goes between dash & windshield) - $10 Series II Dash (in very bad shape) - $20 Sun Visors - $5 Gas Cap Assembly - SOLD Front & Rear Bumpers from '73 Sold as Set w/mounting brackets - SOLD Oil/Temp Guage - $10 Speedo Speedometer- $10 Defogger Switch from Series II - $5 Original Horn Pad (not in great shape) - SOLD 4-Speed Tranny - make offer L24 Block - make offer Stock '73 Diff - make offer Rear Wiring Harness - $30 2 Exhaust Manifolds from '73 - make offer Exhaust Manifold for Round Exhaust Ports - make offer Front Grill from '73 - $15 Rear Hatch w/one Rust Spot (no glass) - $50 Air Cleaner Assembly from '82 280ZX - $20 includes shipping in lower 48 P79 Head (includes cam, cam gear for timing chain, head bolts, and valve cover) - make offer (should be at least what I could sell the parts for) Door Sill Scuff Plates (includes mounting screws) - $15 1 Glovebox Door (on the right in the pix) - SOLD Driver's & Passenger Door Window Trim/Track/Frame - make offer Driver's & Passenger Door Locking & Latching Mechs & Interior Door Handle - make offer Driver's & Passenger Door Locks w/Connecting Rod (no keys) - make offer Secret Doors/Tool Storage Doors from Series II - $15 Driver's Door Hinges - SOLD Passenger Door Hinges - make offer Choke Cable w/Choke Handle Mounting Plate - NLA Passenger Window Regulator - make offer Turn Signal Switch - SOLD Driver's & Passenger Window Roller (rubber roller and mount) - $5 Original Space Saver Spare (looks like it was never used) - make offer Driver's & Passenger Door Striker Plates - make offer Windshield Wiper Arms - make offer Hatch Window Chrome - $20 Stock Front Sway Bar - make offer A/C Compressor (condition unknown!) - SOLD Other A/C Components (condition unknown!) - make offer Radiator - SOLD E88 Head - make offer Alternator - make offer Clutch Master Cylinder - make offer Both Headlight Assemblies - make offer Entire Front Lower Valance - NLA All items are available for local pick up (and this is preferred for the larger items). Shipping and packing will be added to the total price as aplicable. Pix are available on my website , if the item you are interested in does not have a pic up just ask and I'll get one for you. I accept money order, cash (if pick up, not safe to mail cash), and PayPal (if you cover the fee).

Yes, and why in the world would you spend over $50 on a picture of an engine!? :bandit: I'm going to go take pix of mine tonight and post them up on eBay. :stupid:

Here's a link I found on another board, it looks like a pretty good site. http://www.geocities.com/jasonparuta/

Very well done Bambi, this is the same thing I would have advised. I too do this. :classic:

Then try searching the manufacturer's website for the owner's/installation manual. You really need to figure out what all the wires are for FIRST, you can damage your unit by hooking up power to the wrong wire.