texasz

Keeping with the spirit...

And one last one because someone mentioned the type of channel, so here's a shot of the channel after removal.

Now for those interested in the pieces themselves, here's a shot of the pieces after removal.

Next one is after removal...note that not only were these attached with one screw at each end but also with the 'tape' running the full length of them.

Ok, I've worked on this a bit and have some pix to share. The first is a pic of how these are mounted to the car.

I didn't really expect to move it as a whole unit...was hoping to though. I guess that you'll be seeing parts of it for sale here and there in the future. :devious:

Z-Kid, this is off topic but your avitar kills me everytime I see it...I just can't stop laughing.

There's one on there now for $0.99 and NO bids! I really don't want to have to toss it in the trash but it seems as though if I do not it will sit in my garage for ever. I wonder if the core is worth anything!?

I'd like to know what head components are interchangable between all L series engines from the Z cars (i.e. E88, E31, N42, N47, P79, P90, etc)? Obviously the valve cover is but how about the cam, cam towers, valve springs, etc? I'm asking because I have a complete P79 head that I have listed on 3 forums including this site and nobody has expressed any interest, as I expected, so I'm wondering if there's any value in taking it apart and selling the smaller parts of it mentioned above.

As you can see in this pic my car has this black strip that runs down each side to help prevent door dings. I want to remove it since it's starting to come off already any how but do not know how it's attached nor what it will look like once removed. Is this stuff just stuck on with glue or double side 3M 'tape'? Any tips or advice would be great. Hmmmmm.....ok I can not seem to link to a pic in My Gallery so here's the link to the pic I was trying to show: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5609&size=big&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

I agree, more pix and LOTS more info will help you sell it and generate alot more interest.

Thank you for pointing that out, this was my problem and it's easy to fix. About $70 in parts for 2 of the high quality race u-joints and another $50 I paid someone to do the work (while I watched and learned, never to pay for this again now) and "the clunk in my trunk" was gone!

Very true!

If you look behind the car you can see the blue tarp was must have been on the car.

I have a P79 head from a running '82 280ZX for sale. Please make me an offer and be clear as to what you are expecting for your price!

Honestly, if you're gonna have to do any tranny work just swap it to a 5-speed. You will probably spend a bit more money but IMHO a sports car deserves a stick not an automatic. Also, earlier on you were talking about the car only going 60mph and asking if an R200 diff would help. The R180 or R200 does not affect this at all, what would affect this would be the ratio; that is if this was even your problem which it doesn't sound like it is. As it was already mentioned the lower ratio is good for top end and the higher ration is better of the hole shot, you must strike a balance with the ratio and the gear ratio of the tranny based upon the kind of driving you expect to do. As for the weight vs. amount of HP it will handle the info is correct, the R200 does weigh more but this is a function of it being built to handle more HP...but if you are running a stock set up then you should not be in danger of damaging your R180 diff.

So true, so true!

Not really the case. Here's a link to a thread from last year that provides all the info about the R180 and R200 ratio options: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2 And as such also heavier. I mention this because for some racers they try and cut weight anywhere they can.

Sorry I never answered your question. Yes, that was the one I was bidding on...I was trying to get it for a little coin and allowed it to go very cheap. The winning bidder got a good deal on this for eBay.

My solution to this is shipping everything either via UPS or FedEx and as soon as the item is shipped email the buyer their tracking number. If they have questions as to where it is check the tracking and/or call the carrier.

Here's the other pic. And oh yes, here's his reply:

This thread has gone astray...I'm not asking how eBay works, I've been a buyer and seller for years and know full well that sniping is the way to go...I do it myself. Nor am I mad or anything over this, that's the way it works and I wasn't willing to go too high on these items. What I was curious is what this guy may be working on. I did shoot him an email and it appears as though he's from Japan since the last part of his email is @nifty.ne.jp and the bidder is not the actual buyer, it's the buyer's friend since the actual buyer does not speek very good English (the bidder's English is tought to follow as well but he's really making the effort). Any how, I have attached the pix of his cars if anyone is interested...what I'd still like to know is why he wants these valve covers? They will not work on the cars pictured.

eBay user ID navyzero Is this person a member on this board? He's bought 3 "Nissan 2400 OHC" valve covers in the last few months off eBay two of which he's out bid me on. I'm just wondering how many cars he's working on and what they look like (not mad about being out bid, dissapointed but not mad...that's just the way eBay works). I looked over the three auctions for these valve covers and he's a sniper! Comes in with less than 10seconds left in the auction and places his winning bid. Damn it! :devious: Oh well, that's life.

If I don't miss my guess this is advertised as for a 240Z when it really is not. Is it? I don't see the spot to mount the 240 front turn signal lights.

I am really interested depending upon the condition and price.