texasz

Anyone have a car trailer they want to sell? I'm looking for one with a dovetail, slide out ramps, bumper pull (no gooseneck), around 18' and in the Texas area. Oh yes, and cheap! It's ok if it needs some work. I'm just looking for something to move my Zs around with.

Originallity...not sooo important Appearance....important With that said, I would want the screws to be black so that they blend in like the originals did. However, I do not own a bench grinder.

I need the three screws/bolts and nuts that are used to hold the lens cover on for the rear license plate light. I hope this makes sense. If not please let me know and I will post a pic to help.

Ok here are some answers and a link to my photo gallery where you can see many pix of it from the very beginning all the way to the completed game. Arizona240z Cost was about $1000 as she sits today. There are kind of instructions available, you have to do some research and pull some of the information together yourself but it's all out there (this is how I found out about these things); I'd be willing to point you in the right direction (i.e. provide my bookmark list for this project). I could make another one I'm sure but not only will it cost you materials but also my time (these are time consuming!) and shipping (shipping from what I understand runs around $300 for these guys). I promise that it would cost less than what other comapnies are selling them for...$5000+ (these ones do have a larger monitor than mine currently does, but that will change). Sure, you can come play....just make sure you bring lots of quarters! Yes, it has a working coin door! Gav240z First thank you for the complement! Same as above for the research and also sharing my bookmarks. There is a group of people called "MAME Burners" who have the ROMs and will burn copies for the cost of the CDs and shipping (roughly speaking). Some of these people have other ROMs like the Atari 2600, Super NES, Gameboy, Apple IIe, TI99, etc, etc, etc (the list is VERY long). I got the entire set about a year ago...I think everything takes around 40 CDs. Anything else we can either take off-line or start a new thread for, I don't want to take away from what this thread started out as.

I built that bad boy, that's why I'm so proud of it. :classic: It is the same MAME, there is a PC inside the case that runs the whole thing. I have not found any problems with the way it runs the games. This has instantly made me the "cool, favorite uncle" with my nephews! How about that 280zzzz game! Ok, it does suck...but it's Z related.

Looks like someone is enjoying their Super Goo program! Any how, I have been lurking quietly on this thread since day one but have not posted due to computer issues. I have many of them worked out now, at least the ones that have kept me from posting my pic so here it is. This is me standing next to my last project, a full sized 4-player arcade game wich runs MAME (Multiple Arcade Machine Emulator) enabeling it to play over 3400 games from the '70s, '80s, '90s, and '00s. It includes a track ball, spinner, and steering wheel and pedles for a wide variety in games. I figured someone would ask so I'd just explain up front...plus I'm REALLY proud of it!! :classic:

WTF is that!!!!!!!!! I really can not believe this!! And someone is bidding on it??? I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... Shopping List: rocks black marker :stupid:

Good lord!! What kind of fuel do you have to run in that monster? Jet fuel??

Many if not all the '83s came with a P90a head (not to be confused with the P90) wich is the one with the hydrolic lifters. These are generally considered scrap metal by most, the P90 is the preferred head. The non-turbo model from the time frame you listed is a P79, also not one you would want to keep. Hope this answers your question; or at least helps.

Does nobody else have any input on what tires are good for autocroxing when it's wet out? I'd like as many people's experience as possible.

Sorry, I can't help you with this one. I didn't even see them.

Damn those look just like a set I sold to a guy in Houston on ebay a couple months back for $20!! I hope that they are not otherwise he's making a great profit just off reselling them.

Now all they have to do is learn how to drive that fancy car!! Full story is located here if you want to read it: http://www.9news.com/storyfull.aspx?storyid=21728

Check out this thread for a good discussion on this also. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9004

Certainly read the zgarage site, it is packed with info!! Now some things that may or may not be on that site (a summary if you will) all of which is from my research not personal experience: F54 block was in the '81(or '80)-'83 240ZX, the turbo model has dished pistons, the non-turbo has flat top pistons the P90 is a turbo head and to get good results from it I have found that you must shave it, shim the cam towers, etc. the N42 head will give you about the same results as the worked over P90 just by putting it on an F54 block with flat top pistons, results being about a 10:1 CR I agree with the 3.9 or 4.11 diff completely! on the tranny I am going with the '77 5-speed (which I believe to be the same as the '78 and '79), here's a site with a nifty calculator to help you decide: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ header and larger exhaust yes, either a 2.25 or 2.5 (there is some debate on which is better) carb or injection, your choice (I'm staying with SUs) HAVE FUN!!!

Here, here Jeff!! I have to agree. The L24 was never designed to be a turbo, the F54 block on the L28 engines was designed as such and therefore built a little stronger (some will argue this point). They do not cost all that much, infact I think I've seen one on here recently for sale...or maybe that was over on www.hybridz.org (since many of those guys are doing V8 swaps the just want to get the L6 out of the way and do not charge too much). Much less work this way and it's a drop in upgrade...except for all the wiring and turbo conncetions but you'd have to do that much any how.

Coke-a-cola works for problems like corrided battery terminals! And to think, some of you drink that stuff! Think I'm kidding? Next time you pop one open pour a little into a bowl and place a dirty penny in it, come back a few hours later and see how clean it is now!

It has been said in this thread that the Azenis are a very good autocross tire for dry days. However, what is equal to them for wet days?

Good catch mperdue!! I have been lurking on this thread since the very first post and was wondering how long it was going to be until my name was mentioned. :classic: I will get one posted in the next day or two, I have been having some computer issues that are preventing me from uploading any pix from my camera right now. Maybe I'll look through some recent ones and see what I can come up with.

This causes me to have a question. I have an F54 block with flat-top pistons that I want to put an N42 head on, now I know that there is no problem with that. The potential for a problem is that I want to then put on an N36 intake and SUs. Will this work as a direct bolt on or are there modifications to the head that must be made?

Lookie maw, no hands....or brains!!!

Ok, I got it done!! Over all it was quite easy...but I'll explain more here. 1) Place wheel chocks at fron wheels, jack the rear of the car up and rest on jack stands. 2) Pull rear tire and get a trouble light (makes it MUCH easier to see). 3) There are four muts/bolts behind the wheel that hold the half shaft to the wheel and four nuts/studs at the other end that hold the half shaft to the diff, you must undo all of these. 4) Remove the four bolts from the wheel end and move the half shaft so that you can then pull it straight out away from the diff and off the four studs on the diff mounting flang. I had a hard time with this and used a pry bar and hammer to break it loose then it just pulled right out. 5) This is where it got really easy, I took the half shaft to the Z Clinic and had the owner replace the u-joints while I watched, it only cost me $50 and I saw what needed to be done to do the others when the time comes. The first hand education was well worth the $50 to me! 6) Reinstall is the reverse of the removal. I used antiseize on the nuts/bolts/studs to make it easier to remove next time when I replace the diff (some of them where rather difficult to remove). 7) Test drive and enjoy. No more noise!!

Have a junk yard do a parts locate for you. What you are looking for is the front diff from a Datsun 720 4x4 Pick Up that was manufactured between 1/83 - 6/83. This was the only time that there was one made, so as you can see they are tough to come by but they ARE out there! I just got one myself a couple weeks ago. I came from Arkansas but this was the only one in that state. I looked in the South Central and mid-West area of the country and found several but may were over priced; as in $300 wich for some, at least, included the entire rear end...chaching! there goes your shipping price and these places were not willing to sell only the diff, you had to take the whole thing or nothing at all. I see that you're in NC, I do recall there being a couple in AL.

Another way to find where the water is coming in from is go to a drive thru car wash and sit there watching it to see where it is coming in from...then after you have found it not only do you know what needs fixed but you also have a nice clean Z. The car wash is good because there is more force behind the water and you will see all the spots that will leak even in the worst of thunderstorms.

Depending upon the size of the sub you want to put in you may be able to have a box between the seat backs and the verticle wall of the hatch area (where the tool storage is on the series I 240Z). This would certainly be hidden and you are guaranteed to "feel the bass!" I figure that a pair of 8's would be about right, or maybe you could fit a single 10" in that area; I'm just working from memory on the size of that area and have never measured it.