texasz

Why not just go with an L28 instead of trying to bore out an L24 to this size? It would probably be cheaper, easier, and yield better results especially if you go with a modified P90 or stock N42 head on the F54 block. In fact the L28 can be bored to a 3.1 and has been done many times. This seems to be a good powerful setup. Just a thought...

I am seeking an R180 3.9 diff for my autox 240Z. If you have one that you would be willing to sell please contact me with condition, price, and shipping to 78613 (central Texas). I'm looking for one in good shape, not one that needs new gears nor one that has been welded/locked or molested in any other way.

I have the rubber kit from VB and it came with two tubes of the black goopy stuff. My car does not have the outter seal, only the inner one that goes all the way around the hatch opening. My questions are how do I attach both the inner and outter seals to the car? And does anyone have any pix of the outter seal (the horseshoe shaped one) so I get the installation correct? I will also be replacing the hatch window seal but already know how to install it...unless anyone has any additional tips (other than install the chrome trim before installing the window into the hatch, use silicone spray to help lube the seal so that it installs easier, use weadeater line to 'pull' the lip around the hatch wrapping it 3 times or so around the seal, and of course having an extra pair of hands to help so that I do not break the glass).

Thank you 2many, again you are a wealth of information. Slightly different question...Is there a casting code or something on the R180 that indicates it is an R180 and not an R200? This would need to hold true for all the R180s since I'm seeking one that is not from a Z. I'm looking for the 3.9 R180 from the front of a 1/83 -6/83 Datsun 720 4x4 truck.

GREAT!! Thank you, now I will know what to look for when searching for a 3.9 R180 in the junk yards.

I have read a lot of posts talking about oversteer and understeer. What do these mean???

Can anyone tell me how to read the ring stamp to tell what the ratio is on an R180?

At a glance the reserve price of $5000 seems to be much too high. They are listing 88250 miles but this could be 188250 or even 288250, it's hard to tell (my odmeter reads 59000 but I'm quite sure that it's over 100000). This car is not even a series I 240Z. Mine is a series I, needs some work but only cost $1500. He also has it listed with power steering and power breaks...not unless someone has done some modifications to the car it doesn't have these things. Just my 2 cents worth.

Not sure about the overseas models but you probably have found an R200 and not an R180. The R180 is stock in a 240Z (US market at least) and to go to an R200 you must also change the stub axles to the ones used in a 280Z which had the R200 in them stock. Hope this helps...that is if things are not completely different for the cars you got over there.

Crap! That's a great find!!!! I wish I had found it, I would very much like to start my car set the hand throttle and let it warm up while I go do other things. Cruise control...NO, not for me; just to warm up the engine.

It doesn't look that bad from your pix. Is it in a dry part of the southwest...like Arizona? That would help keep the rust to a minimum. It all depends upon how much he's asking for it.

I've been looking around and ST makes a 1" front and a 3/4" rear sway bar only. The ones that MSA sells are 1" front and 7/8" rear but these are the kind that many do not like since you have to drill the chassis to install them. Does anyone one else make/sell sway bars for the 240Z? EDIT: I did just call Quickor and they make a 1" front for $189 and a 7/8" rear for $179 but can not tell me if you just drill the chassis at all to install. Sounds like a small company, lacking a bit in the knowledge and customer service side. Any other places?

For Z cars the names to know for parts are as follows: Victoria British (commonly know as VB) - www.victoriabritish.com Motorsport (commonly know as MSA) - www.zcarparts.com Zed Findings (great for floorboards among other things) - www.datsunzparts.com Midwest Z - www.midwestz.com Z Parts - www.zparts.com Z Therapy (THE place for rebuilt and performance carbs, etc) - www.ztherapy.com Z Barn - http://zbarn.com Among many, many others who's links are located in the 'LINKS' section of this site. The ones I have listed are probably the most popular from what I can remember at the moment (if anyone is missing please do not be offended it's late, I'm tired, and I'm working from memory only). Along with companies you can also keep an eye on the For Sale/Classifieds/Buy, Sell, Trade/etc forums on the many Z car websites out there. Welcome to the group and enjoy your Z!! This is the nicest most helpful Z site I have found yet! OH! About your initial dash question...Your dash is probably available from MSA. Or you may consider having it recovered my Dashboard Restorations (they have a forum on this site as well as a company website). They currently have about a half dozen or so dashes belonging to members of this forum (it was a group deal).

Ok, so then my '77 5-speed would be considered a type B and will be ok when/if I get a short shifter. That's what I figured from your previous description. Bummer! I will just keep my eyes open for one.

Hmmmm..... I'll have to think about that one first. I suppose that even if you go back to the stock sway bar you could still mount it this way so you would not need to go back to the old way of mounting. Is a 1" or 1 1/8" front and 7/8" rear a good combination? How will this change the handeling of the car and what else should I know about before making my decision? I will be autoxing the car next year, this is why I'm looking into this. Update!! The seller just sent me the correct pic of the rear sway bar, the one above is incorrect (it is of the front that he no longer has). Here is the correct pic for the rear sway bar. Still the MSA model.

Just looked at the one that is for sale and from what has been said here this is nothing more than a stock, unmodified stick. Here's a pic of it.

What mods are required for the front so as not to damage my car?

Additionally, what are the years for the A and the B tranny in the US market?

The one labeled front is huge! It's 1 1/8" dia. So it would not be recommended to use something this large. Ok, I have not bought it yet and now will not. What is the largest recommended size 1" or what? The one labeled rear is also one I'm looking at buying. It is claimed to be from MSA. Is theirs the one that you have to drill to install? If so then what is the recommended one for the rear?

2many you rule!! That would be perfect!! I'm looking at what is being advertised as a short thorw shifter and want to make sure I know what I'm buying first.

And is this a rear sway bar for a 240Z? UPDATE: This is not the right pic, please see later post below for the correct one.

Is this a front sway bar for a 240Z?

Ok, does anyone have the measurements from the piviot point to the top and from the piviot point to the bottom of the stock shifter?

This is generally what I thought with one exception. I would think that if the stick were shorter it would eliminate this problem and if it were longer then you would have to lean forward to go into and out of 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. Your circle example show has this would support what I am thinking. Please let me know if you just mis-typed this or if there is some important part that I'm missing.

Hey Nikon, what happened to you? Do you still need this manifold? Please post here to let everyone know.