texasz

When where these remanufactured? How much use have they had since then? Sounds like all that's missing are the pads to start using them. Is this correct?

The price is very right, R180 4.11 for just under $100 SHIPPED!! :classic: :bandit:

Here's a pic of the outside of the diff.

Here is a pic of the inside of a diff I am looking at buying and I'd like to know if it appears to be in good shape?

Zmefly, as I understand it this is a direct bolt on upgrade. No modifications or other parts are needed. Is this correct? I am just trying to confirm this before I spend money since you mentioned spacers and the fact that "it is mad to work with your eixsting rotor". Can you please clarify this? Oh! Also, do you have the master cylinder available? If not I'm sure I can find one but if you have the right one in good shape that wold be cool.

The car with the least amount of BAD rust/rust through is probably the best starting point.

Well I have 440 some odd posts, almost 500...and that's since I registered in only Jan. of this year! I am interested! But had a couple questions. Are these the Toyota 4Runner S12 calipars? Will they fit behind 14" wheels? Do I need to change the master cylinder or proportioning valve? If so do you have these also?

Still trying to find out where in SA you are located. I could have come by and taken a load of this stuff from you this past weekend. Please let me know where you are located. Also, are you still giving this stuff away?

The show is nearing and the club needs voluteers to help staff and judge the event so if you are interested contact them about it...and enter your Z while you're at it.

Well, I have had only one person say that they want any, at least at this price so it looks like a group buy will not work. However the good news is that the seller is a place called MidwestZ and have also recently become a member here and said that all members of this site get a 10% discount in this thread.

Anyone have any information that they can share about the service manual by autopress? I found one for the '70-'71 240Z for sale and want to know if it's a book worth having at a price tag of $26 + S&H or should I pass on it?

Interesting again...if you are talking about the summer/winter switch on the front of the air cleaner housing mine has that as well and my car was produced 8/70. I have no idea where it was originally shipped to and sold but it's in Texas, and the previous owner lived here too. *shrug*

That is an interesting observation. I have a series I and my door locks are on the top of the door. It looks like these were at one time but they have been plugged and one has been added behind the arm rest if I'm not mistaken.

Holly cow!! Your cam broke!? What car was that in and what other damage was caused?

For those of you who are in or near central Texas there is a Z car show coming up on Sept. 20 that you may be interested in attending. Here's some info. 5th Annual Texas Statewide Datsun/Nissan Autoshow

You may try contacting SCCA_racer, he had lots of suspension stuff last time I saw him. He's a member here but I have not seen him post lately, though he may be lurking in the shadows.

Wish I lived near you, I'd take to whole lot.

N5572B, see this thread where 2many has kindly provided us with a listing of what diff came in what vehicle. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1568&perpage=15&pagenumber=2

You're on the right path I think. If the starter will not crank the engine (all you get is silence or the clicking sound) then you have a problem with the electrical. Could be a bad starter, a cable may be grounding on the chasis somewhere, bad coil (I know it's new but I have had a few things that were new be DOA), etc. I would not consider the plugs or gas in the chambers since the engine is not even cranking. I'd keep working the angle you have been and maybe someone else here will have a better idea of what it is than me.

The dilema is that I could get a used R180 4.11 now for about $100 including shipping. Or I could wait and look for a 3.9 and the junkyard 720 4x4 is the route I was going to go. We all know what finding parts in a junkyard can be like :stupid: so I'm just trying to decide and needed some advice/info/help.

The dash showed up cracked and with puncture like dents in the dash mat that were not there in the pix the seller sent me and I have talked with him and he said that none of these were there when he boxed it up. It is really sounding like they will not pay, especially since it was not padded properly...even though the seller asked when sending it and they told him that it was fine and would not be damaged the way it was. mdbrandy, since you are sending it for restoration I would not worry too much about the shipping there (any damage will be repaired any how) and when they return it they say that they pack them well so there should be no problems on the return trip either.

mdbrandy, good about that but NOT good about the condition that the dash showed up in! :disappoin Currently trying to get a claim filed but it looks like I may be screwed...!@#$%@#$% USPS!

2many, I saw that one last week also but that was out of my price range. FWIW the guy got no bids on it so I'm sure that he still wants to sell it and he may be negotiable on the price now.

Ok, I've been through the calculator at http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ and I have also read up on the charts on http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/6117/datsuntransmittionratios.html Now what I'm trying to determine is what is the noticable difference between an R180 3.9 and an R180 4.11 in a 240Z with an F54 block, N42 head, and a '77 5-speed? Will I notice any difference between the two diffs? I will be autoxing the car and also an occasional weekend/weekday drive for fun. Please do not say that these ratios are not available in the R180, they are but they are just hard to find.