texasz

The keys on eBay look the same as the ones I have for my Z. I own an early '71 (production date of 8/70) so yes, the very early Z cars did use these keys. I can post a pic of my keys when I get home tonight if that will help any.

What do you use to clean the spark plugs? I need to do mine.

I know that there were changes to the dashboard over the years that the 240Z was made. Did any of those changes involve in ANY way the glovebox? I need to know so that I know what years I can take the 'box' part of the glovebox from to replace mine.

I need the inside of the glovebox for my 240Z, I have a VERY early '71. If other year models work that's fine, but I need the actual 'box' of the glovebox. This seems to be some type of paper/cardboard material and mine is trashed. Used and cheap is good as long as it is intact, new is ok too but I have not found anywhere that has them. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!

My intent is to put the following set up into my 240Z: L28 engine F54 block with flat top pistons P90 head Carbs (most likely round top SUs) '77 5-speed tranny R180 3.9 diff From the research I have done this seems to be the best route to go without really getting into some work and money (i.e. V8, turbo, EFI, etc).

I like it, great color! I also wish I knew where this car was, it has Texas plates...I'd love to see it in person.

As some of you may remember I found my Z by just driving by it and leaving a note on the window asking if they wanted to sell. Well this worked out quite well for me as it has been now sitting in front of my house for about three weeks. I cam home last night to see a note on the window and thought that maybe someone was complaining about it being parked in the street. Upon looking at the note it was someone with the same idea as me! He just happened to drive by it and left a note asking if I wanted to sell. I just spoke with him and he's a wonderful Z enthusiast (sp?) who has owned three Zs in the past. He's not actively searching but if one comes up he is prepared to jump on it. So he is looking for a '70 (and ONLY a '70) model in Texas. If anyone has one or sees one for sale let me know and I'll pass the info on to him. It is not my place to publish his email and phone number on the web so just let me know and I'll contact him. Thanx!! I just thought that this was quite funny, I wonder how many others have done this.

How much would you want for the outside door handles and the in-door mechasims attached to them all the way up to the inside door handle? Does the hatch strut hold the hatch open? If so how much would you want for that?

Well, since I never got a reply to my PM on 6-11 I'll just post my needs/questions here for you. How much would you want for the outside door handles and the in-door mechasims attached to them all the way up to the inside door handle? Does the hatch strut hold the hatch open? If so how much would you want for that?

I agree!! Ad-Ware is the thing you need to resolve this. aaw.zip

Check your PM...

What were the carbs you replaced with the DGVs (round tops or the original crappy flat tops)?

landmizzle, Please post a link to the information, it does sound interesting and many others may be interested in it (I know I may be).

The question here isn't what is stock nor what could be in the car, it is how do we identify what is in the car (i.e. casting codes, etc). [EDIT] Sorry if this seems harsh. Stress and having dealt with too many incompetent people lately has shortened my tolerance a bit and overall made me a little frustrated. I'm certainly not talking about anyone here, it's people at work. Like mperdue politely says below, I should have just kept my mouth shut and waited to hear from other people. :disappoin My bad, please ignore my above statement.

Good question! I'd like to figure out which tranny and diff are in my car too.

I would love to but I'm not sure when I'll have the car running properly, it all depends upon what it needs and of course how much it will cost.

To get the window crank clips off I used a slightly bent clothes hanger. I have not gotten to putting them back on yet as the repair is waiting on parts still.

hmsports, Thanx for the URL, I was thinking that I would end up paying nearly $200 for one from MSA or VB. I will just get one from Racer Warehouse! kmack, Lowell Marx brought up a good point. Does the bar you have your belts attached to meet the SCCA guidelines?

Hmmmm......ya think?

I got the seal kit in Friday. Now I need to know about the silicon spray that I read about in another post but can not find now. There was some good advice on installing a windshield (I think) and using something like weekeater line to seat the rubber seal and spraying it with some kind of silicon instead of soapy water as silicon will not cause rust and the soapy water may not completely dry and could cause rust. *sigh* Now the question! What is this silicon spary and where can I get it?

Just this weekend I was going to troubleshoot the rough idle and discovered that the car has an electronic ignition too. Things just keep getting better (as long as the mods were done right).

Louvers are a non issue for me as they are being removed from the car when I replace the hatch glass seal which came in the mail this past Friday.

Kmack, If you come across another deal like that PLEASE grab it!! I just live up the road from you and would like a 4 or 5 point. Did you fab the bar that they attach to behind the seat? Is this an easy thing to do?

Just a thought but you may want to check to make sure that your spare tire is still fastened down. When you hit a bump it will bounce and make a clunk sound when it lands.

I have not had time to mess with any adjustments yet but I have noticed that it also backfires and bogsdown a bit when you press on the gas (I noticed this when it was "cold", as if 95F outside is cold). Anyone got any ideas what may be wrong?