texasz

I would love to but I'm not sure when I'll have the car running properly, it all depends upon what it needs and of course how much it will cost.

To get the window crank clips off I used a slightly bent clothes hanger. I have not gotten to putting them back on yet as the repair is waiting on parts still.

hmsports, Thanx for the URL, I was thinking that I would end up paying nearly $200 for one from MSA or VB. I will just get one from Racer Warehouse! kmack, Lowell Marx brought up a good point. Does the bar you have your belts attached to meet the SCCA guidelines?

Hmmmm......ya think?

I got the seal kit in Friday. Now I need to know about the silicon spray that I read about in another post but can not find now. There was some good advice on installing a windshield (I think) and using something like weekeater line to seat the rubber seal and spraying it with some kind of silicon instead of soapy water as silicon will not cause rust and the soapy water may not completely dry and could cause rust. *sigh* Now the question! What is this silicon spary and where can I get it?

Just this weekend I was going to troubleshoot the rough idle and discovered that the car has an electronic ignition too. Things just keep getting better (as long as the mods were done right).

Louvers are a non issue for me as they are being removed from the car when I replace the hatch glass seal which came in the mail this past Friday.

Kmack, If you come across another deal like that PLEASE grab it!! I just live up the road from you and would like a 4 or 5 point. Did you fab the bar that they attach to behind the seat? Is this an easy thing to do?

Just a thought but you may want to check to make sure that your spare tire is still fastened down. When you hit a bump it will bounce and make a clunk sound when it lands.

I have not had time to mess with any adjustments yet but I have noticed that it also backfires and bogsdown a bit when you press on the gas (I noticed this when it was "cold", as if 95F outside is cold). Anyone got any ideas what may be wrong?

cmottley, you have a PM

Thanx guys!! I'm in the process of buying the one that supports our site here. :classic:

How much are you looking to spend and what condition must they be in? I know that new ones can be purchased from VB.

Thank you Gav. I have read that site many times, this is one of the resources which lead me to the P90 head. I have been fairly confident in that decision until I began seeing many people here talk about the N42 or E88 being better to use.

What's the difference between the CD sold through this club and this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6762&item=2418912048 Also how can one get the CD now-a-days?

SoCalZ, Is there any special reason your fuel lines are wrapped up?

Posting pix will help answer some people's question as well as show off those nice wheels you have.

Really? I remember reading that putting a 4 barl. on these does not make them run very well. Reason being is that cyl 1 & 6 tend to run too lean and cyl. 3 & 4 tend to run too rich; or something like that. It has to do with the design of the intake and where the carb sits. After seeing a pic of the intake I can understand this as the carb sits right on top of the pipes that go to cyl. 3 & 4 and there's a ways to travel to get to cyl. 1 & 6. Now keeping in mind I'm far from knowedgable, thus my question; this is only what I read.

Yes, I have read that the P90 and P79 are almost identical except for the exhaust ports, on the P79 they are round with those little sleeves in them and on the P90 they are square. The other difference that I remember reading is one you already sighted about the P90 breathing the best of all the heads. What mods would have to be made to the P90 head to make it better? You said big $$$, I will have to contact someone locally to see how much it would cost but have to know what to ask to have done first.

I remember reading somewhere that the L series engines did not run so well on down draft carbs. Yes many people has Webber DGVs which are down drafts and the car runs very well. The SUs are side draft and that's what came stock on the car so maybe Datsun knew this when the cars were build. Is there really one that is type that is best for these engines? Is there one carb that is considered to be the best for the Z cars? Or does it really make any difference as long as what ever is on the car is properly sized and tuned?

My new orange '71 (8/70 production date) shows 59xxx miles on it. But I hardly believe that is all that's on the car. Try more like 159xxx or 259xxx miles. The odd part is that on the odometer the first number seems to be even with the other numbers. I thought that after they rolled over the first number sat higher than the other numbers. *shrug* I don't care how many miles are on it, it's mine, I love it, and I'm keeping it.

Ok, you say that the F54 block is the block to have as many others have also said (seems to be an agreement on this)...good, I got one in the garage. You then say that the N42 head is the head to have, others have said this as well. However, I have also read that the P90 (NOT the P90a) head is the one to have. What's the difference? Why does there seem to be a debate on this? Which one REALLY is the better one to have? I do still want to be able to drive my car on the street, but want the best performance I can reasonably get without spending a fortune.

I completely agree!! I would love one for my car but don't have the bucks for the book. The only issue is copy right.

Just curious, but what would happen if you didn't run premium gas in a 10:1 ratio car?

Sorry for my typo, that should have read RICH! I will edit to correct...