texasz

WOW, and mention of Cybersanford (eBay seller) too...I've not see that name in many years.

Is this what you are looking for?

I just wanted to verify something before placing an order. I'm needing these: https://zcardepot.com/products/water-hose-nipple-intake-bypass-connector-oem-240z?_pos=68&_sid=780dca1dc&_ss=r Per the description these are for numbers 19 and 22 in the diagram. Would this also not be the same part for number 20 in the diagram? Or is that a different one for some reason?

That's perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Does anyone have a good picture of the rear driver side of a 240Z engine showing how the rear engine sling and water bypass are mounted? I've searched all over the internet and the closest I could find was something Arne posted in 2009...it just did not quite show what I'm after. I believe both of these go on the rear most intake/exhaust bolt/stud though I'm not sure which order they install in. I am thinking that the water bypass is first and the engine sling is second. Please help me verify.

Welcome back @=Enigma=, good to see you on here again. As for others I remember, KMack, escanlon...oh man my memory is failing me at the moment. There were so many regulars.

Thank you for confirming what I thought to be the case.

Thank you for confirming what I thought to be the case.

I was at the local Z shop yesterday for something else and talked to the guy who basically was saying the same thing. Because of the overlap you'd have to decide which piece you want to save unless you were able to undo the spot welds (if in fact they were spot welds). I'll go read up on that other post.

There was a request for pictures. In the first 3 pix I think that the lead fill is in line with that seam on the inside of the hatch area. Is that correct? I could not tell even after sanding off the layers of paint/primer. Also, in the last pic you can see rust along the top edge where the windshield seal was. Is that a deal breaker for people who would want to use the roof skin?

Yes, my primary goal is to salvage what I need. I figure I can sell the roof to someone who needs it so I wanted to attempt to not screw that up in the process of pulling what I need. I'll have a look at this next time I get out there to work on it.

I have a shell that I'm about to cut up for parts to save other cars. I will not need the roof and will be putting it up for sale. Where should I make the cuts for this piece?

Why is that?

Um, correct me if I'm wrong. The seller set a reserve, the minimum price that they would be willing to sell for. The high bidder got close just not quite there. BAT is covering the difference to hit the reserve. What should the seller care who is paying them, they got their minimum price...had the high bidder hit the reserve would the seller still be refusing to complete the sale?

That's just a keychain, that style was popular back in the day. Here's one of that style for sale with multiple pictures: https://www.jjshouse.com/groomsmen-gifts-personalized-elegant-vintage-leather-keychain-sold-in-a-single-piece-258288090-g288090?country=US

I have installed a wide ratio 5-speed transmission from a 1977-1979 280Z into my 1970 240Z and want to verify which gear shift I should be using. I'm thinking it is 4, 5, 6, or 7.

I see what you are saying. One thing about the 'use up the old parts on the manufacturing line' explanation that I wondered about was why not inventory those in the parts department for consumers/body shops/etc. to buy. Having not been there I just have to rely on those who either were there or simply know more about it that me. Thank you for your reply.

I truly do respect your knowledge on these and have found you be to a wealth of information over the past MANY years. Could you please share your thoughts on why several of the cars built after the body changes such as the pillar vents and tool storage would have still had some of the early componentry such as steering wheel, ashtray/center console, valve cover, and other items commonly associated with the earlier production cars? I genuinely would like to learn the reason if not what I described above (which I have picked up over the years from many sources, and seems to make sense); I was not there so I only know what I have learned on these forums and other internet sites over the years. This is the approach I was taking above, specifically with the pillar vents and the tool storage. These are things that clearly signify a change.

Do you have pictures of how this part is installed?

I believe that the change over date has to do with the body and modifications to it. As mentioned, the tool storage change for example. Also, the rear vents moved from the hatch to the pillar. These are all things that required manufacturing tooling changes and would indicate the change from what we commonly refer to as series 1 vs series 2. The other parts mentioned such as transmission, hatch glass (defroster changes), steering wheel, etc. are all "bolt on" parts that they continued using until the supply was depleted on the manufacturing line as I understand it from everything I've read over the years. We really cannot use those "bolt on" items as a clear indicator of when the change occurred.

I finally got around to sliding back under the car to take pictures.

No clutch needed, I have a new one. I just need the fan itself, thank you for verifying. 🙂

Well I just searched my parts and I do not seem to have any other fans (I really thought I had an extra or two). I would like to see about getting a correct fan from you please.

Yes, this IS something I paid specific attention to when installing it.

I've done some poking around on the internet and it appears that the quick, easy visual difference is 7 blades for the earlier ones and 8 for the 280ZX fan. And yes, based upon this and what people have said here it appears what I put on the car is a fan from a 280ZX. 😞