texasz

I would avoid that guy! Search Facebook and you'll find he has his own personal hate group...not everyone can say that. 😉

Oh crap, I missed that...I Googled Houston Z Car Club and that was the first result and did not think to dig deeper. Please forgive my error.

You may also want to check out the Houston Z Club, https://www.zcluboftexas.org/ They have a Sponsors page on their site that may be of help as well as the Links page, if all that fails maybe see if there's a way to ask that group as I'm sure someone in there can give shop names. If you want to bring it to Austin then go to Austin Z Clinic https://austinzclinic.com/ and Kevin will take care of you.

I was thinking the same thing on #2, AC tensioner pulley.

Nope, I would think that it would be too bright and make it difficult to see.

Hmmm...I'm not sure. These are OEM though, in the first picture you can just see the corner of the Nissan logo on the sticker (red arrow) and the second picture I just took of one of the ones I received from them a couple months ago.

$67 here: https://zcardepot.com/products/engine-motor-mount-oem-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=5&_sid=d972a746c&_ss=r

Also if using a computer just right click on the link on the left and select 'open in new tab' then you can copy the URL from that new tab which will be a link to the specific page. Thank you Carl for creating and continuing to maintain this site for SOOOOO many years, I know I have used it since around 2003 or so. There's a TON of great content on it. I will agree about the technology being dated, use of frames on websites was a big thing for a while. For a site that is free, no donations requested, and completely run by one person it still does the trick. I can see why work has not been put into the technology as that is time consuming and a never ending story as technology is constantly changing. As long as frames continue to be supported by modern browsers I think it's fine the way it is. There are other Z sites built on old technology though still contain a wealth of valuable information...Z Therapy (https://www.ztherapy.com/), Datsun 3.1 Stroker (https://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/), and Bryan Little's Z Garage if you can still find it...just to name a few I can think of off the top of my head. Oh wait! I just found Bryan's newest iteration (at least the 3rd URL I've found for it, the oldest being geocities) of his site and it is much more modern than the old one (https://datsunzgarage.us/).

Bump... Looking for input on the above mentioned NISMO electronic fuel pump please.

I removed that panel yesterday without removing the tire, it was actually quite easy (the car is up on jack stands so maybe that helped make it easier to remove the panel with the tire still on).

What great timing on this thread!! I just pulled my tank yesterday.

The over riders were an option for sure. The bumperettes may have been an option, I'm not certain. I can say that they were available in '70 given that my 08/70 in my garage has them.

What about this NISMO one? Any thoughts, opinions, or experiences with these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/660122143-NISMO-High-Flow-Volume-Fuel-Pump-Electromagnetic-Piston-Type/133371205206?fbclid=IwAR0s4RwbojHnmGp909LiAy0DsYpQ1Uf2GGgz6GwwNcQZj0h-MCvJy-0O7YQ

I know that this may be a long shot, I need to get in touch with an admin from Hybridz.org to help me access my account. Long story...short version, I cannot access my account, it must have an old email address so password reset not working, no public link to get help on the site. So if you are an admin over there please contact me. If you have an account over there and can help me get in contact with an admin please let me know. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. 🙂

Nice looking color.

The Maxima was also known as the 810. "The name "Maxima" dates back to 1980 for the 1981 model year when the upscale 810 sold as the "810 Maxima" in North America."

To add to what has been said already, rust/corrosion will cause resistance in the circuit which can result in the issue you described. Start with the easy test, drop in a shop/garage or place like Batteries Plus or auto parts store and have the battery/alternator tested. If those both test to be in good condition start chasing down resistance in the circuit by cleaning up connections...start with the ones most likely to be bad like the ones on the outside of the car like @dutchzcarguy mentioned. There can also be corrosion on/in the fuse box as well as the switches on the steering column. When going through all of these connections and cleaning them make sure that there is good contact and that they are tight also.

Agreed on the jack stands!! Mine are certainly NOT from Harbor Freight. 😉 Thank you everyone for your input. Looks like the Pittsburg from Harbor Freight is the winner.

I've got to say I'm shocked at all the support for Harbor Freight jacks on here! I've always been VERY cautions what I buy there, yes cheap...and that's part of the problem. I'll buy one time use items, of things that are pretty much the same everywhere (i.e. tarps, bungie cords, etc). A jack is a serious thing though, I'm trusting my autos and body parts to a jack and was looking for quality and reliability. From what everyone has said on here is seems that the jacks they sell have both. @Jeff G 78 and others, do you have a specific make/model you suggest (aluminum please)?

Ya know, for some reason that does sound familiar now that you mention it. By the way, I got my gasket at Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/power-brake-booster-gasket-240z-70-73?_pos=1&_sid=a87c129e3&_ss=r And it worked great on my new 8.5" booster for my 240Z with this adapter (the one I mentioned above). https://zcardepot.com/products/power-brake-booster-7-240z-70-73-new?variant=29688152359025&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0MD_BRCTARIsADXoopa0Kt5nGMc-Hi_GfRzjOkysLppxy9-0NLqie2PblZqFrMIS1kUwYOgaAr3dEALw_wcB

I just put an 8.5" in my 240Z and did not see any real differences between it and the original 7" except for the obvious size difference and bolt pattern. I did not want to modify my Z so the mounting studs on the 8.5" booster were cut off and the adapter mounting plate from Z Car Depot was welded on, this also allowed me to use the rubber gasket for the 7" booster.

Ah I see. I'm not sure who may have that or if it exists. I'm guessing you have checked the usual suspects... https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/ https://www.totalzparts.com/product-category/datsun/240z-260z-280z/ https://www.datsun-garage.com/ https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping https://zcarsource.com/rubber-pieces-kit-240z-260z-70-74-new/ https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic03a14 https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/weather-strip-seal-rubber-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx?page=2 https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/rubber https://www.datsunparts.com/Rubber-Parts http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-rubber2.html You may also check with https://www.240zrubberparts.com/ though I did not see one on his site it may be worth asking as he may be able/willing to make them. Short of all that you could always buy a sheet of rubber and cut your own. I hope something here helps you.

Does your '73 have the holes in the firewall for the 8.5" or the 7" bolt pattern (they are different)?

I recall reading somewhere recently that he hand makes the parts and even though the website may show out of stock if you contact him he will make what you need.

My Craftsman 2t floor jack started leaking and not raising a load a while back so I bought a rebuild kit and replaced seals and all earlier this year. It's leaking again and not raising a load properly, time to dump it and get a new one I can rely on. So I have found a couple and would like to hear your opinions. Both are weigh in at about 50-51 lbs. and have a lift range of 3.5 to 19.25" JEGS Professional Low-Profile 2-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack Arcan 2-Ton Quick Rise Aluminum Floor Jack