texasz

I removed that panel yesterday without removing the tire, it was actually quite easy (the car is up on jack stands so maybe that helped make it easier to remove the panel with the tire still on).

What great timing on this thread!! I just pulled my tank yesterday.

The over riders were an option for sure. The bumperettes may have been an option, I'm not certain. I can say that they were available in '70 given that my 08/70 in my garage has them.

What about this NISMO one? Any thoughts, opinions, or experiences with these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/660122143-NISMO-High-Flow-Volume-Fuel-Pump-Electromagnetic-Piston-Type/133371205206?fbclid=IwAR0s4RwbojHnmGp909LiAy0DsYpQ1Uf2GGgz6GwwNcQZj0h-MCvJy-0O7YQ

I know that this may be a long shot, I need to get in touch with an admin from Hybridz.org to help me access my account. Long story...short version, I cannot access my account, it must have an old email address so password reset not working, no public link to get help on the site. So if you are an admin over there please contact me. If you have an account over there and can help me get in contact with an admin please let me know. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. 🙂

Nice looking color.

The Maxima was also known as the 810. "The name "Maxima" dates back to 1980 for the 1981 model year when the upscale 810 sold as the "810 Maxima" in North America."

To add to what has been said already, rust/corrosion will cause resistance in the circuit which can result in the issue you described. Start with the easy test, drop in a shop/garage or place like Batteries Plus or auto parts store and have the battery/alternator tested. If those both test to be in good condition start chasing down resistance in the circuit by cleaning up connections...start with the ones most likely to be bad like the ones on the outside of the car like @dutchzcarguy mentioned. There can also be corrosion on/in the fuse box as well as the switches on the steering column. When going through all of these connections and cleaning them make sure that there is good contact and that they are tight also.

Agreed on the jack stands!! Mine are certainly NOT from Harbor Freight. 😉 Thank you everyone for your input. Looks like the Pittsburg from Harbor Freight is the winner.

I've got to say I'm shocked at all the support for Harbor Freight jacks on here! I've always been VERY cautions what I buy there, yes cheap...and that's part of the problem. I'll buy one time use items, of things that are pretty much the same everywhere (i.e. tarps, bungie cords, etc). A jack is a serious thing though, I'm trusting my autos and body parts to a jack and was looking for quality and reliability. From what everyone has said on here is seems that the jacks they sell have both. @Jeff G 78 and others, do you have a specific make/model you suggest (aluminum please)?

Ya know, for some reason that does sound familiar now that you mention it. By the way, I got my gasket at Z Car Depot. https://zcardepot.com/products/power-brake-booster-gasket-240z-70-73?_pos=1&_sid=a87c129e3&_ss=r And it worked great on my new 8.5" booster for my 240Z with this adapter (the one I mentioned above). https://zcardepot.com/products/power-brake-booster-7-240z-70-73-new?variant=29688152359025&currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0MD_BRCTARIsADXoopa0Kt5nGMc-Hi_GfRzjOkysLppxy9-0NLqie2PblZqFrMIS1kUwYOgaAr3dEALw_wcB

I just put an 8.5" in my 240Z and did not see any real differences between it and the original 7" except for the obvious size difference and bolt pattern. I did not want to modify my Z so the mounting studs on the 8.5" booster were cut off and the adapter mounting plate from Z Car Depot was welded on, this also allowed me to use the rubber gasket for the 7" booster.

Ah I see. I'm not sure who may have that or if it exists. I'm guessing you have checked the usual suspects... https://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-nissan/240-z/ https://www.totalzparts.com/product-category/datsun/240z-260z-280z/ https://www.datsun-garage.com/ https://zcardepot.com/collections/weatherstripping https://zcarsource.com/rubber-pieces-kit-240z-260z-70-74-new/ https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic03a14 https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/weather-strip-seal-rubber-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx?page=2 https://www.zeddsaver.com/collections/rubber https://www.datsunparts.com/Rubber-Parts http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-rubber2.html You may also check with https://www.240zrubberparts.com/ though I did not see one on his site it may be worth asking as he may be able/willing to make them. Short of all that you could always buy a sheet of rubber and cut your own. I hope something here helps you.

Does your '73 have the holes in the firewall for the 8.5" or the 7" bolt pattern (they are different)?

I recall reading somewhere recently that he hand makes the parts and even though the website may show out of stock if you contact him he will make what you need.

My Craftsman 2t floor jack started leaking and not raising a load a while back so I bought a rebuild kit and replaced seals and all earlier this year. It's leaking again and not raising a load properly, time to dump it and get a new one I can rely on. So I have found a couple and would like to hear your opinions. Both are weigh in at about 50-51 lbs. and have a lift range of 3.5 to 19.25" JEGS Professional Low-Profile 2-Ton Aluminum Floor Jack Arcan 2-Ton Quick Rise Aluminum Floor Jack

I just rafted part of that river in WV this past July! It was amazing!! 😄

Very nicely done and a great option when wanting the appearance of original. For anyone reading this and wanting more strength in this area Bad Dog Parts (https://baddogparts.com/) makes a nice place to help reinforce this as well, especially if a larger sway bar has been installed. Now there are options. 🙂

Thank you, those really do look useful.

Update....I have brakes!!! Short story, I managed to get the Z up to the local Z shop and get some help. There were a couple things working against me, there was still some air in the master cylinder that I had not managed to get out and probably much more impactful was that the rear wheel cylinders were not adjusted out far enough to properly engage the drums. As he explained, if the shoes are not making proper contact with the drums then there is no pressure in the system and thus bleeding cannot happen...once explained it was like a DOH! moment as it made perfect sense. 😉 So it is back in my garage now and ready to move on to the next part of the project. Yipee!!

Can you please elaborate on this? What is it and why would someone want one?

@Zed Head, as I recall a welded diff is good for straight line racing...anything with turns and it is not so good.

Did some further investigating on this today. I attempted to bleed the fronts and was getting air then fluid flowing through the fronts. I then turned my attention back to the rears and still nothing...no air, no fluid. Since I was already back there I thought I'd crack the line before the proportioning valve (mine is in the rear) open a little bit to see if there was air/fluid at least getting pushed that far through the system. Unfortunately I was unable to loosen the nut, I did spray all of them back there with some penetrating oil before putting things away for the day. Everything in this area was bone dry though so no leaks there. I also felt around the fittings under the master cylinder and the distribution block under it to see if there was any leaking there and it all seemed to be good.

Field??? I'm starting to think that they are pulling crap off the bottom of the ocean! lol

When installing the master cylinder I test fit and adjusted the rod until it no longer depressed the piston at all when installing the master cylinder (it just barely touches the piston). This allows the piston to fully disengage/close when the brake pedal is released. Reason for just barely pressing the brake with the master cylinder out of the way was I just wanted to confirm that it was moving and I am not 100% sure that pressing it all the way would not have caused problems (after reading about people's challenges with the reaction disc I'm probably just being overly cautious). I've read that bench bleeding the master is not required, while many do recommend doing so. Not doing that would just push more air into the lines right? What about using the bleeders on the side of the master (as I described in my first post)?