texasz

@yarb, Oh I know the item...there is nothing about the length unfortunately. If they are unwilling/unable to provide pre-sales support to ensure customers get the right stuff I'll take some of that business elsewhere and save some money in the process (i.e. these lines will be bought elsewhere). There are still some items I'll be buying from them, I just won't be spending as much with them as I initially planned on. 😞 So really my questions remain....

From memory they did not, though it's been several years since I researched this. As I recall I replaced mine with Spicer u-joints that do have a grease fitting.

@Yarb, unfortunately ZCarDepot has been completely non-responsive for the past couple weeks...I had a few questions before placing an order and it's been radio silence. 😞 They seem to be fine at getting orders out the door once placed (I've ordered from them a few times since March), the issue seems to be in their lack of communication on pre-sales questions. I've even found their phone number and nobody answers and no option to leave a message.

For those of you who have replaced your 240Z soft/flexible brake lines this question is for you! I'm replacing with braided stainless lines and was asked for the length. On the rear this is easy enough as I can just measure the original ones, unless someone has a reason to get a different length. On the front however it seems this is a little different...I've replaced the stock calipers with the Toyota 4-piston ones and from my understanding the new brake line should run from the connection point on the body directly to the new caliper, soooooo how long should this be? Is there any real benefit to having swivel ends on the lines and if so where (i.e. front and rear, both ends, just the body side, just the brake side, etc, etc)? FWIW I'm ordering Apex lines.

Welcome! I had a quick look in a couple of the registries and did not see that VIN listed unfortunately so it's hard to know what may have come of it.

That's great information S30Driver. This leads to the other part...which booster should I be looking at installing? IF the 8.5" is the way to go then my next question...does anyone have one they recommend? How about anyone with experience with this one? https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-1969-1972-8-5-inch-brake-booster-upgrade-kit?variant=2376693317641

From everything I've researched if I keep the rear drum brakes stock and upgrade the front to the Toyota 4-piston calipers then I should also upgrade the master cylinder to the 15/16 one from a 280ZX. Question #1, is this accurate? When upgrading the master cylinder to the 15/16 one it seems that this is a direct bolt in upgrade. One thing I have found is talk about the master vac (booster) also being something that some people upgrade. Issue with this is that as I understand it the 280ZX (10") will not fit due to the clutch master cylinder (at least without some modification/fab work). I have also learned that there are TWO different sizes that came in the Z, the 7" which is what is in my car and the 8.5" in the later Z cars. This all brings me to my next question...I have the 7" booster and plan on doing the 15/16 master cylinder upgrade, will be 7" booster be ok? What are the pros/cons of keeping the 7" booster?

View Advert Tokico 15/16 Master Cylinder WTB: Tokico 15/16 master cylinder from a 280ZX. Advertiser texasz Date 10/08/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 19801983 Model 280ZX  

Agree, body color. I feel like black makes the engine bay too dark and thus more difficult to see things (including leaks some times), I've always thought body color looked more finished. 🙂

@siteunseen, that's some great info you linked to...especially the pictures and first hand experience of swapping the hard lines from one side to the other.

Fair questions and excellent points @Zed Head. To clarify, I'm alright with these not being "original" though I do not want it to be janky and forced to work because I'm being cheap (I hope that makes sense). Nor would I want it to be a safety issue because it is not the right (functionally) part. One thing that may impact some of the discussion on the lines is that I've been planning on installing some braided steel hoses. I'm not sure if that replaces the hard lines you are talking about or not. Does anyone know this? The two parts you listed have nearly the exact same part number as what jfa.series1 listed...W96879 vs WC96879 and W96878 vs WC96879.

Thank you @jfa.series1, have you used these on your 240Z?

I just checked Rockauto and both brands they carry are out of stock. ? Anyone got part numbers of ones that will work? I can search around for them that way.

So is the real difference between the proper ones for the early cars and the ones that can be made to work from the later cars a difference in the location of the brake line attachment? Is that why a new brake line needs to be installed?

@26th-Z, so does that mean that owning a 1970 I'm stuck with my only replacement option being the very expensive OEM Nissan units?

What is the REAL difference between the OEM Nissan rear wheel cylinder that places like MSA, Z Car Source, and Z Car Depot sell for $260-325 and the aftermarket ones that these same places as well as others sell for $50-70? Is the OEM Nissan unit REALLY better? Better enough to command that much more money for them???

I'm looking for a header and curious what to buy. If you have hard fast scientific data on why one is better that would be great! Otherwise, opinions are welcome as well. ? I've got two on my current list and know that there are others, looking for equal length coated... Arizona Z Car MSA

I have a 1/71 production date 240Z that has major front end damage so I'm shopping around for a front clip. My question is what differences are there between the different years and when were those differences? Example, I'm looking at a 6/71 build and wondering if there were changes made from 1/71 to 6/71? My 1/71 has all the expected series I items such as the latching fuel door, no vents in the rear quarter/pillar, etc.

Yes, the color in the picture you posted does look to be incorrect. I've looked at a couple of sources and also my own Z (paint is for crap on mine) and 918 is more orange that that picture looks. Here are the sources I'm talking about... http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-stock-paint-and-interior-colors-us-and-canada/

View Advert Datsun/Nissan L28 Engine Here is a long block for a Datsun/Nissan 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX. This is an N42 block and N47 head. Per the previous owner the block was rebuilt and never ran, to some degree I believe this since the piston tops look very clean and the head gasket appears to be brand new. However, Kevin at the Z Clinic feels that there is too much fore/aft movement of the crank and warrants a closer look. I'd assume it will need a quick once over at minimum. Also included is a flywheel, alternator, and front pulley (all in the condition I received them, surface rust). For an additional $200 I'll include the 4-screw round-top SU carbs that I got with this engine, they are partially disassembled for rebuild (just as I received them) and an E48 intake manifold for them. Local pick up and cash sale please. Advertiser texasz Date 07/27/2020 Price $500.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Sold for $1300, a bit more than this would cost from ZTherapy and without the wait (they are backlogged 4 months last I talked to them).

The location on the side of the block where it is seems like a poor location. Every time one changes the oil it seems like it would make a huge mess all down the side of the block, starter, etc.

Has anyone done an oil filter relocation on an S30? If so do you have pix and the relocation kit you used? I thought that there was a kit for the Z though I was not having much luck finding it nor pictures of people who had done this to see where the filter's new location was.

I'm replacing the engine so I will have access to the header and would like to check the exhaust system for leaks. I was thinking that I would plug 5 of the 6 ports and blow a fog machine down the 6th port and watch to see if fog comes out anywhere from front to rear. Is this a bad idea? Would the fog from a fog machine damage the muffler? Do you have a better way to test for leaks?

Quick question on engine and accessory paint colors...I know that the block is a blueish green which can be bought from Bansai Motorworks. The real question is how much of the engine was this color? Like was the alternator mount this color or different? How about the AC mounting bracket? Oil pan? etc, etc, etc. If these and other items were different colors then what color were they? Pix would be great as well. Thank you in advance!! ?