texasz

May be a good idea to post the info, I'd be interested in reading it.

Please don't hack up and destroy a series I car, especially if it's mostly original and numbers matching. As for price, the others have said it...we do not know enough about it to say. If it's got good mechanicals and no rust it's a good deal, even with a few mechanical issues or a little rust it's a good deal. If it's got a dead engine and tons of rust then it's not a good deal. Then there's everything in between. Get back to us after you've inspected it with you findings and pix.

Dave (aka: Zs-ondabrain) may have some valuable input on this as he has done extensive work with the lighting for our Z cars (i.e. relay setups for the headlights etc). Dave, any thoughts/input?

I have to rebuild an engine and I have some decisions to make. I have a rather early 1970 240Z engine (it's a spare that I'm using as the foundation of my rebuild). I am on a 'no money' budget of course, who isn't these days. With that said, I want the most bang for my buck and am not out to build a monster engine...that will come later when I have the money to throw at an engine. This engine has an E31 block and E31 head. I can do a stock rebuild on this and call it a day. Or I can pick up an N42 block locally for $50 (includes crank, pistons, rods all disassembled) and build from there. The condition of any of these parts is a question mark. They may be fine, the either block may need bored out, or some parts may be scrap metal. I also understand that the head must be rebuilt replacing the brass valve seals with steel ones (if I recall correctly); this is not optional since the brass will not tolerate unleaded gas. I have used a couple Z engine calculators to determine compression ratio. That's all well and good though this does not tell me what I'm interested in knowing. What kind of HP and torque can be expected from either of these...well mostly the latter since the former is a stock rebuild for the most part? Aslo, is there anything else I should be considering?

Most all the engine parts from 1970-1983 (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX) are interchangeable. There are some obvious exceptions such as pistons since they are of differing sizes, etc. Though this is not written in stone since you can alway bore a block for larger pistons. In short to answer your question, yes you can do this.

You mean: E31, E88, N42, P90, P90a = Square port N47, P79 = Round port Also, if the head is original to the '83 and it is in deed a P90 variety it's going to be a P90a. What's the difference you ask? I'm glad you asked...the P90a has hydrolic lifters. From everything I have ever read you do not want the hydrolic lifters. Do a search on this topic and you should find plenty of reading material to keep you busy for a while. Also for what it's worth there were two different versions of the E88 head made, I believe that the better version was original to the '71 and '72 cars while the less desireable one came on the '73 cars. Again, do a search on this topic and you'll find more detailed info. One good resource is Bryan Little's Z Garage site: http://datsunzgarage.com/

Agreed, this is who I would suggest also. Todd sold me my set a few years back and he was GREAT to work with!! Also agreed, the Holley conversion is crap!!! The design of these engines requires 2-3 carbs for optimal fuel delivery. Period. It's simple physics and don't let any hardcore Holley person tell you otherwise.

I failed to mention that I'm using glass beads from Harbor Freight in my cabinet so it's a very fine media that a screen may not work for. I'll be awaiting to see the outcome of Will's tests. Dave, so to put this in you removed the glass put this in then replaced the glass over it? I'm also quite interested in this water filter idea, I've never seen one before and would love to know more about the construction of one once you two have completed your tests and refined the design.

Ok, I know that this is an old thread...though instead of starting a new one for the same topic I wanted to retain the knowledge shared in this one already. I'm looking for ideas on protecting the 'window' on my blast cabinet. Will has already shared the cardboard idea and then there's this one too: Do you have a link to what you bought? This is all I could find: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=252& Also, how does this material adhear to the window? Also, if anyone else has any ideas I'd love to hear them. I need something! One idea I had was clear contact paper, it's available just about anywhere including Walmart. The thing with that is that it would leave a glue residue when it is removed...I'd prefer something that stuck to the glass via static, that would be ideal.

I was just on the ZT site late last night and noticed that the DVD comes with the rebuild kit so that may be the route I take after all. I'll see if there's any discount, you never know unless you ask. Oh, and some comments got me thinking so I went back and re-read my original post and I now see how one may have thought I was asking for a copy of their DVD. I was actually asking if anyone had the DVD that would be willing to let me borrow it. My wording was a bit misleading since I used the word copy...my bad guys.

Thank you both for such a complete answer. I suspected as much about too small a gap, it was the larger gap that I really was unsure of. Once again, Dave you have really helped me. Your explaination of the stronger coil, higher economy, et al is GREAT! I had never known those things before. You can bet I'll adding this to my (very long) list of things to do to my Z. JohnnyRock, also interesting about plugs like the split fires...I thought that the spark hit both at the same time. I didn't realize it only hit one. See, you can teach an old dog new tricks. :laugh:

Ok, I know that plugs have to be properly gapped before installing. My question a two parter and is this: What happens when a plug gap is too small? What happens when a plug gap is too large?

I'm pretty sure that borrowing something then returning it is not copyright ingringement. I'd rather buy the DVD than another VCR...they probably cost the same! That's if anyone is still selling VCRs, I know they went out of production a year or two ago if I recall correctly. Than again maybe that's like the digital TV conversion...it just keeps getting pushed back, and back, and back, and.... Anyhow, looks like I'll be buying the DVD. I was just hoping to put that money toward the parts I need to get the car running properly...money is tight and the economy sux. Oh well, it is a good investment...just one I wanted to make in the future instead of now.

Well it seems as though the question has been answered...plastic it is and always has been. Just for the record, since I said I'd post pix of mine here they are. Both of these are after some media blasting on 1/2 of the item (will be very obvious). I'll have to check out the Nissan dealer and see what they want for one.

I'll post a pic of the one I have tonight. This is why I was asking, because if the metal was was not even the original then I'd certainly not spend the time restoring it. If it were the original and they are NLA I would. If you are referring to this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SEIC04A/12-4271 then MSA is the most expensive I've seen it anywhere. $30 for the tray only!!! :eek: Black Dragon has a good price on everything except the frame: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=117 Banzai Motorworks has the best price for a one stop purchase: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ and click on Catelog on the left then on Battery in the top center of the screen Heck, someone on eBay is selling the tray for far less than MSA. Lesson learned, shop around for your parts.

Jeff, that would be great if you could. Shoot me a PM with how much you want and how to get it to you. That's interesting. It appears a bit large and out of place in the Z though. The question I have is what/how does this attach to the car? I see that is sandwiches around the battery calmping it between the two billet pieces though I just don't see where/how it's attached to the car to keep the whole thing from flying in to the side of the engine.

So the metal is the original design. Is that what you are saying? Where are you finding them? I have not seen anyone selling anything other than the plastic ones.

You interested in supplying the pieces? I could always get someone local to weld it up. I really like the tube you added for the J bolt, great enhancement to the design (I'd want that version of course).

Does anyone have pix of the original battery tray? Were they alway the plastic ones with a drain tube like what is available today (like the one Z Car Source sells here: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/53912/catid/7674)? I have a series I car which has a metal tray (it "had" some kind of coating, like rubbery plastic or something), it has I believe it's 6 places in the bottom where there are + shaped openings/holes. Was this OE or some aftermarket piece? I'm trying to decide if it's worth restoring or scrapping, it's VERY rusty and will require a TON of media blasting to clean up then lots of effort filling in all the rust through. When all that's done I could finaly finish it off with POR15.

No kidding! Make a dozen and sell 'em.

bump... Seriously, nobody has this DVD?

Just one more idea, I had a parts car where the head was already removed and I needed to pull the lower end and tranny. I took either a chain or strap (like a tow strap or something), I can not remember which, and ran it down one side of the block through the center of the motor mount under the engine through the center of the other motor mount and up the other side of the engine and connected both ends to the hoist. Worked like a champ!

Call Jerry at All Z Car Specialists in Ft. Worth. He'll have what you need!

Does anyone here have the ZT Just SU's DVD, the one that walks you through rebuilding the carbs, that I could bum a copy from? I have it on VHS and of course no longer have a working VCR.

Yours would be one of those transitional cars mentioned in an earlier post. They used the parts until they were gone then went to the new part...that's been my understanding from many dscussions here and on other sites over the years. Hence the mixture of newer and older parts on many of the 1971 Z cars.